This is me telling you what I've learned, fixed or am working on. I prefer to be in the garage with my tools and bikes seeing how things work, just like my dad did when I was a kid. Unlike some I'm not a mechanical or electrical engineer so i'm not going to have the benefit of their superior knowledge. I hope you learn something to take away though, and if you post a comment I hope I learn something too.
my Ignition coil primary is giving 0.8 ohms and the secondary giving 4.36 kilo ohms, i tested for sparks against the body two spark plugs, all not working. Do i need to change the ignition coil?
If the gaps are in spec then you are still good to go. What are your plans for the bike once it’s rebuilt? Touring Europe every year? Then bite the bullet and get new rings or occasional runs out to classic bike events then the original rings subject to ‘ring gap’ will be just fine. Best of luck.
Yeah you’re probably right there mate, it’s just concern old rings meet old barrels, not matched up, but should be ok. I’ll gap them before putting them in see how they look. I do about 6 or 7,000 miles a year usually so the engine does need a good helping hand. But if I get any issues, I can remove it again and sort it so never going to be a massive problem. Thanks for the help.
Yeah some I review are 67mm, these are 70mm, but hopefully I’ll find someone with a bit of knowledge to assist. I guess it’s also the differences in ring types, gaps, scraper rings, edges etc that also has to be factored in.
@@enrico48353 servicing is quite simple on this bike, front cylinder spark plug on the left can be difficult to access, but doable without taking too much apart
Hi, nice video friend, I love the old bike and I do the same hobby of you. Iou had a trouble by the exhaust nuts, I suggest you to change it by a tall brass nuts. They never will oxide in hot and cold and will be easy to remove in case. Regards Piero from Italy.
That’s a good idea, the main issue is of course stainless steel when it meets aluminium. But this was iron oxide over 40 years I guess. Thanks for the tip, I will very likely give that a try.
She is, and I’m looking forward to getting back to the mechanics of it, the next video will be painting etc. I’m going to be doing some racing colours on the side cases use as accents, and can’t make my mind up on bare alluminium or silver paint for the clutch, stator cover and rockers.
Well, in a sense yes, due to the position of the calliper, water wells up, but the bike is 23 years old, I have no idea how long the calliper has been on there without an overhaul, so it’s to be expected really. Good luck with the rebuild, I’d be interested to hear what method you use to remove the stuck pistons.
@@memybikeni9931 My 02 FZS 600 has such a dirty caliper on the rear, despite most of the bike being fine. Definitely a design flaw, I'm treating it to some nice Brembo (red set) rear pads and Brembo long life front pads (white set) which I think should work out well with the K&N Air filter to compliment the K&N Oil filter I already installed. Coming together nicely with the aftermarket short levers and LED front & rear arrow indicators Always awesome to see people rebuilding components instead of buying new. I wish I didn't need new front brake discs but one of them has a warp so rip, there goes £320 or so 😂
Hey Rich! Thank you for you very interesting and useful videos! Got my Virago running again but with a little issue. The engine is making knocking sounds on the heads but running fine. Got both cylinders and heads timed properly as far as possible. Both were either half a tooth of to the left of the center point or half a toot of the right. The Valves i adjusted with 0.15 on exhaust and 0.10 on inlet. Do you have any ideas what could cause this noise? Carbs i didn't do anything on because they were perfectly fine before. Hope you'll have some ideas, thank you in advance!
I ended up leaving the rear cylinder head sprocket half a tooth before the center dot and the front cylinder head sprocket half a tooth over the center dot and she's running like a sun now! Thanks a lot Rich! Really fun "working together"! And thank you for your quick replies!
It’s an Hitachi carb, so neither. And I’m not sure what the jet sizes were, I bought it and threw it on, without fettling. Given the lack or air box, straight through pipes and the fact it was serving front and rear cylinders with different fuelling needs, it it quite hard to manage with jetting.
Yeah everything except the crank cases are all stripped and cleaned, including the cylinder heads which I have just done some valve work on. I’m about to upload that video in a bit. The crank cases need to have a bit of a clean up, and there’s a little corrosion that needs removing, but essentially everything is ready to mask up and paint. I’m going to leave the side covers bare aluminium I think with some Honda Racing colour stripes, on the Finns of the heads and detail on the covers. May work, maybe not, I’ll give it a try. Main thing is getting the engine back together and working properly, that’s the challenge, the carbs are a faff on this bike, and I’m not good with carbs.
