Bro this shit stopped working for two years until I found this video 💀💀 I got tired of not being able to use this old laptop so I’m super glad I stopped being lazy and did this. You’re the GOAT 🙌🏻
Where did you get that? Did you get enough subscribers to have RU-vid send it to you or did you buy it somewhere? if you bought it I'd like to know where because I want one.
I got an email from RU-vid in May, inviting me to sign up at the Rewards Hub (with a unique code, so it looks like it's invite-only). I signed up a few hours later and this limited edition light was on there as a free gift. I went for it, it arrived a few days ago. I expect some will find their way onto eBay soon enough.
@@AintBigAintClever I'm just worried about scams. I won a CO2 powered salt gun from that company that makes those salt guns you shoot flies with and I was skeptical until they messaged me on FB messenger saying I won their caption contest so I gave them an address and they sent it out. Got it a few days later but haven't tried it yet, not enough bugs to shoot.
Just got an 06 Honda CR-V that has one on it. Looks like a dealer addon. I'm thinking I can just disconnect the battery terminal wire to stop the drain without harming the car. Thoughts?
👍 Is it IBM-compatible (Apple II)? Are games played on it? Run a couple of games on it. Are there color modes? Is it possible to change the video card on it to a better one?
So they can just get away with calling a plastic tube full of LEDs "neon" now? That's just _wrong_ but I guess nobody cares? It's neon-ish, neon adjacent, but it's _NOT_ neon so why call it neon? It has nothing at all to do with neon other than a vague resemblance. It's like neon with no "soul." I LOVE (real) neon and I think it's a shame for this imitation stuff to get away with hijacking the name. The phony neon stuff ("phoneon?") is indeed cool in it's own way. Sometimes it can even change color. It deserves its own name. But... I guess it's just another example of the _"bandwidth limited"_ way so many people engage with the world around them. It's "close enough" for them, you know, like homophones: "Meh... sounds the same so who cares witch [Sic] word you use."
And this service is called You"Tube" despite most of us watching it on flat screens with no vacuum inside. And we follow "channels" despite not tuning a circuit to a specific part of the electromagnetic spectrum before watching. And we "subscribe" despite not receiving a single item in the mail. And we "comment" without uttering a single word with our mouths.
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! As only a moderate-level user I had to watch this video about 7 or 8 times, going back over and over some portions, but I finally got it to work! I am using an 8 year old Macbook Air that works fine and I see little reason to upgrade as long as I can get done what I need to. I run OSX El Capitan 10.11.6 because that's all it will take. (I was told I could have a tech force a newer OS but that I might lose functionality. No thanks.) I just back this machine up and will upgrade when it gives up the ghost entirely.
Thank you for this video! I have problems with my Wifi USB-Card from time to time. It works most of the time but if it doesn't, it keeps disconnecting every couple of seconds. I already downloaded a driver from the manufacturer's page (mine is from Maxesla), but that didn't seem to help. I tried reproducing the steps in regedit, but didn't have ForcedUSBMode or the following ones. After downloading the driver from the description, those entries are now there. If the new driver didn't fix the problem already, I know where to return to. :)
Not every clock looks like that bad. Here i have this which circuit is not same to you it has two circuit. 1 is on the top, and another is on back. But the body design is same to you
Mine connects to usb 3 but is still slow, the internet only works on a 2.4ghz connection too, if i connect the the 5ghz it connects with no internet, is this a driver issue?
That's an odd one. Does it connect properly at 5GHz if used at USB 2.0 speed? Worth trying different drivers, worth trying on a different computer if you can.
Hi - Just been given a metrohm so your hard work regarding the circuit and operation is really appreciated. The circuit is more complex than I was expecting. I have yet to test it as I first need to source a suitable mini Bulgin mains plug. Well done you must have spend many hours working it out.
I'm having an issue where i can force the usb to the value of 2 from zero, however it disconnects and reconnects my device. But similar to @sebek819, i don't have the USB mode 3.0 folder. Have you any advice to fix this?
I try my best :) It's also a good way of picking up little titbits of knowledge. When you work out the schematic you're looking for how it works. If it looks like it wouldn't work, chances are you've missed a track or messed one up. If I need a reverse polarity protection circuit I'll probably dig this schematic back up and look at how it was done here.
