An antique woodworking tool junkie focused on sharpening stones these days. You can find me on Facebook, in The Can I Have It? Tool group. facebook.com/groups/CanIHaveItToolAuctions/?ref=share
You can also flatten stones against eachother. Eventually all surfaces used will become flat. (That's how the first truly flat reference surface was made (for machining))
Very nice stones you have! I also have a minty tam o shanter,and a water of ayr stones,also a dalmore scotch hone.what type of knives do you like to carry?
Can the brass edges on a Stratton Brothers #1 level be removed for cleaning? If possible, I don't know if trying to slide or pry them out would be best.
I went thru all my notes, which are plentiful 😅 and it seems I measured the chocolate hone when I was first diving into testing stones. Unfortunately I'm fairly certain I only measured it for density, not specific gravity, but the two are *usually* correlated by a percentage factor. I've found most stones, not all, are generally thus: specific gravity is approx 10 to 15% less than density. For the Lisbon Chocolate hone I have a noted density of 3.2, which would make it's specific gravity *probably* around 2.9. This was when I first started testing stones, so I don't trust my numbers as much as I do my later samples. Also worth noting that density and specific gravity do not correlate to hardness. Consider that Hard Arkansas stones top out on specific gravities around 2.6, while Thuringians are denser yet softer. Happy hunting and happy honing.
This came up in my feed. I'd recently purchased some precision ground tool room stones, and now have honing stone videos to watch. I'm blown away by how much you guys know about this.
I have a little collection of old washitas in various sizes and I love the way they work with older steels, most cutlery steels really with the exception of the really hard and wear resistant "super steels" powdered, melted, high alloy stuff that you really should just use diamonds if you are going to try. I have a few of those, but since I enjoy sharpening and honing I really don't worry about edge retention beyond the basics is the knife heat treated well and will it take and support a good edge. Honestly since I started using washitas I rarely use my soft and hard Arkansas stones and only break out the translucent on rare occasions. The washita is faster cutting and leaves a nicer finish, also there is something really cool about using really old stones probably half soaked in whale oil and God knows what else lol.
You provide a lot of information about sharpening stones. Is there a way to determine the grit of a stone? Since most of your video involves subjective determining, I feel like there is no good way to objectively determine grit.
Dude....morphine is the tits.as of now I'm just a few minutes into the video but I suspect I'll hear your playing the whole album, and so I say unto you, fine sir, you earned a sub.
Hi, are you supposed to remove the label on that Pike stone or is that side not useable. I ask because I found an "Old Rook" brand stone that is tan on one side and dark grey on the reverse that has an "authenticity" label stuck on. I was thinking the sticker side might be a courser grit but am unsure. Good videos good sir and I learned a lot. Cheers.
@@flipsfan78 Thank you for the quick reply. I'll probably just leave the sticker on and just use the coticule side. So just to confirm, the label side is actually useable (coarser grit?) if I chose to remove it? Thanks again. Cheers.
@rickdff62 Traditionally the purple side is referred to as Belgian Blue Whetstone. The two layers occur together naturally, but personally I find the darker sides dull and slow, it's not coarser, I think they're used as a finisher, something akin to a hard strop
I've picked up stones in the wild, garage sales, estate sales. What grit silicone carbide powder do you use to clean up the stones. Thanks for all your information, it's a learning process.
Depends on how hard the stone is, I usually prefer the rough stuff; 60 or 80 grit powder to start. The coarse grit will wear down to a finer grit, so you can get a range of action for one money.
Stone guy, I'm from argentina. I require your wisdom identifying some stones I found in a really old house. I believe they were from a german inmigrant that came here around 1920, maybe earlier. I can send pictures and i do have a kind of "microscope" for my phone. Where can I send you pictures of them? Maybe you find them interesting. I could get their specific gravity if it helps.
They're actually very hard. You can lap them if they are worn in, but it takes a long time. I find them harder than Washitas, similar to a hard ark. Japanese coarse water stones are similar in color, but slurry a lot easier.
Question: I have my Dad's stone. I'm 54 and remember it from when I was a kid. It is grey/ beige and has a good weight to it. it's marked HORTON combination oil Stone JBB. Also says bear with a pitcher or a Bear head.I lost the box it came in. Can you tell me anything about it?I'm going away this weekend and would like to sharper my axe/ machete/ hatchet and a few knives. I understand without seeing it it might be difficult. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated brother. 👍 P.S. you do sound like a geologist😅.
I have one of these! It looks to be the same width and thickness as yours, but only half as long, I'd love to figure out what it is and maybe find a bigger piece, great polisher!
Specific gravity is density. The reason the suspension tests works is that the specific gravity of water is one. So you are back calculating the volume of the item as a SG of one.