Yes i think it was and I’m not joking, it stank like wood gloss. I have completely stripped the rocker covers, side cases and heads of paint, and I’m am replacing the crank cases, which I need to tidy up, and then it will all get repainted in VHT Black, with the side cases left aluminium with some Honda Racing colours thrown in. Just finishing the clean up, and waiting on parts for the re assembly. Hoping it looks nice, and the main thing, hoping the rebuild fixes the main problem being it had low compression in number 2 cylinder, water in the crank case, and white smoke. Once I’m happy it’s all fine the body work will need attention, not to mention the forks and brakes. Big job…
@@barrythatcher9349 the head gasket looked in very bad shape, it wasn’t able to be removed in one piece so probably where the issue lay. Water in the crank case and compression issue, almost certainly the head gasket. It wasn’t extremely low, but relative compression was 20psi difference, and fluids in the crank case says it all.
So who knew that a double nut method would outdo a purpose-built tool. As they say keep it simple. Keep up the good work and looking forward to the next instalment of VF 750.
Thanks, yes I’m not sure why the purpose built tool is complicated as it is, assuming I’m using it correctly. The rest of the studs were taking it with the engin in the bike when removing the exhausts. Then it was welding on nuts to remove stuck studs as they were so bent the flange of the exhaust downpipes wouldn’t slip off.
@@barrythatcher9349 Yes that’s all it is. Last video I did was removing a tricky sheered off bolt from the lower crank case. This was a lot gentler, and smarter. Very effective. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rxVaZSMQWvc.html
@@barrythatcher9349 thank you, appreciate your comment. Settled into putting music over the videos as some of the footage can be sped up, silenced and the music takes over, so good footage doesn’t get lost. Works well I think.
Interesting isn’t it, you worry about a 2 quid screwdriver getting damaged, when it can easily go in the bin or be re sharpened, hardened and tempered back, or be replaced with a 100 other screw drivers laying around the workshop. You can use what ever your OCD demands, I’ll just use a pointy sharp thing that fits. Engine saved, a small price paid or not as it didn’t sustain any damage. Good luck with your projects if you have any on the go, I’m always keen to learn what others are doing. 😊
Excellent video series, thank you so much for documenting this process. If you only need split the case to get at the transmission, what do you reakon the minimum amount of components would need to be removed? Is removal of the heads absolutely necessary?
Yes mate as some of the case bolts are inaccessible without he heads off. I’m in the process of cleaning up all the cases, and hopefully soon will get the rebuild under way.
What a bastard of an engine to work on! I've never rebuilt a 750F before, but have done a 1000F. It all looks similar....Now? I'm going to do a VFR750 engine, in the near(ish) future. Great videos, mate. Keep them up. Love your work.
doesnt know how to test each diaphragm by blowing air into oval-shaped hole on intake side so he wastes alot of time. not a pro. is he using JIS screwdrivers ?
What on earth are you talking about ? Diaphragm is torn, doesn’t need testing, needs replacing. What makes you think I don’t know how to test ? “”Not a pro” correct, welcome pro RU-vid. “Is he using JIS screwdrivers” no, I’m using screwdrivers that fit old screws and for diaphragm replacements, I’m not using any. Not sure what video you’ve been watching 😂
Hey Rich, i have a question concerning my 535. She was running perfectly fine with power and now problems whatsoever until she started spitting oil from the exhaust, lost power and started running like shite. The sparkplugs are obviously full of oil and I'm removing the engine from the bike at the moment. What should I be looking for, valve seats or piston rings? I'm not planning to redo the whole engine since she was running perfectly fine before but also don't want to forget anything important before putting it back on the bike. Thank you in advance!
If you haven’t actually removed the engine yet, before doing anything else, do a compression test, so you can see which block is the issue, which will save a lot of initial disassembly. A basic leak down test to see where power is being lost. If compression is going out into the crank case, then likely broken or worn rings. Valve seats won’t be an issue, issues with them will just lose compression, not cause oil to get in anywhere, if you mean valve stem seals, that generally only produces a little blue smoke on start up, it wouldn’t cause oil loss though the exhaust. That is likely getting into the cylinders through the head gasket, broken or worn rings or a crack somewhere in the block. So do a compression test, identify where the issue is, take the head off, inspect the head gasket, which is a 3 ply metal gasket, and at the point if all is ok, then you will need to go lower into the engine. With then engine out, and heads off, put each cylinder into bottom dead centre, and pour petrol in, see how quickly it disappears into the crank case. If one is rapid and one is slow, it’s rings. It could just be the head gasket, or maybe a hole in the piston crown possibly, but you can check that with a quick look down the plug hole. Let me know how you get on.
