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They put a lot of work into those to run the highway at 80+ mph on break in (Especially 4.88, it's harder on the pinion (spins faster) the higher numerically you go) .....Just sayin.... you'll prolly be fine but the gears we're prolly sayin' "REALLY!?, this is how its gonna go?....I'll TRY to hang in there!"
Looks pretty similar to what I'm currently building, I ran my lower links in the same location front and rear. My question to you sir. What degree of turning angle did you get before you hit the front lower links? As of now I'm only getting 22° which kind of sucks.
Do not install 4.88 unless you wanna burn more gas and loose speed. I just had my four-door JK done with 4.88. Big regret because of rotting is perfect but go in 75 on the freeway will burn double of your gas RPMs won’t drop the 3000 on a flat surface
It really does *NOT* look like it should be used as a tree saver. That 1/2" diameter wouldn't really be any different than wrapping your winch line around the tree directly, which is a major no-no as it can damage or even kill a tree. The functionality of a tree saver is that it's a wide band to spread the force out over the tree, which this doesn't do. It really looks like it was designed to be either a winch extension cable (for a small winch) or something you can make a bridle out of, connecting each end to a separate recovery point on a bumper to spread the load more evenly on the bumper when towing someone. Just because they may say it *can* be used as a tree saver, doesn't mean it *should* be used as a tree saver because it doesn't look like it would actually save a tree any more than a winch line. I wouldn't promote it as a tree saver, myself.
Yeesh. If your engine is dead and you need a flat tow on the road and you were in nothing heavier than a Jeep, based on the info provided here this would probably be fine, and for a side by side it might be ok for some kinds of recovery, but for a Jeep stuck e.g. in mud, I struggle to imagine it surviving a strong pull, especially if the pulling vehicle was heavy and its tires had lots of grip, for example on slickrock. It also seems kinda short. To be honest, I struggle to see it surviving as a tree saver for something like a stuck Jeep or truck, too. Set up a snatch block and it could very quickly be Game Over. Snap! Small and light are nice, but for recovery gear I'll pay the size and weight penalty for something proven beefier, but guaranteed to do the job, for my Jeep and any other rig I might come across on the trail, regardless of how heavy it is or how stuck it is (within reason for my JKUR). Just my two cents.
Thanks, it will be getting tested with deep mud and slick rocks where it has to be under intense work load. I will also be seeing how it works on a nice knotted tree.
"The primary intention behind this rope is to function as a bridle without any doubt. To utilize it as a tree saver, it's advisable to provide additional protection underneath. Even with the use of a standard flat tree saver, there remains a significant possibility of fiber damage. It's worth noting that there's certainly a method to employ it as a versatile recovery tool!"
I'm planning on visiting Colorado and renting a sxs to ride trials. It will only be a half day for my son and I. We'll be renting a Maverick X3 turbo. I'm leaning towards this trail but I know there's so many other ones. Any suggestions?
Not quite ready for paint as of yet sir. I'm about to link the suspension on my cj7. I'm looking to do the same setup that you did. I was just wondering if you had any if I was doing it again advice.
I'm new the jeep community but I was planning on buying a JL with MT and a 4.88 gear ratio because I plan on switching to 35 as soon as I get it or should I stay with the 4.10 gear axel ratio?
