I have this kit from the time when Monogram acquired the molds from the now long defunct model kit company, Aurora. My kit dates from 1979 but it's a kit from the 1960s and has those typical annoying raised panel lines and rivets of that era, the intake is also incorrect (too oval) but otherwise it's a decent model of the A-7A/B. I do believe Monogram made an accurate instrument panel where Aurora did not, the pilot figure is kinda short, replace it with a better one from Hasegawa. The weapons are okay, but I had to cut off those chunky molded on sway braces from the large bombs and watch out for the way the nose landing gear fits into place, it's keyed to go in backwards, that a goof up from the Aurora molding. The current Revell offering of this kit has much better decals.
You already had a lot of knowledge about this kit. I think I've already experienced a lot of what I felt. I'm admiring your information power. Thank you for watching my video.
I purchased that same model and now I'm waiting for delivery. Your build give me a lot of insigths, thanks =D I'll try to build a "what if" of this model in a "operational" version with decals from other kits. Maybe I will produce a video too =)
Black is always tricky for color variation. Dark gery which is near black is good option. Always puzzle the effort of building the interior without able to see them at the end. Option is to leave the side and rear doors open. But it changes the overall appearance of the model. Love your build. Cool looking. 😊
During the assembly of this model, I decided to leave the inside as a video only. I also didn't want the rear door to be open and unfortunately, the rear door alone won't show the quality of the inside, so I hid all of this in the actual final product. I completely closed everything down for storage reasons, but I also regret it a little bit. Thank you for watching my video meticulously. 🙂🙂🙂👍👍👍
Just a word of advice - don't follow instructions blindly and cross reference when unsure, the nose window is upside down - mistake is in instruction, like many others, but even on the box you can see the right way to fit it. Otherwise great job, very nice painting and weathering, well done Sir.
I didn't think what you pointed out was wrong until now. I'm very embarrassed, but I can't help but admit my mistake. Nevertheless, thank you for watching my video until the end. I'm trying to use your advice as an opportunity to develop. Thank you for giving me the opportunity to work harder.
@@pladeler It was not my intention to embarrass you in any way, we all make mistakes, it's part of our hobby :) Academy should be embarrassed for poor quality instructions. You are far better modeller than me, I will enjoy watching your other videos and learn from them myself, thank you.
@@user-ns5ir3ko7r 모형표면에 유막이 심한경우 그럴 수 있는데 그런 경우는 조립전에 모형을 주방세재로 세척해야 합니다. 그게 아니라면 도료희석비율이 너무 된 경우 에어건에서 부드럽게 분무되지 않거나 또는 노즐앞에 이전 도료가 외부로 쌓이고 굳은 경우가 생기는데 이때는 희석제에 노즐을 담가서 분무를 해서 세척해야하고요. 이런 경우가 아니라면 정말 희안한 경우군요. 도료 성분이 락카인 경우는 그런 경우가 없는데 혹시 아크릴인 경우는 희석제를 물대신 전용 희석제나 알콜을 사용해야하는 것 ...이런 건 다 아시리라 봅니다.
영상 잘 봤습니다. 동체 색상도 2호기에 맞는 훌륭한 색으로 선정하시는 그 실력 정말 부럽습니다. 다만 한가지 아쉬운 점이, KF-21은 이제 조립 완료되어 테스트 용도로만 사용중인 기체인데다 KAI도 그렇고 대한민국 공군도 그렇고, 기체를 정말 깨끗하게 유지보수 잘하기로 유명한데 포스트 쉐이딩이 조금 과하게 들어가 거의 수십년 구른 기체처럼 보입니다. 이 점은 조금 아쉽다고 생각됩니다. 추가로 한가지 궁금한 점이 있는데, 에어인테이크가 동체 일부와 결합되는 형태라, 에어인테이크의 흰색 도장을 보호하기 쉽지 않으셨을텐데 어떻게 하셨는지 알 수 있을까요?