Forgot to mention - based on my experience with batteries, I would have done a load test with the meter on the cell and took a meter reading immediately upon disconnecting the load. The reason being that batteries recover voltage after load is disconnected and that happens over time, so best indication of effect of load on a battery is right after the load is disconnected. Thanks!
If I understood everything I watched, you had warning on the dash of the car and the battery would not charge. You found one cell that was about 1 volt lower that all the rest and you replaced that module. I am surprised that one cell, down 1 volt, would give you a failed battery indicator. How many miles where on the car and were you the original owner? Where did you buy a replacement battery and cost? Can you give us an update on how it is now performing? THANK YOU VERY MUCH! This has been an education, thanks to you.
Good video. Whoever designed this battery layout could have easily made cell replacement easier. It would have been good to measure voltage under load, as it would give you an additional data point on cell health. How many miles did the car have on it when you got check light?
It appears to be a cheap and complicated version of the Lansky. I have used the Lansky system for about 10yrs for both my kitchen knives and hunting knives as well. Much simpler and really easy to use. Suggest you look into it.
I have a diagnostic obd2 machine that allowed me to look at every battery pack cell and while test driving I could see pack 7 discharging very low. While in drive and foot on gas pedal it would jump to 16-17A after sitting for a while it would jump down to 10-13A that bank is the problem. But I recommend a whole battery pack replacement!
You went through all this labor to determine one cell was bad, and how old were the batteries? isn't it better to get all new batteries based on the life than replacing just one, and then going through the whole thing again within 6 months? It would be like replacing one battery in a 3 battery flashlight and expecting it to give you the same service life.
We purchased my wife's 2008 Prius with 315,000 miles... at 382,000 miles, I took the hybrid battery out, to service it, because I noticed it would at times jump from full to low battery.. not often, but it would on occasion. After opening it up, I noticed the battery was a reconditioned/serviced battery... a lot of marker writing on all of the cells... so this goes to show you, that a reconditioned battery can last at least 7 years... I could have just left it in and waited for it to eventually fail. I'm in the process of servicing the battery and will replaced any bad modules, but so far I haven't found any bad modules... but only about 20% of the way through the process. I have 2 hobby chargers, which both combined, allow me to test/recondition 8 modules at a time. The bus bars were a little dirty, but not terrible. Cleaning those up to be like new, so I should be done in a 10-14 days. I work from home, so I only have to go check on the progress a few times a day, to write down measurements for capacity. So... again, done right, a reconditioned battery can last for a very long time. It all depends on condition of the battery, how the car is driven and the expertise of the person servicing the hybrid battery.
Hello sir ... thanks for a nice video ... I have gone through a tough time this month ... I purhased a second hand japanese made Toyota Axio Hybrid Fielder 2014 in last December. This car had a Nickel Hydride battery installed in it and that too has a cell replaced. I have been told by various technicians that to repalce the battery with a used one but of latest models. Hence I have purchased a used battery again but this time Lithum of 2020 model of a toyota hybrid car. The reason was that the newer ones are too expensive. I want now to test the old and a newer battery myself. What tools do you recommend or do you use? Please let me know so that once for all I satisfy myself and many others too. the tools such as volt meter, battery capacity tester, battery charger, battery balencer etc. thanks in advance sir.
If replays on bank battery car w'll run 6 mouth after car w'll the same problem . One guy replays with new one bed battery on camry after 6 mouth problem coming on again
voltage not important , CAPACITY IMPOTENT , after this voltage . You can see how work battery on scanner OBD . Bed battery then charge show over voltage , then car stop charging on bed banks voltage drop then normal banks .
People about what you see on social media... You notice that this guy does not have on the proper PPE if you follow him you might get fried.. never never work on a hybrid system without the proper PPE
I've seen a bunch of videos on the Toyota hybrid pack. The other videos used a more professional method with a charger to cycle discharge/recharge at predefined loads to see the charge capacity of the battery cell. It shows the cell's ability to hold charge after an applied load as well as it its ability to recharge within a fixed time period. Both charge and discharge capability of the battery cell are looked at. It was definitely really slow as DIYers would take days testing the entire pack. This video's method seems less accurate. It could have been just plain lucky that a bad cell was found because it had a really low voltage. Well, its good if it worked in the end.
I’ve seen a bunch of videos with trolls but I’ve never seen any value come from a troll. I guess what I’m trying to say is his video is more valuable than your comment.
