This channel is primarily a platform to present my machining related instructional videos. I've been a prototype machinist most of my life and enjoy sharing what I've learned with others so they can have as much fun with it as I have. I'm always open to suggestions for new video's, so if there is something you would like to see, don't hesitate to let me know.
Hi, I've used a simpler "no calculator" method for a long time... (40 years) it depends upon knowing a few metric conversions, but you and I came up with a very similar answer to the spindle rate for your 5/8" cutter... (16mm is 0.63" no appreciable difference...) For a 100 FPM cutting speed, divide 100 by the cutter or workpiece diameter (so it applies to mills, drills, turning) then multiply that answer by 100. So, worked example- 100/16 = 6.25. Multiply 6.25 x 100, you get 625... Not so different from your 645? And the calculator was redundant... For a cutting speed less than or greater than 100 FPM, just pro rate... 500fpm? 625 x 5 = 3,125 RPM 50 RPM? 310 rpm 1/16" drill = 1.6mm 100 /1.6 = 96, 96 x 100 = 9,600 rpm. As you say, a starting point... But 40 years of using my simple formula tells me it works... And... 100 FPM is 30 metres/min, so you can do a fairly rapid mental approximation from metric to imperial (calculator free) When I started work, the old guys recommended these spindle speeds for drilling... 1,000, 500, 250 rpm for 1/4", 1/2", and 1" drills, respectively, pro rated for bigger and smaller drills, in mild Steel, run wet. I think some of them started out with high carbon steel drills. HSS and Super HSS, we could use 1,600, 800 and 400 RPM, wet. 60% of that speed dry... And none of it needs a calculator... (or pi)
I had to come back and find you after a few years with a different username. Glad to see you're okay Tom. I know a guy on my gardening forum that lives in the UP. Known him for many years.
This is great, but emphasize: UNITS MATTER! The formula relies on surface speed in feet per minute and tool diameter in inches, resulting in spindle speed in rpm. DO NOT USE THIS FORMULA WITH METRIC UNITS--convert your values to sfm for the material and inches tool diameter, then plug in.
@robertdubard7959 The formula in the video is in inches and surface feet per minute. There are probably similar ones for metric use. In fact, I believe some have been discussed in the comments.
Tom.... I'm beginning to wonder whether or not the compound should be set at 90 deg minus the Helix angle?? Common practice says to move the single point at 60 or 60.5 but I'm now questioning that. I've done a lot of threading as per standard but gut feeling is saying to examine that compound angle and maybe who knows? I understand the argument about the tool cutting on the leading edge but if the tool is set correctly to the axis, ANY compound angle.... ANY angle, is going to to cut a thread. Only Depth will be reached after probably too much metal is removed sideways to get there. However, what's happening with each turn on the compound is that the Lead Screw to Spindle Ratio is now messed around minutely. This does not happen on the so called 90 deg plunge threading. The lead (and Ratio), remains exactly the same with every pass.... Even if there are 100 of them. The other thing is that if you view a thread from above with the 60 deg tool in position, it looks for all money that it should move forward directly on the Helix line..... ?
Plunging straight on puts excessive load on the cutter. It would be fine on light metals, but tool steels would break off the point of the tool. I rough cut the thread with the compound ar 60°, then plunge straight on for a light finish cut.
@@TomsTechniques I'll agree with you on the plunge for the finishing cut. Until I can prove it to myself otherwise, I'll stick to now believing that while compound cutting is good to get 95% of the thread, its the final plunge which happens to deliver the thread geometry as it should be at the end of the job. My CADD is not good enough for me to model a thread being cut but its something I'd love to see and done with some very powerful software. I just have a hunch it would shed a new light on threading set ups. Just a hunch.
Thanks for the tips on using these. A point about the filing near the end - instead of rocking the file forward (away from you) over the sharp edge, start on the back side and rock the file back towards you. It feels weird at the start but only a tiny bit of practice to get the feel of it and you will find it’s far easier to make a very nice filed radius. Cheers, al
Shouldn’t you have taken .009 off of both sides to ensure the pocket is center? Since you were .005 short on the backside? So in theory you’d be .005 off center
I had to go back and look at this 10 year old video to see what I was doing, and the answer to your question is no. All off the backlash compensation cones off one side. Remember that the backlash compensation is only applied in one direction, not both, so it doesn't have anything to do with the centering of the pocket.
After watching several videos comparing various drill bit sharpening machines and the prices for them, the bench grinder seems the most practical by far since it can be used for other things, not just sharpening drill bits. So it will take some practice but from what I've seen the results are at least as good with the bench grinder and the most cost effective. Nice work on your video and explaining how to do sharpen bits.
