Very useful video , can you tell us what's the name of the tool you use to send 12v to the relay ? The red one with the button in the middle ? Thank you 🙏
Hi guys , I have the same problem Ford Custom 2.2 love it , but hard starting when getting hot , been in the garage 1 week . Test Injectors Test Fuel Pump , Relay fuses Still the same problem , I have been told to change the high pressure pump No idea what to do 😢
Hi! Excellent job! May I ask you which pin of the relay did you connect to batterie + to start? Sorry, I didn't understand because I'm no native english speaker. Thx!
If you have a soldering iron it's worth trying to fix the switch yourself. Remove the switch and open, it's only clipped together. On the PCB there are 4 little cube shaped light sensitive switches with a slot in them, one side is a LED light source, the other is a light sensor, when selecting different gears a piece of plastic moves between the slots either allowing or blocking the light beam. It is likely that the solder on one of the four corners of one or more of these switches has cracked and needs to be re-melter or re-soldered. You can probably work out which sensor is at fault by moving the black plastic bit up and down as the lever would. I would thoroughly recommend solder containing lead as the most common reason for this type of failure in the first place is lead free solder being used in manufacture! The fault should clear the second time you switch the ignition on.
Hello! Can you please tell me how the adblue level is calculated on this model? Is there a sensor somewhere? I have my tank fullfilled after a 700 KM message, but even after 300km since the tank refilled, the message still doesn't dissapear, the count still goes down and show less kilometers. No other error, and the car communicates with the module, i tested the injector unit, the pump, all test where succesfull. The only problem is level, but I don't know how is it calculated or measured. Thank you!
My car is c220d 2016 on kick down that code pops up and goes into limp mode what do you think it is mate i put cheap fuel in the car once like an idiot and the car wouldnt start got all the old diesel took out put fresh diesel in the car started up but now everytime kick down the car goes into limp mode mate please help if you can
Hi, I have a trafic 2017 bi turbo with "DTCC59E87" Adblue Dosing Module Computer, missing message on code reader. I am being told Renault can only resolve? Do you have any advice? Thanks
It just needs someone to go through do various tests to confirm power ground can signals to module. Pretty common failure for various corroded wires Regards
Hey could you help with a similar issue, 2010 Insignia elite, moved off one morning and straight away the ABS/ESP lights come one. The code is coming back as C0040-0F right front wheel speed sensor erratic. Without having access to live data i thought id go for cheapest option and changed the abs sensor but fault reoccurs. What is the chance of this being a faulty wheel bearing? this car has no reluctor ring. Ps can you confirm, when it says right front, is that right as you sit in the drivers seat or right as you look from the front of the car. Thankyou
Hey, I'm just wondering, if the adblue is mapped out would the van still have this issue? Did you have to reset the adblue somehow before allowing you to start since the mileage counter got to 0.
If someone incorrectly mapped it then potential for count down to still count yes. How ever me starting it is just as in video it will start. If it’s reached zero and still starting ok then likely to have been remapped. There is some specialised coding that can be done to code dash Board not to show that message any longer if that’s case Regards
This is where I am with my Vivaro, I’ve had to hook up a jumper cable to the relay to start the van! Where you work from? How does one book your services mate?
Wow by a stroke of luck ive just found this video...I have a 2020 Citroen Relay, I've noticed that the wing mirrors were replaced in the paperwork history a while ago, probably after market. My outside temperature gauge doesnt seem to be working, & the engine fan seems to be working a lot at high speeds which seems a bit lould, cuts out though when I gnition is turned off, coolant levels etc are fine..is it possible that this might be my problem.? Many thanks for posting.
@@acautotech7231 Man it was exactly that, after seeing your first post, I had another look at my mirrors & at the drivers side, the temp sensor was missing (after market mirrors with no sensor) my engine fan had been running like a harrier jump jet.. So I bought an after market wing mirror (with temp sensor). Problem now gone 🤞. So for sure this is one to look out for folks. Thanks again bud 👍
Hi mate, are you based locally in Liverpool? My 2011 Citroen C4 had a Gearbox Fault warning message yesterday, it wouldn’t select reverse, just moved forward, when I turned the engine off, it wouldn’t start again with my foot on the brake as usual. I tried several times, then it started and I drove home. I really need my car and I’m worried this will happen again. Would you be willing to check if it’s the actuator or some other fault? I’m near St Helen’s in Whiston. Thanks mate 👍🏼
Hi mate I’m located on Wirral. If Google business name or picture on here my phone number is there drop me a message. Only issue being I’m booking a good few weeks ahead at moment. But happy to arrange to get looked at if needed Regards Adam
wow. This technique is very cool. First time I seen that. what current clamp are you using, also what is the maximum point(how far)that you can be away from the module to pick up the current signal? And my last question, I couldn't understand, what you was saying on the video, how much was the current on the laptop screen. I subscribed immediately.
