Classic arcade PCB repair channel .. specializing in pre JAMMA arcade PCB repair. Reading and understanding schematics as well as use of oscilloscopes, logic analyzers and other Arcade related stuff
My name is Sean, and having grown up in the 80's, i fell in love with the arcades.... the sights and sounds. Now i take great pleasure in giving back to the hobby i love by saving as many old arcade games from non=working status as i can.. Join me in my pursuit to save as many as possible!
After a board edge fix for +5 and GND, connector pins changed out, replacement of Qty 2 10 ohm resistors and replacement of a defective 2114 with a 9114 the Centipede cocktail is repaired - only thing it could stand is a cap kit on the G07-FBO and a clean-up of the cocktail table. Thank you for this video and all of your others, Sean - it's a huge help!!!
@@toddmartin6572 yeah but what’s weird as it has to be registered as a motorcycle… So I’m going Monday to generate a title and registration and a plate.
I am thinking the lights will change bright with speed, and a battery would probably stabilize that… But that is cool, Your going to be like Fonze now.
@@toddmartin6572 I’m sure Sean has plenty joysticks himself, I was just joking about the joysticks he had issues with in this video because I made him a custom arcade controller that I sent him a few months ago.
@@toddmartin6572Just trying to joke with Sean about the trouble he was having with the joysticks in this video. I made and sent him a custom arcade controller a couple months ago… probably a little overkill for what he normally needs when testing repairs.
@@kevinsievert3822 lol that was a nice thing for you to do.. I’ve got so much crap here it’s pathetic. He sure knows how to figure stuff out. He’s advanced so much since I introduced him to the games. Originally he was into the mame garbage. We fixed that issue real quick lol. Thanks for helping out buddy
Does anybody have info on the sets DECO sets that have different ROMs on the bottom board, with spaces between ROMs. I have 2 sets and I can get them to run but some weird stuff like wrong color apron, unless that's how that set should be. Maybe they are Japan release or something. thanks
Interesting tidbit: DeepCool (Chinese) got banned in the US late last year due to some sanctions violations by selling stuff to Russia. All their stuff is supposed to be off the market and most likely destroyed. Now you have a rather interesting historical artefact with that cooler :).
@@classicarcaderepairs4818 One of the bigger messages here got deleted by YT without a warning. Can you still see it in your notifications? Was a reply to you, but was hoping others could see it as well, if they needed the extra info (it was about NVME and devamping Win11).
@@classicarcaderepairs4818 One of the bigger messages here got deleted by YT without a warning. Can you still see it in your notifications? Was a reply to you, but was hoping others could see it as well, if they needed the extra info (it was about NVME and Win11).
28:07 If you installed the second fan on the other side of the heatsink (over the RAM), then you wouldn't have to flip the heatsink. You could add another fan or two on top of the case. This actually could lower the RPM of other fans a bit and decrease the noise. Personally, I prefer full mesh front for better ventilation. These side vents get clogged up very easily and you have to check on them more often. 43:42 If possible, I would recommend lifting the computer case off the floor. The higher it sits, the less dust it will suck in, resulting in less work cleaning it up ;). Also, your power supply sucks the air in from the bottom as well. Even lifting it up a foot or two will make a difference.
128GB of RAM? I'm guessing you will be using it for video editing then? ;) For normal gaming 32GB RAM would be enough. Btw, why no RGB? Don't forget, RGB gives you extra fps hehe.
They must have originally built these with Fairchild parts...hence the odd part numbers on some of the chips in the diagram... BTW Unicorn Electronics has lots of 82S16s.
Hey man, congrats on your new PC! You build that for your racing game? I bet that think is lighting fast. On my Predator Lap Top I always had a problem with the graphics card and the on board graphics driver conflicting no matter how I config my settings. Since I don't game much on it it's not a big deal usually. I hope they have that squared away on current gen stuff. That radiator is crazy! I think it's as big as the turbo intercooler in my mustang, lol. Drop another vid later after you use it awhile with some cpu performance specs and how you like it. (always liked Fallout 3 better than 4 lol) You think you will every try to interface it with your Data IO?
Love these vids, great work as always. These older boards are nice to work on, until all those customs came along. At least you can back engineer PALs and GALs, but full customs 🤢
Thank you for this video. My breakout had the exact same problem (bricks not breaking). I appreciate the walkthrough of the brick logic. I really like your videos (no soldering, just logic troubleshooting). Looking forward to whatever you fix next on youtube
One of my very first arcade repairs was a Breakout that also had no bricks on screen. Looking at the schematics I could see the bricks coming from the RAM, I looked at the signals and the RAM's data input signal was stuck mid-level, it was just invalid. I replaced the chip it came from (7427 triple NOR) and that fixed it (btw. fun thing was that with no bricks, the ball would deflect off PLAYER TWO's set of bricks which were invisible as well so if you were able to hit the ball, it wouldn't go very far). Except player 2 wouldn't be able to play. That turned out to be the 4066 switching the pots between player 1 and 2 (I just jumped an unused portion of the chip which lasted a couple of years until the chip completely died, but by then I had a stash of spare parts). And the player up score wasn't flashing in "not served" state which was another 7427 triple NOR which I fixed several years later as it's one of the most minor things to go wrong in such a machine. (remember, there's an arcade with like 120 machines, every 4th one was broke, so I had better things to do than to fix a score that was just always on instead of flashing in between turns, especially since it was a cocktail table where it was pretty damn clear which player was up. Nobody would even have noticed!) For the sake of your mental health, please don't read the next paragraph... Btw. there's a function or three you might wanna test to make sure it works perfectly... if you break through - ie. the ball touches the ceiling, your paddle should shrink to the size of the ball. And if you clear all bricks, they should be replaced exactly once. And you should get a free play at a certain presettable score. The hell you're gonna do this, unless you're a hardcore Breakout pro. I'm kinda decent. I got the breakthrough and free play (if set low enough), but I just can't clear all bricks - best I did was 4 left. The game should also end when you clear all bricks a second time. Good luck with that. Best you could do is force the paddle hit detection to always return true so you never lose the ball, then in between turn it off to see if the paddle gets smaller or maybe if the ball is locked up, move the paddle to where the ball is gonna hit so it deflects the other way.
I got this classic. As true commercial coin-op I think it's only predated by Pong. There is something like 101 chips on the board. Someone in Atari knew Steve Jobs and asked if he could simplify the design for them. They would pay $500 plus $100 for every chip reduced. Jobs said sure, but three weeks later he had gotten nowhere. Then he asked Wozniak for help and said they could split the $500. Wozniak stayed up for a weekend and came up with a design of only 50 chips doing the same game play. Jobs gave the design to Atari, never mentioning the chip bonus he pocketed $5350 for himself and gave $250 to Woz. It laid the foundation for their later breaking, but never made any change to Breakout. Wozniak's design was so advanced that Atari didn't have the tech to produce the multi layer board required.
My first thought with the playfield was a defective ram chip, good thing it was just the resistor cause these rams are hard to find. Gotta love this board with only ttl and no cpu, I am truly amazed how they designed this. And off course kudos to atari for the detailed schematic, makes it so much easier to repair. As usual nice repair, great job!
