You, Sir, have brought me joy, relief and peace of mind all at once with this great video. That C5750 has been shouting at me "get fucked loser, pay money to my daddy oki!!" for the past week,all the while refusing to budge and blinking its sniggering light of drum death at me. I've tried it all... Admin menu tweaking, fiddling with wires and connectors, anything that doesn't involve spending any money basically. And then I found your vid, poked the bastard with the multimeter and finally showed it who's boss!! And it's all thanks to you. Best wishes for 2024, thank you for your video!! ❤
I've been doing a bit of research into the fusible links and resetting these drum counters etc. It seems there is another fuse buried in the guts of the printer which feeds current to all of the fusible resistors in the drums. The problem is that this fuse is not particularly highly-rated and seems to be designed to operate if more than one drum is replaced at a time. The actual fusible link you are simulating by putting the multimeter in place is only rated at 63mA. If you replace more than one drum unit at the same time, the main fuse will operate at something like 100mA and the printer won't work and you are to coin a phrase buggered! You are taking a big risk of blowing that fuse by using a multimeter like you are. To replace the failed fuse on the main PCB is a big job, requires a lot of major dismantling of the printer and takes several hours if you know what you're doing apparently. I'm going to buy some of the very-fast acting wire-ended miniature 63mA fuses made by Littlefuse which Oki use in the drum units. They're a couple of £ each, but a damn site cheaper than buggering the printer for the sake of a couple of quid!
Yes but you can reset only one drum at a time with multimeter other drums still remain open , and you dont't need to worry if you don't replace them with new ones and want to prolong the life of the old ones.
@@0markopolo0 I fully understand what you're saying regarding resetting one drum at a time. The problem is that connecting a low-impedance multimeter in place of the fuse significantly increases the risk of passing more than the 63mA it would take to operate the drum fuse and the possibility of blowing the protection fuse on the main PCB. You are relying on your reaction time to disconnect the meter quickly enough before the main fuse operates. In light of what I now know, I am not going to risk buggering my printer for the sake of spending a couple of quid on the correct fuses. Maybe you have been lucky, but I'm not going to take the risk.
I did it many times and didn't have any issue and I have also tried menwhile what you have proposed in your coment and had the multimeter connected until the end and nothing happened . But I'm at no means not triying to convince anyone to do it it is just an option among the other ones as you mentioned you can purcase the fuse and solder it .
@@0markopolo0 OK on your experiments and experience, but as I've just bought my printer cheaply because it needs 2 drums resetting, I'm going to buy the fuses and do it that way. Good luck and best wishes.
Hi, I presume the device used in the drum is actually a fusible resistor possibly an SMD chip resistor 1/10th watt or similar. I will have to investigate but your idea of monitoring the current at start-up when the system checks the status of all the consumables and blows the fuse to record the new status makes it very easy to cheat - When you know how. Thanks for the gen!
This is a genius idea... When I tried my fancy digital Multimeter, I found it would accept random radiation from all the electronic units I have nearby when on milliamp setting. The best solution was to use an analogue cheapy meter. When i tried i was pleasantly surprised that the meter went full scale deflection - removed the crocodile clip. Instant reset of the Drum. First time I have got this method to work !!!!!!! THANKS
No I mean only the metal hand with the 2 wires one red one blue. They are connected on the back side to the controller. The part you put on the board to measure the temperature.
