HI Rob, if I have a 52V 60Amp controller does this mean I need a minimum of 120A continuous discharge to protect the Voltage? (Gotta say, 10/10 for the tutorial mate, the theory lesson was a winner...you clearly like the camera!)
Great battery building video! I'd love you to do one on BMS's if you're up for it. What is that battery welder your using? Where did you get it or is it a kit? Can you please provide a link to purchase?
Great video and thank you very much for it! But I have one question: are we wasting batteries? When we have batteries in parallel, the total current in the system can increase yes? And then our issue would be that we don't have a great enough voltage. If we put a resistor [provided that we're not creating a fire hazard] the current will split between that resistor and the engine, but this will also increase the voltage linearly with the resistance of the resistor won't it? This wasn't done so I assume my thinking is wrong somewhere, can you (or anyone else) explain how please? Thank you!
If you only wired the cells in parallel you'd get increased current and capacity but be limited to the voltage of a single cell (nominally 3.7 volts). But adding them in series increases the voltage to whatever your desired output is (52v for this pack). No resistors needed!
Did you have to do anything special in the code to get a reading in degrees? I can only seem to to Gs from my DHT11 and can't find any math to convert it.
for 2d retro consoles you really dont need more than their native 320x240. adding scan-lines filters to 480p is not that good looking, they start looking decent at 720p (3x resolution). it get's a bit weirder than that though because nes and snes (unlike genesis) are actually 256 × 240, and we are not actually meant to see the pixels as square. All these kids growing up today are seeing mario wrong lol, he's supposed to be stretched slightly fatter on a crt tv. Unless your emulating on an HD display these games looks so bad trying to stretch them to the proper intended aspect ratio. Basically the more pixels your monitor has the better it can make stretching look... but on a low resolution display your better off staying in increments of 240p so the pixels can be perfectly square and avoid screen tearing and stretched looking pixels.
At least with emulation you can mess around with the aspect ratio to try to get it right but connecting a console to a modern display never looks right imo unless you buy one of those super expensive scalers, also a lot of games were 256x240 or 224p or even less but they were always adjusted to 320x240 4:3 after overscan, that's where the stretching comes from, or so I think. Honestly I wish someone would make a 240p LCD that's bigger than 6 inches, at least as a backup to my CRT.
@@AJ-po6up yeah totally. i have a cute little 8in sony pvm, i love those real scan lines. i dream of one day getting my hands on a bigger pvm, but the prices have gone crazy on them. i lucked out and got mine for free before they became hip and super expensive. I like to build little arcade machines so im always ocd looking for 4:3 monitors of specific small sizes ha. But yeah pretty much i just use the real consoles on the crt, got an everdrive in my genesis. but on my hdtv i use a pi, i feel like it just looks much better. totally prefer to play on the crt though.
I have no problems with building that battery. I do have a problem with putting my kid on a public road. With no lisense and doesn't comproad traffic rules and stupid car drivers.
I'm thinking about building something like this, just missing space to place it.... But my current idea is using switchable magnets for the modularity and topper. (welding squares or maching measuring tool bases) they can hold perpendicular force in 10s to 100s kgs
Thank you for sharing you experience + knowledge . A question i asked many time to many ebike youtubers and got nothing as an answer : --> What is the cell voltage difference that is acceptable and safe to assemble power packs , 500mv ; 300mv ; 1/10th V ; less? more ? ( it go's with out saying that this difference is from the lowest to the highest V per individual cell being grouped , Parallel at 1st then Series ) I am waiting for a few more pcs and will be ready to build my packs . thank you for your 2 cents on this issue of mine , Cheers =)
Thanks for watching! I'm not an expert so I can't say for sure what the maximum allowable difference can be (for either safety or battery health). I have a series battery monitor amzn.to/3w4FdUC that gives you a visual warning (yellow highlight) if one series group is too different from the others. I don't remember for sure what that amount was, though. I want to say 100-200mV? And if it was WAY out of spec then it highlights in red. Here's a thread of people discussing: endless-sphere.com/sphere/threads/voltage-difference-between-modules.119081/#post-1749264
This is beautiful Rob! From the wood grain to the well thought out features like the card groove, player cubbies, to the satisfying click of the cup holder. I do want to clarify one thing, the fold down player station you show - the sides of the table (the face that would be parallel to a seated players abdomen) is replaceable? The cubby you flip down has an open face, meanwhile to the right, it's closed. Regardless, well done - probably the best I've seen, would enjoy seeing more content of it and/or it's construction. Thanks!
