I got a vevor microscope similar concep but it loses focus as soon as you change height or angle even by half an inch😢 have you noticed that with this piece too?
So, yesterday I removed the train wheel bridge of my 7 jewel Elgin pocket watch, and I just cannot get it back on. The fact that the train bridge pivot holes aren't jeweled makes it even harder. It's so frustrating that I started crying for a moment. I feel like I'm paying for my sins
I feel your pain. You'll just have to keep on persisting and you will get there eventually. You can get a really good sense as to what is going on by feel.
@@watchout9213 A couple hours after I wrote this comment, I got it back together. I just followed what you were doing in the video and it worked! Thanks
kalle slaap is his name i had a lot of skill and the most stuppid tools and my result were good.. if you can make a shity movement run great thats watchmaking ... learnd that from kalle!!
@@watchout9213 yep part number is exact,as you mentioned but I couldn't get it to India, amateur watchmaker here .thanks for the reply.i will check around
Hello fellow Aussie, glad I found your channel, I'm starting to learn about watchmaking as well and will be documenting the whole process. Looking forward to seeing your channel grow too.
I feel like this video (speciallly the title) was made just for me 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 I always end up screaming all over the house, screaming and cursing, all to just end up going back to my bench and sitting there silently for 10 freaking minutes, staring at the watch and re-thinking my decisions in life 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Great video and very real. I Feel your pain. The way I massively reduced my pinging and breaking stuff activity is to stop trying to achieve anything, don't have an aim. The fiddling around with the spring so that nothing pings is the only thing I'm doing, the fact that at some point it drops into position is a side effect....hope that makes sense, it worked for me. As soon as I start thinking about needing to get something done I take a break.
Thanks for that, I really appreciate it. Unfortunately filming things self-imposes some get-it-done-itus, because I'm always thinking "are all the cameras in focus?", "are they still recording?", "how much space is left on the SD Card?" - it prevents me from being 100% focussed on the task at hand - but its kind of hard to do RU-vid without filming, right? Anyway, I press on. I've had the watch on my wrist for a few days, and while it has low amplitude, and does occasionally stop, for the most part it runs well and is keeping good time.
Stevie, welcome back mate, was looking forward to a video as an indication ure all moved in and in some sort of normality. OK, I see some comments on small bits, tweezers technique, jewel oiling.....well, in my humble opinion, dressing your tweezers saves those little bits from being launched and going into the black hole. For me, I make sure my tweezers points are true and sharp, one can use a little bit, but not so course sand paper or a fine file. The main area would be the inside where one would grab things with, this I also use some sand paper to "rough up the inside grabbing area" of the instrument,this assures slipping when picking up parts. As for teweezer technique, that can only be learnt personally and with daily use of the tweezers, noting mentally the amount of pressure needed to be exerted on your pair of tweezers to pick things up. This comes in time and experience. I hope this helps. Thanks for the video mate. Mike
Nice work, Steve. Like me, the more you work on movements the better your skills become. I'm just getting to grips with those pesky cap jewels and oiling them. It's spooky but only the other night I was thinking I haven't seen a video from you for quite a while so welcome back. The nice thing about this hobby is there's no rush as life can get in the way sometimes.
Thanks so much - yeah, I moved house which was a nightmare, and all sorts of other things going on. Not really sure what I will do next. I have got the other 66A movement, and I could rebuild that just to see if it runs any better. As I mentioned I also want to learn how to replate a case, but will need to obtain chemicals, and especially for Gold plating, that can be pricey. The problem with practising on those cap jewels, is that once the jewel flies away, its gone forever. Maybe I should buy a box of 100 jewels just to practise motor skills with!
@@watchout9213 Let us know how you get on with those, I've heard they can be a mixed bag and finding the right one can be a nightmare. I'm using an old movement to practice oiling the jewels and I'm feeling pretty confident handling them now, a decent set of twizzles makes all the difference. Appling the oil is a different kettle of fish as I'm in two minds to continue with the auto oiler or go manual. I find the auto oiler quiet hard to get the hang of but as they say "Practice makes perfect" 👍
Regarding putting the parts together. I am also a beginner and doing the same. However I can’t see how even with experience it will be easy to keep track of which screw goes where. Each movement seems to have its idiosyncrasies about that. So I would say that keeping screws grouped with what they screw in is likely a good practice in general
I've only done half a dozen movements, but I'm pretty sure I would be able to work it out pretty easily. The biggest risk is two screws that are the same thread but different length. I haven't had a movement with that yet, but some do. That's why its important to keep a close eye on the screws when disassembling. Most of the time the wrong screw just will not fit into the wrong place. Watch movements are for the most part so finely toleranced, that the right screw will just want to go into the right place - if that makes any sense. It will be pretty obvious pretty quickly if it isn't right. Also, after a while you know that most watches will have at the very least: Balance screw Pallet Fork screw Dial screws (I usually leave this in the mainplate) sometimes mounting ring screws to secure the movement in the holder (I usually leave these in place) Train bridge screws (usually 3 or 4, and they are usually the same) Barrel bridge screws Ratchet screw (big head) Crown wheel screw (big head, usually reverse threat, with the thread cut off at the bottom so it doesn't foul the stem) Setting lever screw (it will be different from all the others, newer watches often don't use a screw but a post that sits in the mainplate) There is usually a cover plate on the dial side that over the top of the yoke. Usually two screws that are fairly small There may be a screw as part of the yoke spring mechanism depending on manufacturer If the watch has centre seconds sweep, there will either be an additional bridge holding the fourth wheel above the centre wheel. Usually just 1 screw. Otherwise the fourth wheel will be offset, and there will be a small bridge with an intermediate wheel to connect the fourth wheel to a pinion going through the centre wheel driving the seconds hand. There will be some screws holding this intermediate arrangement in place. So the point is that it doesn't take that long to be able to identify what everything is for, and thereby where the screws go. I learned all this just by working on a few watches. The point is to look very carefully when disassembling. And even though filming it is a real pain, sometimes it can save your life when you need to go back and review the footage to see how something goes back together. Good luck, and enjoy!