NOCO is all marketing. I have two and they were both junk before the warranty expired. The cost to use the warranty is more than the cost of a competitor unit.
I can't find my instructions at the moment but I *think* the next step is to add one of the keys you DO want, the difference is that this will now become the first key in the car's list rather than an additional one. So the only difference in process from start to finish is that one additional turn of the key partway through.
Hi Ain't Big Ain't clever and everyon. Do you where I can find the diagram for a Rugdoctor mp-c3 please, I have looked & looked but can't one, there's plenty with the switches in the handle but I can't find a diagram like the mp-c3 with the switches in the main body of the machine. Great video thankyou.
I've just looked and I see what you mean, the X3 manual has the switches in the handle but the photos on eBay have it on the lid. Take a look at the Wide Track manual available here, scroll down and there are diagrams showing what plugs in where. shop.usaclean.com/parts-and-supplies/rugdoctor/mighty-pro-wide-track/#section-docs
@aintbigaintclever The wiring diagram to the main body clearly shows the motor but it doesn't seem to show the 2 switches, please help if you can thankyou.
@@sloopycat1954 the X3 service manual has the switch wiring diagram, I expect Rug Doctor will use the same switches across their range (and DPDT rockers are pretty standardised) so whether in handle or lid the diagram ought to be the same.
Thank you so much. Changing ForcedUsbMode finally solved the problem for my TP-Link T4U Adapter. The USB options for the UI do not exist, but the important part works. Thumbs up!
This might be asking a lot, but i have fluke 650 lan cablemeter, but I'm missing the 650R remote, any chance to get a high res pics of the both the back and front of the pcb?, want to try make my own replacement , i know if you gave the front already but yeah, also what is the green rectangle block between the relays and transistor array? and any idea what the zener diodes are? value wise? are they used for breakdown voltages perhaps? or just signalling ?
I'll see what I can do. I don't think board photos would be sufficient as there'll be tracks under the relays, but I should be able to borrow the unit from work again and pop open the remote to see what's what.
@@AintBigAintClever that would be amazing! but yeah if its not too much it would appreciative maybe allow other ppl to build there own but yeah dont think i'll get support from fluke for something this old i dont think
@@Xfixiateher download it again, I've added a third page with a circuit analysis. I finally remembered to grab the tester yesterday afternoon, took a few hours to trace the schematic based on following tracks, some continuity checks and manually setting the relays. This morning I've looked at the schematic to work out what it's doing, which helps determine if I've missed any tracks out, I've also tweaked the layout slightly to make the K2 connections clearer. I think it's all correct.
From my experience reporting crypto scams and malware I think Facebook's community standards are ”Anything goes". Pathetic also considering a 20 line python program could detect 99% of it.
At the time Plusnet's FTTP pilot offering was FTTP at FTTC speed, at FTTC price. Basically the same service delivered over fibre instead of copper. It was still a welcome jump from the ADSL previously in use (the local cab was never provided with FTTC service and was last in the area to get FTTanything). I've just checked and 145/30, 300/50, 500/75 or 900/115 are available if I want it, but I don't need it.
@@AintBigAintClever Ah - I assume you are in an area that without the FTTC cabinet (because it looks like it was physically impossible to land it) you were upgraded straight to FTTP. This happened around the corner from me in Bridgend - I have an FTTC cabinet about 1km away, but to the right of my street, the next PCP cabinet is bang outside a pub with no room for said FTTC, they all had FTTP years ago. Only last week have I *finally* been able to have FTTP whilst most of the rest of the town have had several options for quite some time. And yes, I can appreciate ADSL straight to even 80Mbps FTTP is a massive, massive jump, because the latency is also *so* much better on full fibre.
@@gorebrush when I spoke to an engineer working on the pole by my house he said some of it was just to bring up the average speed in an area. Got a load of cabs offering an average of 60Mbit download? Drop a 330/30 FTTP cab in and hey presto, the average in the town has jumped up. They could've plonked an FTTC cab nearby easily enough. Incidentally that green cab is apparently down in its own well from where the road was raised but nobody was prepared to pay BT for the work involved in lifting the cab. We've still got areas where FTTanything is unavailable. Openreach have their work cut out if they're planning on shutting down the analogue services on time.