Wow super impressed and I'd like to try this project myself I think I have the same bandsaw thank you for sharing your knowledge with the world I can speak for myself I really appreciate your knowledge
I retired with 34 years machine shop experience, with at least half of the years being a Milling machine specialist- meaning my entire work day was using Milling machines. A couple of additions I'll make is that the conventional Milling pull on the cutter can actually undercut the metal being machined. If the operator checks a part thickness and notes there's for instance, .200 of material left to remove and in turn positions the table to remove .200, the resulting cut cut may actually take off more than .200. This is because the conventional cut will "pull" the cutter into the material being machined. This result is compounded when using a long narrow cutter that bends easily. The operator may have a layout line on the top of the part but after the conventional cut completes, the bottom of the machined part thickness may be undercut while the top layout line is still visible . This is because the cutter bends in at the bottom during conventional cuts. The opposite occurs with climb cutting - the bottom of the cutter is deflected off of the part - resulting in a tapered thickness with the bottom being thicker. If one made a climb cut pass to the layout line on top, the bottom of the part may be thicker. If the operator floats the cutter back across the part in a conventional direction, the bottom of the part may be undercut. This will all vary with the length and diameter of the cutter along with how much material is being removed in one cut. Aircraft machine shop.
Good points. End mill deflection is why I always square up parts by end milling rather than side milling. I retired recently as well after 45 years of making chips, and guess what? I'm still making chips. At least I'm doing for myself now instead of someone else.
An excellent video. If I might make one suggestion, I would take a Sharpie pen and mark the top face of the tool before grinding. If you're new to this activity, it is quite easy to confuse which face you're working on - especially if you're grinding tools for working on brass bar where you don't actually need to grind away any of the top surface.
Brazing over welding when joining bandsaw blades together. It's still sheet metal which is very hard to do. I also recommend brazing over aluminum so aluminum can take away excess heat from the torch. Yes, like a heat sink.
You need to track down the misalignment. Check the solid jaw of your vise and make sure it's true horizontally and vertically, and make sure your spindle is perpendicular to the table. If all that is good, the part should come out square.
This is exactly the type of video a novice (being generous here), like me needs. Haven't touched a lathe since shop class in jr. high school 50 years ago and unfortunately didn't pay as much attention as I should have. Interested in buying a small lathe for my garage, reading and watching video's but some of the most basic questions like how to position the cutting tool, which cutting tool to use and rotation of the lathe never get answered. Thanks for putting this together.
I'm still out here. The new shop is basically functional, and I'm catching up on a few projects. It's amazing how long it takes to get reorganized when everything gets uprooted.
4:20 "If you're using a lantern-type toolpost... good luck. They're not known for their rigidity, and your chances of successfully parting are GREATLY REDUCED using a lantern-type or rocker-type toolpost." Truer words were never spoken! Last weekend I needed to make a gib screw for my '42 SB 10R, and used a 1-1/4x4" bolt for stock. I decided to part the head off... there's an hour I'll never get back. I should have used a hacksaw, I'd have been done sooner! 😂 Next payday: a parting tool holder for my turret toolpost...
Been a Tool Maker / CNC Programmer for 27years I watched this video and was like of course this is how u square a block I guess I thought everyone was taught 2 square blocks this way, until I read the comments and am blown away that there's machinist out there that never were taught this. Only diffrence I would say is I don't use a ball pien hammer I use a dead blow and after having 3sides milled I then put in 2 parallels instead of 1 but apart from that I've always used a pin if I don't have 2ground sides across from each other. Don't try and tap block down until u have a ground edge against non moving jaw and edge sitting on parallel u will fight a loosing battle is the only other tip I can give, allow the back jaw and pin in front 2square ur block until u have a milled surface 2sit on parallel. Nice vid.
What I like most with fly cutters , is that you can cut much larger diameters than with most face mills in one pass. The finish is always better, at least visually. Thanks for the video.
The primary and secondary clearance angles are not the same. You need a shallower primary to conduct heat away from the cutting edge and enough of a secondary angle that it doesn't rub.
It depends on what you are doing. If you are milling a deep, blind pocket, then a 2-flute end mill will clear the chips better. If you are side milling like this, more flutes will generate a better finish.
@@TomsTechniques thank you. I'm just starting out. You're answer makes total sense. Especially when I go back and watch the video. I can see why it's fine on side milling. You got a subscriber out of me. And I came here for a better understanding of conventional vs climbmilling. And you absolutely made that make sense. Thank you
You got to remake the video because every time you show The edge you show it below where the camera sees I mean you're just below but I cannot see the edge to see what you're showing us
This was an early video and has 6.5 million views, so even with a couple of poor camera angles, the message seems to be getting through. Maybe someday I'll remake it if I find myself looking for something to do. ;)
Unless you have a mill that you can set a specific feed rate, it's best done by feel. For steel, the chips should have no color, or just a little straw colored and the mill should be easily handling the cut. No chatter. For aluminum, just be sure the chips aren't heating up to the point where they stick to the end mill. If you have the rpm right, the federated is easy.