@@watchout9213 I hope for my sake you are right. My second practice movement is a 2650g. A pretty ugly and very cheap skeletonized movement which I chose because I could have a pocket watch with it in it delivered by Amazon one the same day (Sunday) for 27$. And the click screw, ratchet wheel screw and crown wheel screw look the same even under the microscope. Obviously the crown wheel one is reverse threaded and the other two may actually be identical. But in doubt I keep them separate and next to their respective part. Granted it may be different in more “respectable” movements (and I am not ditching this one because it is Chinese. I think the st36 is beautiful and very well made but that 2650 really feel bad.
I’ve watched dozens of RU-vid videos and I’m just about to start my watchmaker journey. Your video was so instructive and inspiring. Knowing I’m going to make mistakes along the way doesn’t seem so daunting now. Thanks and I look forward to seeing more.
Can you believe this was filmed on my iPhone and the work done through a maggy lamp. Now I have a microscope and proper cameras. You might like to check out some of my later videos. Thanks for Watching.
Discovering your channel as I am starting on the same hobby. And my st36 is arriving in a couple days. It is nice to see video of someone who is not actually an expert
Well the movement arrived and I broke the settings lever screw in the settings lever as my first operation (when trying to remove the crown). The rest of the disassembly went better. Probably slightly bent the hairspring though. I have just started reassembly.
I purchased a AmScope and I can say it is manufactured in the same factory. The only difference between amscope and these "knock-offs" is branding and quality control. But if you go with a knock-off it will be 99% the same, same optics, same shell same everything. AmScope is more expensive and I only went with it is because the shipping was cheaper.
Very instructive video. My problem: the more I secure the screw, the slower the wheel turns, then stops. I have visually inspected it; the two feet under balance bridge are in place, the wheels at first are turning, so all seems right. I never screw it down overly tight, just enough. Wondering if you'd know why this would be happening. Thanks.
@@curiousassortment You could check for end shake - the pivots should be able to move up and down - have you taken the jewels out - is it possible they have been put back in incorrectly or with the cap stone upside down?
@@watchout9213 I'm new to this so I'm not sure about some terms. By "pivots" I assume you mean the two legs under the top plate of the balance. Not sure what you mean when you say I have taken the jewels out - I only removed the balance wheel assembly - one removal. Also I dropped the thing once, so something might have fallen out. Cap stone?- not sure. I have the feeling I need a decent digital microscope to better examine what I am doing. Thanks again for your reply!
@@curiousassortment I suggest watching LOTS of videos, and reading some articles - this will help you with the terminology - an then its just practice practice practice - I still have a very long way to go myself before I am anywhere near competent.
I am learning on the exact same movement. I'm so glad you posted this. My spring went flying also when trying to remove the center arbor. I didn't take a picture and could not remember which way the spring wound or even how to start hand winding a spring. Awesome!
Is there a way to get in touch with you about my ST36? On mine there is an extra part that appears to be above the balance wheel. I don't know whether to remove it first. I'd like to send a photo. Thanks.
Hi Steven, just a random question, I have a seiko travel alarm clock, in a case. There is a, well looks like some sort of adjustment screw with a double ended arrow pointing to a plus and a minus, what is that for? I have seen the same sort of thing on alarm clocks you have worked on. Hold the phone, I went back to one of your earlier videos and I may have answered my own question, but can you confirm, is it to adjust if the clock is running too fast or slow? Mine is running slow so do I move the screw to the + sign?
Love your work. I feel your pain. I've just started my first tear down and rebuild. Picked up so many pieces off the floor, but getting a bit better every time I work on it.
You’re well on your way, and great work on the video! Top tip is to put the setting lever in as the very first part. I had countless disasters when I used to leave it towards the end.
I am getting good results by holding the piece right in the center with rodico, which makes it very easy to place it completely vertical. Once in place, I tap lightly with a toothpick to separate the rodico.
At 48:44 -- "The jewel can't go anywhere." This brought a (sympathetic) chuckle. ;-) Very nice video and I like your level-headed manner throughout. You're not hesitant to admit there's still a lot to learn, and that's so refreshing in today's climate of instant know-it-all-ness. I've noticed the same realistic outlook in a number of watch-repair presenters, and am glad of it. Subscribed! Thanks.
Thanks so much for the sub - yeah, the world doesn't need any more know-it-alls. I'm not sure where this hobby will take me, but as long as it stays fun I'll keep pressing on.
ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-hRgSaqHQyEs.html too much oil. Also it is apparent that the plate holding it is a bit bent, hence the rubbing.
Didn't notice the bend, but yeah, that rubbing is definitely not right. However when I removed the plate and minute wheel the amplitude did not improve. I suspect there are a number of things wrong with this movement.
Hi I'm a watch tinkerer to sir, is it because of the old mainspring? also use grease on spring and a smear of oil on the sides of barrel but very good video mate.