Yep, there's a little panel that slides in and out from above when the player station is open. I left it out for the demo so I could just flip the player station open, but in reality you have to open it up and then pull out that insert. I thought about that as I was filming and figured no one would notice, but you did, great eye! :)
@@cannikinn Thanks for the response - I would love to see some more details if you have the time and willingness to show how that setup works. A further question regarding the flip-down section - have you, or your fellow players, found it at all cumbersome to be seated and reaching the board atop the felt section with the flip-down protruding like that? Thanks again!
@@Raraoolala Yep I could do another video, watch for that soon! I've got pretty long arms so I can reach to the center of the table even with the station folded down, but my wife has trouble. Sometimes folks have to scoot back and stand to reach, but no one has complained yet! I think I misspoke in the video and said the table is 60" wide, it's actually 54". If reach is a concern you could always make it a bit narrower.
For short-term water spills it's great-the oil makes everything sit right on top and easy to wipe off. I wouldn't leave a sweaty glass just sitting on it for any extended period of time, though! I've never tested it, but maybe I should...
Thanks for the video. I just disassembled mine. The case wasn't glued, just some really good clips. My unit is from 2016 and the batteries in it were NCR18650B. I tested the batteries and 3 were shot but 1 still has good capacity. Too bad Anker doesn't make these to be more easily opened and with user replaceable batteries. I saved the BMS board and thinking about just making my own 4 cell replacement pack and using it as a UPS for one of my Raspberry Pi's.
I've thought about it, using the web version instead, since that seems to be the default now! I still fire up my copy of Sketchup 2017 on my Mac when I need to build something...maybe this is the year!
Hello Rob, I do not have a user manual for this devise, but can you please tell us a bit more about charging the power bank? Do you have to charge the PB the same as a cellphone battery? 80% 10% 2. What Iff you forget to disconnect the PB when it is already 100% charged? Thanks for a short response.
Hello, it is a lithium-ion battery, so charging it to 80% would probably be preferable, but there's no reliable way to tell when it's 80%. I think most people just charge these fully and then just replace them if/when they eventually start losing too much life (which would be after hundreds of full charge cycles). You can leave the charging cable connected past 100%, it disables charging internally.
HI Rob, new to Sketchup and your videos have been a life savers. Thanks for this. A question for you, or anyone one else reading this, I am making trays for a jewelry box and i am strugglin with making the side with dado on a miter joint. Can't seem to figure it out and i havent found anything online. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
They have wireless Carplay now! At the time I did this video I think this Alpine was the only model available that had it, but there are lots now. Check crutchfield.com it's easy to compare all the different models.
I 3D printed a part that clips into the battery level window in the top cover. Link in the description! Note that it only works if you have an aftermarket battery, where there's room under the window for piece to attach.
Down below the Albertson's parking lot, there's a trail that goes from San Elijo Road around the parking lot and joins back up to Elfin Forrest Rd, kind of going around the town center. When you're on that trail, there's a parallel trail next it to, in the Eucalyptus trees, where those huge BMX jumps are. I haven't been over there in a while, so I'm not sure if they're still there!
They're great, they give your arms just a little bit of relief when going over constant technical stuff. I wasn't sure about the hype, but I saw a video review where a guy ran the same trail before and after the bars (a couple of days apart) and then measured his grip strength after. It was like 20% stronger after a ride with the Flexx bars, which meant his hands/arms were less fatigued. fasstmtb.com/
Arrow is so much fun. They have a new wood berm on lower arrow after the tire jump. I’ve done that trail prolly 10 times and I’m still too chicken to do the big worm berm before the 55 bridge. Always take the detour. One day tho.
You can do it! I wouldn't consider myself an expert biker by any means, but the first time down Arrow I came to the worm, didn't see the bypass and figured, "well, guess I'm doing this now!" and it wasn't bad at all. :) The only problem you would have is if you went too slow, you'd slide down. Just keep the speed up and you'll make it! Do you take that little left turn wood berm at the start of Arrow? It's no worse than that (and it feels much wider than the berm, so you've got even more wiggle room if you don't take the perfect line).
@@cannikinn I didn’t think to look at it like that. I think what gets me is when I stopped to look at it, after the right turn into the left turn just looks so steep down and vertical. It plays mind tricks on me.
@@W8tNbLEed86 Definitely! But once you're moving and leaning with the curves they don't feel bad at all! Just keep a reasonable speed (not even that fast really, just enough centripedal force to keep you pressed out a little so that gravity can't pull you down). You could try to find someone at the top to tow you in so you get a sense of the speed required (or watch a few people go through it)
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I've run into the same issue and solved it the same way. It's disappointing that Fuji doesn't have a fix for this (and even let this out in the first place). Didn't anyone test it? Blah.
