Hey Tomas - I have lots of Zajo kit! Its my favourite outdoor gear! Hard to come by in the UK so I order it from Slovakia. I've been working as an instructor for many many years now and have worn every brand there is; however Zajo has become my go to clothing now. Just very well made and thought out.

@@ThePeakClimbingSchool Great, I am glad to hear that. Quality is quite good for the price 👍

I remember watching this 3 years ago when I was about to get a new rope. I eventually got one and tried this method in the middle of my climbing gym. I ended getting my arms knotted together. Had to throw the tangled rope on the ground and spent the entire climbing session trying to get it untangled. In front of everyone. Anyways, here I am again trying to learn how to flake a new rope for the first time. Scared to try this method again!

Balanced me just right for a single move

HI Alex! I now know this but before the video I didn't haha! Im pretty terrible with pronunciations anyway but will get it right from here on :)

Probably to set up an anchor and bring up the students on TR? Looks like he had a couple of bits and bobs on his harness for an anchor.

Hey thanks Jaume, glad you enjoyed the video! So the only reason we recommend going down through the top instead of up through the leg loops is just in case you switch off and accidentally tie in to just one loop. If this happens and you've gone down just through the waist (but not through the legs) , If you then fall off at least your centre of gravity is below where you tied in, if you accidentally just go through your leg loop section then fall off (as your centre of gravity will be higher) you can potentially flip upside down. The likely hood of all this happening? Pretty slim especially if you are buddy checking every-time, however I have seen the above scenario happen, where just the legs where tied into and the climber flipped. So as a nerdy instructor I suppose I just this is a fail safe we've implemented when teaching tying in. If you've been taught going in through the bottom this isn't wrong at all! just be aware of this situation above. We just had a chat about it and concluded down is better than up. Hope that helps explain our reasons??

Hei! That is a very reasonable answer! Some people I climb with do it one way or the other but when I asked them, their answer was: That is what I had been taught. I had the same experience, when I was taught that I was just given the instruction to thread through both loops and that was it. I did "exhaustive research" (nope) on RU-vid and I could not find the difference nor the reasoning. I guess when you have the habit of threading in either direction, as long as you thread both, it should be fine. I think though, it is of good habit to thread waist and then leg a you guys mention, since it is a "fool proof" way. Thank you very much again!

This would just be two sizes, realistically I can't think of a situation where an intermediate size would be critical

@@daniellambden1842 i mean that I always see this: 1) full extension or 2) 1/3 of size, when you pass the carabineer throw the other carabineer and make the "short one" But... That's is a problem if I use this sling just folding in half?

@@daniellambden1842 min 02:00 - full extension. Min 02:12 1/3 extension.

You can use the intermediate size sling however it isn't typically used in trad climbing since it isn't as convenient. The situation where a 1/2 sling would be more useful than either a full length or 1/3 length is rare, and it's hard to plan for that before a climb. At 2:35 you can see how it doesn't matter which of the three strands you clip your rope carabiner into since it will naturally equalize from a 1/3 length to full length. If you try clipping the carabiner into two of the strands to get a 1/2 length, the sling will become tangled around the carabiner and knot, rather than loop, and it can compromise the sling's safety. Plus it may take a significantly longer time to untangle. If you take the time to set up the halved slings you can use them safely. Probably best to do that before you leave the ground, though.

​@@Ben-cp6wv Thank you very much for the reply. By using 1/2 I mean simply folding it in half and I understand safety, but how could I set up the halved slings safely. Do you have any video, link or reference image with which you can help me please. Thank you so much!

Hey Patrick! I’ll try my best to make new ones in 4K! Ah that’s amazing feedback and knowledge!!! I’m going to have to play with both to see the walking now haha. Fantastic knowledge dude never heard that before! Everyday is a school day!

Hi Matt, I normally have a long one and a short one on my harness tbh. Don’t find I go climbing without 2 these days. Short one has a length of about 40cm, and the longer 60ish? Find the longer one is good for rescues / ascending / safety lines etc. Short one is nice for abseiling and less faffy. Defo think you can make them too short though and 40cm is my limit! Just enough for that magic 5 wraps for an abseil. If I use the longer one for an an, I’ll just pop an overhand knot in there to shorten it if need be. Hope that helps? That’s what I have anyway, haven’t had too many issues with that.

Hi Jason, yer I think there great! The main advantage of the VT and all manufactured prusiks, over the “home made” traditional prusiks is strength. Manufactured prusiks are rated to the same standard of slings so should hold 22kn of weight compared to the climbing cord; which on average only holds 6kn. I’m personally a fan of closed loops for my prusiks as I find they are a little quicker to tie, however this is just personal preference and something I’m a little more use too that’s all. Overall the VT you’ve purchased will be a great work horse for you so a good buy. This video was how to make home made prusiks however I am planning on doing a video on pre-made manufactured Prusiks in a couple of weeks so watch this space!