Thank you for your quick reply! I'll get a compression test set first and go from there. Since there is oil on both spark plugs I have a strong feeling I'll be working on both heads. I'll keep some updates on the progress and your videos will provide most of the information needed. I'm really thankful for the information you provide!
@@dylantendoornkaat6155 probably just worn rings. Question though, if you haven’t compression tested it yet, what makes you think power is down ? Sluggish ? That could be air/fuel, carbs needing a service. Worn rings on both sides not a major drama if your using the bike regularly, it’ll burn off more than it leaves sitting in the cylinder.
Well, when I started her up cold she was spitting oil and I lost power whilst it was riding perfect before so I think it's the valve stem seals on both cylinders. Since both spark plugs were full of oil I just decided to take the engine apart and check both the seals and rings. Now I didn't find any problems on the pistons, tested with some gasoline and it all stays on top without bubbling. Waiting for the tool to remove the valves and the gasket set meanwhile I'll be cleaning all the old gaskets off(what a hell of a job) and then we're back on track! Your videos are really helpful!🤘🏻
@@dylantendoornkaat6155 could be stem seals, just a bit severe to be spitting oil. What happens in first start up, as oil runs down the stems, it gets burnt off on start up, but then disappears. If oil burning continues, it isn’t usually seals. Maybe check the head for runout, may be warped.
what bike is that coil off ? I'm looking for a smaller coil to replace the standard 12 volt Lucas type . That looks about right as it has a primary of more than 3.5 ohms .
Hi you are right really nice bike to ride, I would just like to point out that when you do a oil change apart from running the engine up till its warm you need to have it on the side stand when draining down and on the main stand when filling up. You probably know that anyway. long live the Deauville 😀
Yeah I don’t know why I didn’t, but in reality it makes little difference, the engine is level, it wouldn’t make a lot of difference, but best practice and all that.
Do my eyes deceive me? It also appears that the spring clip was on backwards? Open end was facing up which from the camera angle would suggest it would be going forwards on the top run of the chain. I hope the VF750 hasn’t broken you yet? I think if you were to be honest with yourself it was clear from the outset that it would be a rather large mountain to climb. Keep it shiny side up in the meantime. 👍
So I don’t know of any study that shows the direction of the clip makes a difference, but it’ll be coming off anyway, so no matter. When I bought the VF750 I didn’t know the extent of the issues. Bought it as a runner, it wasn’t, replaced the starter got it running, then discovered low compression and coolant in the crank case, but I’m getting there. Just cleaning up the cases at present then assessing what I need.
Thanks for the tip, tbh a service of the pump may help, and a mod to the pressure release valve. I have seen other mods running a line straight to the top of the engine off the filter housing, but who knows. Good maintenance is key.
If your cams last longer than 30000km you did not get a defective cam. My 1985 is at 60000km with no oil or am issues. My 1983 had 57000km with no cam or oil issues. I think the person used gloss black plastic dip paint…
Yep, the cams don’t look too bad actually having pulled the engine apart. Regarding the paint it did smell like wood gloss, when I managed to get the engine running it just bubbled up. I am going to be replacing the crank cases, but have already stripped the terrible paint of most of the rest of the side cases and rocker covers etc. getting there slowly.
As a rider of a 1985 vf750f your bike was on the verge of being a parts bike for another vf750f. But your tlc is doing the job to make it an awesome bike once more! I will download all these videos and keep them on an SD card with the repair manual!
Yeah that it was, and I’m determined to make it into my daily rider. It’s a massive job, the calipers are all stuck, the forks need rebuilding, the clocks replacing or making good as they are Rev limited for the Japanese market, and the less said about the bodywork the better. I’ve already cleaned the tank which looks great inside now.
Yes you’re right, looking at it though, 2:58 there is a white plastic rim in the lid, that may be literally it, it’s only meant to secure the diaphragm. This is a 1984 (70s) machine so likely that’s it.
Yes you’re right, looking at it though, 2:58 there is a white plastic rim in the lid, that may be literally it, it’s only meant to secure the diaphragm. This is a 1984 (70s) machine so likely that’s it
It has been wonderful to follow you in every detail of each episode. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and helping me rebuild my father's motorcycle! Huge hug from Guadalajara, Mexico
