Reloading takes time, patience, and passion. Your perfect shot is one that starts at the press and Frankford knows that. We want to make sure every shell you put in your gun is the absolute best. Whether you're reloading for competition or recreation, we have the finest equipment for your ammunition goals. We know how important your firearm is - load it with the best.
To add a rubberized coating to the Tumbler Lite version. Sand the inside of the tumbler container to rough up the inside so the coating will have something to grip and bond with the plastic. Place the tumbler on the base WITHOUT the lid and turn the machine on and let it run. Using a spray can of a rubberized spray on coating. Do the back first and then make you way to the front in light coats. You'll need to do multiple layers to build up the thickness you want. Now just leave the unit running until is is completely dry. You'll want it to be fairly thick, but thin enough that you can still insert the clear plastic cover and lid. If the final thickness is too thin or you don't rough up the inside of the plastic it will start separating from the plastic after a handful of uses. You're Welcome! :) Also the magnet from Frankford Arsenal is a piece of trash. It's too weak to be effective.
Jesus, with how long and complicated retooling is, you almost have to have multiple machines. This is half the price of a Dillon xl750 for a reason, Dillon has the best engineers in reloading designing their stuff to minimize downtime.
Wrong! Velocity driven load development is a fail. Let the target tell you what is the best charge weight. Just use the OCW method and leave the chronograph at home. Once you have your optimum charge, then you can adjust the seating depth to improve the tightness of the groups, and you're done. Chasing velocity and SD/ES is not gonna get you the perfect load with the smallest groups possible under the widest range of conditions.
What am I doing wrong? This is the dirties machine I have ever used. I’ve been reloading since 14 years old. When I started with my father this particular progressive has a couple issues that I don’t know what I’m going to do. The priming system works great then all of a sudden after five or six shells they jam up. I’ve spent many hours adjusting getting everything perfect then they jam up again. I have been using this machine for about a week and had the machine break that bearing on the indexing arm so I had to wait and get a new indexing arm bearing again with primers jamming. The nut on the gear of the primer came loose and caused it to jam and break. I have spent many hours adjusting everything on that press to perfection with still having a primer issue. I cannot trust this machine because sometimes the primer isn’t even put in the case. That is the first issue. The second issue is with .223 Remington cases shaking powder all over the press. That’s the dirty part again I have adjusted everything to perfection but the cases shake as your index and I mean very dirty again I have adjusted everything perfectly. I go very slow it’s still shakes powder. I’m thinking that the buttons that hold the cases could be a touch bigger. Perhaps this would stop the shaking. If I could find the perfect O-ring to put over this button, that would be a good test perhaps you need to make a more specific button for each caliber shell I don’t know I’m just throwing that out there. I have never had problems like this with my Leemaster press. I hate to go back to just using that but I don’t know please help I really want this press to work.
Complete bs! You dont need to crimp 9mm. Roll crimp for revolver cartridges makes sense, but crimping a pistol cartridge exactly where its suppose to headspace is totally ludicrous.
"...until you get the appropriate amount of swage. You should see a smooth rounded transition..." I guess that is the of the station and you clearly stated the goal--and I appreciate the close-up camera shots in cut the cutaway, but you didn't state the initial adjustment that should get us there not the mfr's intended penetration depth into the cartridge primer pocket by the swage pin. make it so the anvil just crosses the threshold and rounds the entry edge? Send it in the full depth of the "anvil" on top of the pin so that the entire pocket for that depth is uniform? (or, "don't do that because you'll have loose pockets.")? Swage the full depth of the pocket so there is no change in resistance? I also agree that showing the whole process may have had other benefits. It was in actually as you were doing a step in the indexing that the way Not to remove side covers was pointed out. You toward the end had a sort of an aside aobut it. You never know what tidbit you are gonna toss out there, and it is the tidbits that make your videos standout in value. 0 Thanks, G. m
Undeniably hilarious. Well done. I'll admit it was the title that got my attention though--having myself reloaded my way back to my own "center mass" on a sleepless night or two. You should make this a series. Product now has my attention, too, so well done.
Hey Gavin. for 223 and 308. do you think it would be possible to run a trimmer in Station 3 (sizing) like the Mark 7 Trimmer next to the FW dynamic hold down in the swaging station? Is there room? I'd run a Lyman M die in station 6. Also, with FL rifle dies I assume I should have the die just making contact with the shellplate, correct? I've seen some conflicting information on this.
fuck all that, my hornaday lock and load i can do any caliber change in under 3 minutes from large to small primers, if i dont have to change primer size the caliber change is seriously i can do it in about a little over a minute.
Beware! I’ve been trying to get a question answered as a person who has purchased an X-10 for three days and no one at Frankford is getting back to me despite leaving several messages requesting a call back and trying their electronic messaging system. Today no one is even answering the phone at Frankford inside business hours. I wish I could cancel my purchase. Makes me wonder if these folks have gone out of business.
just bought the hand primer and the de primer. Never been so frustrated using the hand primer on my 45 colt brass. destroyed almost 20 primers out of 100 as they were going in canted. the shell holder seems very loose and allows brass to move all over. tried 3 different brass same thing on all 3 very dissapointed, how ever the deprimer is great, i may take this back to cabelas and see if its just mine or maybe buy another hornady which it took me ten years to wear out.
I just reloaded 40 Hodgson 223 cases 40 times. When I hit 20 reloads 20 cases had to be thrown out due to that ring near the bottom of the case plus with a screw driver I could feel a ridge inside the case. By 30 reloads another 10 more cases thrown out. Between 30 and 35 reloads 5 more cases thrown out but due to split necks. At 40 still have 5 cases good for reloading. Next I took 40 Lapua 223 cases and so far after 31 reloads not one case thrown out.
Setting my rifle rounds and it kept going from too long to to short in the most minute turns of the die. Kept measuring and measuring using cannelure bullets and finally without me realizing it was happening I saw the bullet move when measuring. All in the cannelure, which I’ve never had a problem with before. I could push and pull it in easily which made me realize I needed a crimping die. Is that all that does is crimp or is it a reloading station. Never mind I can look it up on the phone I hold🤦♂️
is there any issues with the priming system, i heard bad things about the priming. also what's your thought between this and Apex 10 ignoring price difference thanks
Maybe someone can comment on this, I usually don’t crimp but when I so ( I don’t have a crimp die) I will throw my sizing die back in the press, remove the decapping pin, and run the bullet up until a barely feel the case neck start engaging the die, when I pull it down there will be that same nice little shiny ring and a nice light crimp (I think) on the mouth of the brass. Am I wrong for doing this ?
I was going to buy another brand progressive. Well I had not realized the smart engineering that went into this. As a design guy myself I was digging the balance not just in one area was it thought through but seems like 9 out of 10 areas. Well here comes the big test using it.
I just cut 6 pieces of plastic coat hangers (1/4" round) to lay in each crease of the jug. Will be hot gluing them in place right after I scratch the inside up real good. Then I will try adding layers of plasti-dip or some type of rubber coating for porches/decks. This should make the cases tumble quietly.
At a minimum, decap and swage before you tumble. If the brass is fairly clean (no mud or dirt caking), go ahead and full length size then clean to remove the sizing lubricant and pocket dirt.
Is there a way to easily empty the powder measure at the end of a loading session without losing the adjustments? It appears that you have to either remove the measure or the tool head to dump the powder.
