Just me mucking about repairing cars / anything that runs....this is not a professional channel it's just me doing my thing..if you like it great and if you don't that's just fine too.
Hopefully you will learn some automotive related tips and tricks along the way....yes I was professionally trained as a technician, yes I worked in a body shop, yes I briefly drove a rally car in N.Ireland, I haven't worked professionally as a mechanic in the last 20 years (except my own builds and some free labor for friends )
What's my day job ? I write SQL code and build out Oracle EBS environments, all modules (AR,GL,AP,P2P,ASCP,MFG,Advanced pricing, istore builds, FA, Sabrix integrations ect...)
The pin has serrations on the right side and is much much easier to get out (and back in) the other way. Kudos on using the punch. Also, do NOT start these screws using a power tool. Use some C clamps to compress and start screws by hand counterrotating them first, so you won't have to bite a new thread into that plastic. Isn't the end of the world if you do strip them (can always use a machine screw with a nut) but why shorten the valve's life if you can avoid it.
This is a great video for the naysayers who think plugs are unsafe and only an emergency fix. It lasted you 3-4 years, and even though it did fail it was a slow leak and not a sudden failure. If you had taken it to a tire shop originally chances are they would have sold you a new tire and refused to plug it.
Very informative. I’ve been scratching my noodles all day and I couldn’t figure out what’s wrong with my bulbs. I had initially thought that those 2 codes were for the tail lights and had to run to the nearest automotive store and have replaced all four and the light would still be showing on my dash boards. Then I found your clip and voila! Suddenly, my issues were fixed. Thank you.
Shouldn't let the air as you've ran out of coolant then the line filled with air again then put another bottle of coolant with the Line filled with air then turned the valve back on, this is a no no if you don't want to any air in the system
After doing a dozen or more plugs in my life I recently just had my first failure, it’s near the sidewall and the tire is less than a year old! My dumb luck!!!! Going to try replacing, will use the tips from this video and the comments, hopefully it will work.
2024 - BMW here in Portland is charging $1400 to replace all pads, sensors, rotors. I purchased everything online for $485. And I got better quality stuff. Thanks for the video.
Great DIY. I need to do it on my E90 N43 4-cylinder, which is idling like crap and undrivable with cylinder 3 injector / misfire fault reading, so will probably do all 4 injectors. I suspect possible oil fouling due to rocker cover leak, which I'll replace if found. Just building up my research and confidence to DIY and this has really helped. What was the long-term result for this car? Thanks so much.
All I asked Google is the roughing of the Belt, not a documentary of your struggles in life, I just went and figured mine out on my own, my God man you made it look Harder than it was, im not asking Google nothing else 😂
135608 is for "Valvetronic: No movement identified" I would check the acturator and see if you can manually turn it, it's something like a 4mm allen key it it's stuck it could be due to poor oil or it just quit on ya. If you have a scanner you can do a relearn and set the stops this would also tell you if it's moving, you can hear ir clear as day when it's doing the stop limits relearn.
You can’t just pull the differential cover off and completely drain the gear oil/clean everything out? That’s how I’ve always done it on the American/Dana differentials. They don’t have drain plugs and it’s not hard to take the cover off and reseal it.
Same problem,but I've tried to use it before seeing this,and wouldn't work unless setting on the side of the deep notch and the settings are off now,Can u tell me how to get settings corrected????? Tyia🦋🥀🪶💜🪶🥀🦋