Thank you so much for posting this video with the main theme being helping others. It is awesome to see the topics we discuss and the applications shared being used at the coal face to help diagnose problems in the real world. Thank you again as these videos can take ages especially when you are filming, narrating and using the equipment all at the same time
Very clever idea. So, as you show, the current clamp tells you when the packet is coming from the module you are next to. In your video, you were getting pull-downs even when the module you were next to was NOT talking, so you knew that module wasn’t causing the problem. You’d keep doing that, ticking off as good, all those modules that don’t cause the pull down. Eventually, you’ll come to the module that shows the pull-down every time it talks, and the pull-down never occurs when the module is silent. At that point, you know you’ve found the dodgy module. Correct? Very clever use of the current clamp. Am I right in thinking you were lucky that plugging your breakout box into the DLC allowed you to see ALL the CAN traffic, because with some CAN topologies, where a gateway is involved, you cannot see all the CAN traffic from the DLC, in which case you’d need to access each module (or pierce the CAN wires) to pick up CAN High and CAN Low at the module? Have you used the clamp in a similar ingenious way anywhere else other than on CAN networks?
Yes that’s correct and unfortunately this has gateway module so case wiring diagram figure can topology out and what modules are on what network and then attack it from there
I’m sorry but I’m confused. If the module that has the drop out has current it’s the bad module. But you have drop outs in the scope from other modules?Wouldn’t one of those still have current if you were clamped in? Please explain if I’m seeing it incorrectly. Ps i love this new approach. Just need to fully understand it. Thank you
The current flow is nothing to do with it being bad. current flows in good modules too. When you have a bad can signal we want to know which module. You have to work out area ti start looking and pin down this works by you put clamp near that and as current flows that data packet is for that module. So in this vehicle data was faulty for several modules on left hand side if car this helped me section vehicle down quickly and find a bad can block. I hope this helps if not I will try get some time and do another video
I have this exact same problem, sensor is missing and I have an error code for it. Can you remember what the resistance rating was in the decade box and which 2 pins in the 4 pin plug you connected to? I just want to connect a resistor across it as a temporary fix till I can get hold of the thermistor sensor . If I can fool it into thinking its +10 rather than -40 that'll do for now. I have some aircon and general running issues and as this is the only fault code I havn't cleared I'm hoping this will sort it.
I can’t sorry if you pause video and zoom in you might be able to work out what it is. I believe sensors available seperate on internet. And it’s two pins from grey plug
@@acautotech7231 Sorted it in the end, got the wiring diagram from Fiat ELearn and connected a 10k pot across the grey/red and grey/green. I can set it to whatever the outside temp is more or less and the last and final fault code is gone at last. It'll do till I can get hold of a mirror👍
So basically, because it's just one packet dropping out that's confirmed it's a single module. Then using the current flow lined with the CAN transmitted it can be identified. Current flow lines with good node all ok Current flow lines with drop out that's the bad module.
Sorry mate, I don't see which module is being ID'd, I love the amp clamp test but I still need to go locate and bypass (my style) the suspected module CAN in to out lines, to verify no more amp increase when bypassed, cheers.
So the one where the current rises is that module. As that data packet and current. If clamp is next to that module then that one with issues. Then you can move along and be x,y,z modules are all being affected. In this case was left hand side of vehicle. Then a faulty can block was found Helped section vehicle down. Hope that explains it better
Yes it was actually corroded in 3 places a really bad attempt by someone else to fix too with extra connector and poor pin contact so was quite a fun one
@@acautotech7231 thanks. I’ve been tracing a few of my cables due to a no crank (spoke with you on Vivaro owners) and today I’ve found corrosion in the multi plug connector in the under bonnet fuse box. The wiring connector going to the negative on the adblu relay (beige wire) was green and cruddy in the multi plug. It was still working though so haven’t found my problem but I might have avoided a future no crank by cleaning this up. Thanks again for your input.
