TEMPERATURE IS MOST IMPORTANT ~ any temps over 75 degrees is going to reduce the application time to drying haze will be approximately 15 minutes ~ Mix small amounts pretty loose and work small areas like 2' x' 3' ~ I also suggest using "distilled water" so the manufacture cannot say that '''''''''there may be chemicals in your water making it dry extremely fast'''' Work Fast in high temp situations and clean tools immediately WITH EACH MIX ~ [within 15 minutes] are they will be toast!! The F/A brand does make great smooth seams when done properly.....
If your first board has a gap of 0, 5 cm and second board around corner has a gap of 0,3 cm do you start marking with the first board and go through to the second board? Or do you mark it one by one?
Problem is that neither company stands by their Your body extended warranty once that runs out You paying through your nose to have it fixed they make it to where you might as well buy a new tool They all suck
our whole family has bought and worn new and used blunnies for years and it does take a long time to wear through them! Lava rock in Hawaii was about the only thing that chewed them right through in less then 3 months.
My experience with Blundstones as someone who has used them in Ontario for a winter boot/commuting boot, ( approximately 5-10km a day year round) has been they are tough, comfortable, sturdy, and span over all the seasons for foot protection. I put a sheepskin liner in the bottom for winter and have never suffered for cold feet, which is a big deal since I easily get cold. My job also used to mean I was pushing and pulling heavy weight through the snow, ice, sleet and rain, and these kept me and my cargo firmly upright. My last pair lasted about 2-3 years with daily heavy use from November to March as well.
To lay the tile, I usually only work in maybe small section to avoid the thinset skinning over. Then just follow the manufactures instructions for when to grout, typically 24 or 48 hours
Forgot to Redgard prime (4 water to 1 Redgard), Redgard fabric over all screws/changes of plane, and two final coats perpendicular to each other. Hope this is in the basement ;)
Hi, Good question, I have done it before but sometimes it depends on the popcorn, if it’s raw (unpainted/primed) and you try and skim coat it it might not adhere, but if it is painted you should be able to just skim coat over it. Another option I do sometimes is add 1/2” drywall, depending on the situation
Im getting ready to do my shower. I decided on 12 x 24 as well. Issue here is tile company recommended 3/16 grout lines but I don’t like that. What size lines are those? I’m a bit worried if I got 1/16 and something comes off 😂 I’ll be using the self leveling system as well and it’s non rectified. 🤷🏽♂️
I spent a whole day sanding adhesive off 2 half walls, I wish I had found this video first! Now I can just do this for the rest of my walls! Lifesaver!
Oh yaaa, better late then never I guess! Glad it helped, it’s a time saver for sure! Depending how rough the walls are too, sometimes I rip them right out, or add drywall over them if the space allows.
Would contact cement work to glue a mirror onto a metal medicine cabinet box? Or, is liquid nail glue better? The contact cement could be attached to both surfaces, the mirror and the metal frame, then dry for about 20 to 30 minutes. I think the advantage is you only have to contact the two surfaces together momentarily for the mirror to permanently attach to the metal box. The mirror fell off of the metal medicine cabinet box after over a decade, and luckily the mirror didn’t break or crack.
Ah good question, I think it’d work fine.. you could always add a few, very thin, lines of liquid nails. I’d just check to see what the contact cement can adhere too
I searched for a video that would show me how to do this exact DIY, but once I started watching I couldn't help but laugh. It wasn't the information that cracked me up--that was great and really easy to follow--it's that the bathroom you're working on is the exact duplicate of my bathroom--same window, same tub, toilet in the same place, and best of all, the exact same 1960's glue up tile in the exact same color scheme. My house is a 1925 Craftsman that was unfortunately "modernized" in 1960.
Oh wow! That’s funny, ya I’ve come across these tiles a few times, but to get the same layout and everything must be rare. Too bad yours had the ‘update’ I’d love an old craftsman style house!
The ideal way is to always remove previous flooring. However, this had to fit into the clients budget, so we decided to go on top of the previous tile job
@@mattjames3640 oh yes. The previous owner did the same to my house. There's a few doors, that I have a hell of a time, opening up all the way. Especially the front door
It almost looks like dormered houses. You should make another dormered house in between and make it taller than the ones beside it. Maybe even add a miter to the sides to bump it a half inch proud of the baseboard next to it.
What if the metal magnet part of the door panel when you shut it doesn't have screws & is like that but it's silicone then how do you fix that ? Cut off the old silicone? Re glue it so it's not loose anymore ?
for those looking...the 168's are VERY hard to find in the US. I had to order from a Canadian dealer and pay extra for shipping. An expensive endeavor but I love the boots.
