You mean 50000 not 5000 for the dif oil. I paused the the vid and looked at the lid. Also did you try it in the other difs? I like the tray mod you did to keep it clean and is there one you can buy or do you have to make one? Cheers
Hi mate. Nice video and I've just bought one today...where do you actually put the washer? Directly behind the wheel or on the plastic where the wheel attached too
you talk about everything but the best upgrade, the centerbrace. Did you bolt it right in the existing places or did you have to make stuff to bolt in? The firewall was made of an old protein-tube? Brilliant as the car itself is....
On the DR8 I would not go higher than a 15t on the standard wheels to be honest. It is so fast and just uncontrollable but you get awesome air control. I am back down to 11 now after increasing the wheel size
@@none-qq9lg 2 up from stock is 14t and this gives a noticeable speed increase and probably makes 4s seem like 6s while not pushing your electronics too hard
I would recommend 300K for the center diff. I used 500K before but it was difficult to drive in a straight line until it thinned up over time. 300K will stop the blooming of the front tyres and give more power to the rear.
Hi mate just watched your video brilliant mate. And by the way what did you use on the body clips was it string and last of all on the front to stop mud going in to the truck what rubber was it and where too buy thanks 😊
Hi, I used some orange string I found somewhere and some heat shrink to cover the knots and give I nice finish. The mud guard was cut out of a tub from some powder for the gym but you could use Tupperware I suppose.
@UK Small torque hi mate just a update I finished my ftx dr8 the body clips are done so has the servo arm left up a bit with a washer. But not sure about this front mudflaps what do you think I could use and it's cheap enough 🤔 let me know thanks 👍☺️
Just got mine and went straight onto 6S... wow it’s MENTAL! been driving a WLtoys and for it’s size 30mph seems quick enough but I can handle it flat out in the street. The DR8 is far too much and really needs more space. I’ve noticed the rear hubs have a bit of slack. Might have to put some O rings / washers in. Where would you begin looking at alternative body shells? Just go with anything 1/8 scale and make your own holes for the mounting posts?
Big jump from a WLtoys😃. It’s not a track tool so don’t expect really tight tolerance’s but may just need some nipping up but carefull not to go too far. I would just order a 1/8th shell as you say but remember that the skeleton shell is part of the reason it’s so durable.
Best way to clean your rc's is to spray them with gt85 then dry it off with a handheld blower(about£18 on ebay) I also give all mine a light spray on the arms/hubs before i run em.
where can I purchase an aluminum lower brace. I broke the plastic one on my first run, spent 3 hours making a new one out of 3mm aluminium with just a 5 inch grinder, pair of pliers and a round file and did the trick for a fixup. Now I see you can actually purchase them. Im in Australia so if you know any places I can get one from for a spare would be much appreciated. By the way, love my new toy.
great advice , i have done most of these mods you suggested . Maybe also put some rubber under the motor as i heard it slams into the chassis and can bend the motor mount or magnets come loose inside the motor . I have done your chassis mod, i put black plastic in the underside of the shell to act as a mudgurd , i have a metal rear /rear suspension arm mount on the way too . Just need some good weather !
@@uksmalltorque5563 I am glad you said that because I have a 301cc or 8hp and have been waffling back and forth between 30 series and 40 series but it’s hard to justify $300 for the 40 series when I can get the 30 series for $75. If you have been on with 13hp then I should be just fine.
@@toddfoxx7233 It really depends on the load its under, so the greater the weight, the taller the gearing and the more hills you climb the more likely it will burn out. My kart is light and my track is flat so its fine.
Unfortunately the ones i found exploded very easy and they sent me a second set that did the same so i would not recommend them. Currently they are locked out with bars and with a bit of air let out of the tires it is bearable. I have a new front end from a quad that i intend to fit after my house extension is complete.
How did the diff oil change work out? Ive been reading that 10k front and centre and 7k rear is a good starting point. God knows why they didn't state the diff and shock oil viscosity in the owners manual!!
To be fair we were all really impressed with the absima as we felt originally there was too much plastic. Broke a diff cup but that’s it so far and I don’t take it easy.
@@uksmalltorque5563 it seems you get a lot more for the money with the absima than the 3s arrmas. How did the diff cup break? Was from a crash or did it just break by itself from putting power through it?
Not bad really, I don’t expect it to be anywhere near as strong as my DR8 but it has done pretty well on the jumps but not ran it that much to be honest. One of the diff cups split but that is probably more of a casting issue than a bashing one so I’m impressed so far.
Hey bud cool vid man great details. I have the team associated db8 and it looks very similar. I am hoping my bud gets one of these. I was going to ask how it holds up and you said it is a bit of a tank haha love it man. New supporter here my UK 🇬🇧 brother 🙌🏼🙌🏼👊🏼
Hi, I bought aa Absima torch 6s but want to use the stoke cover, it looks beautiful. My question is : being that the torch is a truggy,( I recon the only difference between both of the cars are the wheels and the arms,) what happens if I use buggy wheels on a truggy? Gotta look cool at least, but is it drivable? Or do I have to use the arms of the stoke? P. S - do not use MT wheels or youl burn the motor... I bought the Robitronic Razer 8 4274 2200kv. It's powered by hobbywing, basically a cheaper hobbywing. I run the truggy on 14 and 18t pinion gears. A beast. Completely destroyed a 15t pinion like it was butter, I've never seen anything like that before. Enjoy the buggy it's beautiful. Liked and subbed.
Yeh, I reckon that would look good and the wider arms with the buggy wheels would make it really stable for fast cornering. The only thing you have to consider with interchanging wheels from the same chassis cars is the gearing as it will be over or under geared depending on the change.
@@uksmalltorque5563 any advice? I would like to run it on 22t one day, but might have to byu TP motor.. 2300kv 6s 80.000rpm. If I understand right, the buggy wheels are lighter and a but smaller so I think I can gear it up?
@@didgeteria9068 it’s more to do with the current draw from the ESC, the taller the gear the harder it will be to reach its maximum speed and the more Amps mean more heat and going too far will cook things. Stick the info into an online calculator and it will spot out a top speed but the way to know if you have gone too far are the temperatures of the motor and ESC after use. You can get away with a higher potential top speed on road but if you go too far it will hurt your pocket and may be undrivable.
@@uksmalltorque5563 I'll probably stick to using 14t with buggy wheels and 22t with foam wheels for speed runs... Thanks man 👍👌 Friendly regards, didgeteria
