Co-founder of LAMACA Handmade Axes lamacaaxes.com/ and student of axe science. I find axes incredibly interesting and have lots of them. More coming all the time. I'm hoping to help people appreciate quality axes and have fun using them.
He broke the law alright. The law of human decency. Which this creature knows nothing about. He wanted to be in the spotlight and he didn’t care how inhumane it was.
Ok, so if you decide 13 mm is what you want, then THAT determines your angle, yes? But if you want 25*, then THAT determines how far in from the edge your filing will go,yes? Where IM going with this, is ; I have a son-in-law that is a fumble-bum with sharpening,understanding cutting, woods-lore. So, it seems the first method would be safer for him, and it seems it will still produce the bevel that will get the blade sunk in deep in a log. But Ive never done the sweep method; its never occurred to me that it would even work! If I ever saw a kid doing that, I would stop him and show him the right way, the way you have been demonstrating in this video. MY great son-in-law, is a leader in TRAIL LIFE, and is sincere about making lore like this a real thing that is crucial to know! But he is struggling to be proficient in the prctical use!
Cacchio sei bravissimo, non so come questo messaggio verrà tradotto, spero bene , comunque, hai fatto interventi che l hanno modificata parecchio a livello visivo ma volevo chiederti questo, l impugnatura in legno rispetto ad una impugnatura di fibra di vetro è migliore o può dirsi un suo equivalente? In particolare le vibrazioni che si ripercuotono sulle mani ? Se devi fare un lavoro di poche ore 2/3 come massimo , ti ringrazio ti auguro tante belle cose 👋👋
Thank you, thank you, thank you! This video was extremely educational for me. I just got a cheap hatched from harbor freight to do use as a beater and to learn sharpening with before I try and maintain my expensive stuff.
I don't know how much there is too it but I've heard of shock absorption. The saying is that Ash absorbs the shock into itselfe by being more flexible. I am a stone mason and in every hit we do the stone isn't flexible, the steel isn't either so it leaves the wood and your Hand to give in. And you want the least amount of shock possible in your Hand. Although our malets are made of white Birch. Apparently it tip toes the line between hard enough, Light enough and flexible enough.
If you want it blue, polish the hell out of it. If you want it black, leave it rough. Since I want my axes to have the hammered forge look. I leave them rough.
Do remember, felling and bucking is only one part of the equation. Splitting is another part and splitting puts a tremendous load on an exe because of overstrikes. Ash could just break off and throw a head while a stronger hickory would just split.
You can bet axe manufacturers have done that testing and they balance longevity verses cost and hickory has wine out. Everything, these days, is based on cost. Engineers do not run companies. They are run by the finance department. You can understand that - if they do not make money, they go out of existence.
They say hickory produced in Missouri makes the best axe handles. I can tell you hickory is tough. I cut down five a few years ago for a friend with my chainsaws. They were about 25” in diameter. They were a load for my MS 360 and 440.
I have used axes for most of my 79 years and any axe handle that I have broken was my fault. Hickory is a strong, dense wood. Facts don’t lie, but liars don’t figure.
Most people used what they had. Hickory or ash predominate, but oak is fine if that is all you have in your location. I would not use any softwood because it is to prone to splitting. You are right - chainsaws killed the axe industry but economics and politics played into their demise. We only have one American axe company still in existence - Council Tools. I have several of them.
You have to polish any metal you want to blue. The better the polish, the better the blue. Steel wool has oil on it. You must degrease it before using.
I am a gunsmith. Ran a firearms company for over 30 years. You are correct, you need to remove all grease from any metal before bluing. I found Brownells cold bluing gave me the best finish, but for the best finish I used caustic blue. I could replicate old Winchester rust bluing, so they told me.
Everything that is done right is time intensive. I used EvapoRust on my about 200 year old broad axe. I scrubbed it with BRILLO, afterwards. I left my broad axe in EvapoRust for a total of 48 hours, scrubbing it with BRILLO, after 24 hours.
Wow awesome job! Have noticed with linseed oil if you oil the afternoon before, in the morning it can still feel a bit damp, if you chuck it in the rack in the back of the ute then drive, even a couple km up the road at only 60ks a hour it seemed to dry it out a little
