Videos about woodworking, woodturning, CNC-work and organising a small woodshop. There are no plans, it´s just to inspire you, so you can make your own design or change mine to the dimensions you need.
Things I do could be dangerous. Don´t do these things just because you´ve seen me doing it. I don´t always follow all safety rules.
About me: I´m an architecture student from Germany, I´m 26 years old and working with wood since the age of six.
To see previous pictures and content that´s not a video follow me on Instagram: instagram.com/holz_flo/
Hi, can’t give you a reliable number. I made this before Covid, when Steel was quite a bit cheaper.. but than I paid about 700€ for steel including the tabletop.
There is no precise line between the two. In general milling is with higher torque (bigger spindle) and more precision but slower speeds. Routing is faster speeds but less torque only small router bits no big cutterheads. Since the robot is able to mill concrete and stone and we have big cutterheads I’d call it milling.
Yes I’ve thought about it when I purchased them. But in the end I did it like it was original. The bearings are sealed by the housing pretty good. The housings also have greese nipples to greese the bearings, that would be impossible with sealed bearings.
By “welding” the bushing, aren’t you technically warping the bushing (concentricity) itself? (of course extremely slight but still…) Thanks for posting!
Yes you’re right. If I had build a high precision mechanism this would have been definitely something to care about! But in this case it is no problem at all.
These trousers are not meant for work but for outdoor use. But I still love them for work as well! They are made by Fjällraven and named „85785 - Karl Trousers“ I got these in their outlet in Sweeden. @Fjallraveninternational
Well.. it's a jointer planer with 61cm width. There is no brand or model number on it, so I can't tell you exactly. The previous owner told me that it was bought by his uncle immediately after WW1. But it's handmade from cast iron and in fabulous condition.
The robot is pretty expensive but that's mainly because it is designed to mill concrete. You could use a less expensive robot for only wood. The milling time alone was about 8 hours total.
Thanks for the answare 🙂 Cool. I am in concact with kuka now. Waiting for tham to bring me a price. But do remeber rufly what the price was for the robot, software, and the router/spindel? ❤
I have the same mag drill, mine never gets enough grip, even on 10-12 mm thick plate, clean and all. I think it is a poor design, a friend bought a new of the same, same issues, it defeats the purpose. They have another magdrill, a Chinesium, it holds so much better
Great project and a very excellent video. I have purchased the plans and just started gathering the materials. Can you tell me what the height of the gantry is when it is lowered to its lowest point and raised to its highest point? Thank you.
Thank you! These sizes depend on the castors you use. But with the casters I have mounted, at its lowest setting the gantry fits underneath a 2m high door. So its highes point is a little lower than 2m. You can raise the ganty about 1.15m so up to 3.15m. I hope this helps your question. If you have further questions, let me know.
Hi Mike, I'm using the RA-50 ST. But I have to say I'm not very happy with it.. The bar has quite a lot of play in the bearing. This may be a reason too, why my less powerful drill gets stuck. Besides this it is okay. I'm thinking of replacing the bar one day..
@@HolzFlo thanks so much. I need one of these machines but I didn't want to spend huge amounts of money. If you have any other model that you could recommend I'm going to see it.. thanks!
I notice that you are using TIG for all your welding on this project. Awesome, less smoke and spatter. I assume the material is mild steel with some minor mill scale. How much cleaning and prep do you do, and are you using pure argon?
Yes that's true, I've done that mainly because I didn't have MIG available. I would prefer MIG welding for this project. Even though it's nice and clean to TIG it all. I've cleaned all the surfaces with the angle grinder and a flap disc before welding. For TIG I use pure argon.
:D probably.. We were lucky enough to get the plywood for this project sponsored by Carl Götz. Anyway this students project wouldn't have been possible with a different material.
Beautiful machine and meticulous restoration work! Very nice! However, you should replace that cutterhead with a modern knife-and-gib model or a segmented one. Those clamshell heads are ticking time bombs due to a design flaw with the screws that can lead to the cutterhead throwing the knives. Just ironic they were originally called "safety" cutterheads.
Hey Matthew, thank you for your concern! Yes you're right these cutter heads are not ideal in terms of safety. I plan to upgrade the head with a carbide helical cutter head at some point. (these are quite expensive..) I'm currently building a full cover for the cutter head also for dust extraction which should add a lot of safety.
@@HolzFlo Good plan! Yes, those helical heads are crazy expensive for what they are, but no amount of money can undo the potential damage one of those clamshell heads can inflict. Plus that carbide will last you for years or even decades without having to completely change the inserts (depending on if you're a hobbyist or pro). In the next 3-5 years I'm looking to upgrade to a bigger jointer. I want to go for an old Oliver 166, either a 12 or a 16 (but no smaller or bigger), and for the most part those come standard with a knife-and-gib head. They really don't build them like that anymore and you can often get them for a lot less money than buying a brand new (and not as good) model. It's good that they don't normally have a clamshell head on them as I REALLY don't ever want to have to change out the whole head (too time consuming and expensive for me).
@@GamingDrummer89 Yes, didn't dig into it jet.. But I think there are suppliers where you can get this helical heads custom made to fit your planer. Yeah these old machines are built very nice! I expect this machine to last my whole life, so I think it's worth it to put the money into a better cutter head at some point.
@@HolzFlo Yep, there are suppliers like that. Usually people go with a Byrd Shelix cutterhead. They're extremely expensive (especially custom built) but they have 4-sided carbide inserts that will outlast steel knives, on average, a couple or three dozen times over. Plus they're easier to reset than regular knives and cut much more quietly and don't tear out nearly as much on tough grain or figured woods. There are several other companies that do the same type of thing but Byrd is the one I see people upgrading to the most. Good luck! As for me, unless the particular jointer I end up getting happens to already have had a helical head installed, I'll just stick with the knife-and-gib head and skew the fence at an angle to get a shear cut. I'm probably going to just get a thickness planer already equipped with a Byrd Shelix head and if I do happen to get any tearout on my jointer's regular knives, I'll just plane the opposite face and then flip it back over and run it through the planer to clean it up.