Bought it from 5 Star Metal Buildings. It is 24x30, I wish I went just a little bit bigger. Although I did over size it just not enough. I got a hold of a local rep from a family member that got one from them prior. I did most the work thru the rep, sizing and all. the back log was about 2 months but seems like that is normal now, I think the demand for them went up. When it was installed there was a crew that did the work. www.fivestarmetalbuildings.com/
For that inside of the deck lid you could (cheap way) sand and bedline it. OR (what I would consider) FLOX it. It would look sweet, whatever color you may want. Naturally, sand it, smooth it out 1st. But yeah....
The plans extend to the trunk as well. Clean it sand it (kind of) repaint it and cover it with carpet. When I finally learn to weld the trunk will look nicer than original but still functional.
I have a near mint condition monsoon headunit from an 02 grandam gt i found, that i want to sell (bought car in 02 and replaced all audio equipment after 5 months- think speakers were thrown away). Is my best bet to just sell it on ebay with note that it's not unlocked?
Been there in that effed up heat man! Take a breath and check it tomorrow! Just a lil old school tip: In my opinion, seam sealer sucks. I have used a sealer called Lap Sealant (commonly used on campers and RV's). It goes on soooo much smoother. Take care.
Thank you very much your video was very helpful I myself am having pretty much the same problem I have just started trying to troubleshoot mine I was very suspicious that it was The chassis battery disconnect Thanks to your troubleshooting I have a way to start checking mine thanks again RV Custom Products trouble shoot. chassis battery failed.
Welcome. I was fighting to find out what the issue was, until I figured out it was my inverter/charger. Here is a helpful site if you haven't found it already. It has schematics you can print if needed. rvcustomproducts.com/
Much better to just get a welder and bend up some pieces and weld it , the fiberglass and metal expands and contracts differently during temperature changes and it separates, or they make panel bond for gluing in patches or long strand fiberglass reinforced body filler which bridges holes in sheet metal 3-4 inches wide .
Sounds like I need to rethink the doors then. I was planning on just doing the outer skin on them, but the trunk will be fiberglass both pieces. I am working on my welding now but it will be a long process.
@@StartYourEngines77 well I wasn't sure if you're making a mold and making new parts or if you're repairing the rust . If you're just doing a repair check out a product called kitty hair
I ended up soldiering 3 points that went bad on the bcm. This is the link to show you what to look for. After this fix, I have not had a problem at all. ru-vid.comnAv-pPCgqKA
@@StartYourEngines77 thanks I ended up getting two plugs to get the pins from the second one. I couldn’t find new pins that looked similar. Closest thing I could find was Delphi metri pack 150 but it looked a bit different and a slightly larger diameter pin
I seen what you said, but I would try this. Put a small can from like Walmart with the dye in it. After a few days check all the lines and compressor, everything. It should show you where the leak (if there is one) is coming from. That is how I found this one and the one on my Camaro.
That trunk lid would be a great piece to teach yourself to mig weld body metal . Way more work to make a mold and then make a new lid in fibreglass . New inexpensive welders are pretty affordable too . Regardless , if I was undertaking this I would make a mold of the skin , after I was done with that I would separate the inner structure of the trunk lid and bond that to the new fibreglass skin , it will be much less work .
You know, I didn't think of using it for welding practice. Like the idea and will def use it for that when the mold is finished. Sadly though the inner of the trunk is bad also, so I will mold that also. Thanks for the idea though.
I seem to have a unique problem that no one’s had before and maybe you know what it could be? Only my driver side blinkers and hazards work. But in the dash both sides blink just fine as if nothing is wrong (no blinking faster on one side or staying lit) but both passenger turn signals don’t light up. I have LED bulbs all around and flasher is new. I’ve replaced burnt out sockets and bulbs. Fronts I have switch back LED bulbs and on both the DRL function works fine. Anyone had this problem before? 2002 camaro ss
I would try to bypass the module like I did in here. I did the same as you with new bulbs and connectors and it came down to a failing DRL module. You can just depin the wires for the blinkers and if it works then you can solder or use a butt connector on them for good.
This shortcut of a repair will fail. Just bite the bullet and buy a better trunk. I don't understand why dudes waste time, effort, and money like this.
Poor lady. Wacked out drunk. Play stupid games and win stupid prizes I guess. Maybe some sort of submission / arm lock would have been better😅. She went out cold. Homie did a little too much. As a man, the goal is to keep self composure and regulate emotions/thoughts at all times. A dangerous man isnt a man with a big ol sharp sword. No no no. A dangerous man, is a man who has a sword, knows how to use it, but keeps it sheathed.
