Quite an informative video, having done a Wallis casting video many years ago for the old questoutdoors website and my own channel recently, I'll interject a few things. The modified wallis cast is not a wallis cast, its a pull cast just one of the many variations of a pull cast. The real Wallis Cast is the "European" style, originated by FWK Wallis, there are many great videos on this cast on the youtube. My other observations while using this cast exclusively is slow and steady wins the race. Timing is everything. I also prefer a bushing reel such as the JW Young Trudex II, its super smooth and doesnt have the startup speed as the Colville or the other bearing reels and i think the speeds these reels generate can be a hinderance. I also found a slower action rod such as a lower modulus graphite, glass, or split cane (i prefer split cane for my Wallis casting, it slower and much smoother). The real Wallis cast can be quite confusing your hands are in unnatural positions which can make it a very unweildly cast. Ill try to explain it (from a lefty pov)..... first grip the handle just aft of the reel seat using your thumb to brake the reel.... then using your opposite hand palm facing down cup the split shot close to the pinky and ring fingers..... then with the hand you are holding the shot with use that thumb and hook the line.... from there you simultaneously pull the line off the reel drop the shot ( the reel will be spinning at this point) as you are doing this you smoothly sweep the rod forwards towards the target. It's all timing and as you said in the video muscle memory. Great video filled with good information.
Great tips. I find heavier weights do help with casting distance. If the float and weight in my setup is too light, and because I'm still getting used to the speed, I often pull the line off the reel too fast and overspin it, causing more line to come out and easily causing a bird nest. So what I learned is to start slow with pulling out line and gradually increasing the force/speed until you get an optimal casting distance.
I got a tool with a card and qr code linked to this video. Unfortunately, the tool I got only allows the round part to be installed over the first lip and then does not allow me to align with the spline when installing the bearing. Any thoughts?
I might suggest that after you use the o-ring idea [ which is great!! ] I would 'cheat' that mark maybe 1/8" further in so you are certain the alignment tool isn't bottoming on the engine coupler before the bearing is in all the way. In other words it's quite possible to be a bit off when you drill that hole so error the way it won't matter. Just my 2 cents.
From one Clark to another, thanks for the video. I'm changing gimble bearings on twin outdrives. No instructions came with my bearing tool set. The o-ring on the shaft is a great idea.
I bought it as a complete kit directly from MBS Manufacturing. They also will sell individual parts. Look under their menu under Marine Flywheel Pullers and tools. They have several models for specific makes and models of lower units.
I would think you could still use the same procedure. Just understand that you will need to add the thickness of the bearing plus 1/4" to find where the drive block will need to be on the alignment tool.
Awesome design. I was debating whether to build something similar or just man handle my Alpha drive. I'm glad I made the decision to run to the hardware store for wood and spending 2 hours constructing a stand. I had a harbor freight dolly that is now being put to use! Thank you for taking the time to make this video.
Mr Steven Clark Thank you so much your video inspired me to make one as i have to replace my gimbals bearing and bellows awesome awesome easy to build and use, i don't have to break my back anymore !!!!
You have. Done the best video I have ever seen so well done. I don't know why but no sound when your showing how to take the gimble bearing out. Thanks Rich
Thanks, Sorry about the sound issue. This was a mistake I made on my camera settings using a separate microphone. There was no way to redo the footage so I just put some clips at the end.
Just wondering why you would not just leave the prop on and slide your great little stand in from the backside of the lower so that the open side would be towards your prop and negate the need for removing your prop every time. Just sayin. great stand idea.
go to Mercruiser School spend some time doing this for a livingand then make a video of what you know do you think Mercruiser made these bearings they didn't they came from a bearing suppliertheir housing that holds this bearing the outer transom plate was manufactured to take that size bearingand no matter what you say that bearing assembly can be purchased with bearing onlyif you don't agree with that you don't know what the hell you're talking aboutyou get one guy on here that buys alignment bar first bearing he probably ever put into in his life and he's going to tell you exactly how to do itthey make a project out of this and it's very simple to doI replaced probably a hundred of these bearings if not more and I never had one spin in the holder everthe only time I had to pull the carrier out of the transom plate was when somebody put it in the wrong way the two slots that you need to put the bearing into the carrier and roll it in
I strongly suggest you review Mercruiser Service Bulletin 85-26. It strongly contradicts everything you've stated here. Surely they taught you about Service Bulletins at Mercruiser School, right...?
I mean absolutely NO disrespect when I say this but I love old guy videos!! Y'all know all the tricks. Love the o-ring idea. I'll definitely remember that when I do my gimbal bearing here in a few weeks. Thank you very much!
Great video. Thanks!! Only thing I did different was to slide the alignment tool all the way in, push the install tool against the bearing, and then use a tape measure from the install tool to the end of the alignment tool to mark where to drill the hole. My drive calls for a sealed bearing, so it makes the job a little easier, but I probably have to change the bearing more often. The tool and this video makes it easy.
I was considering purchasing a boat with an I/O drive and just learned about the maintenance that needs to be done annually - it was daunting to consider removing the outdrive annually - but this idea of yours I'm sure will make it so much easier! Thank you!
How about if the bearing is burned out and welded to the shaft and there is nothing left of the bearing how do you find the place where the hole goes in the shaft?
I guess I would try to determine the placement by taking measurements. Put the alignment tool all the way in and see if you can get a good measurement from the housing. Then measure the housing to the bearing seat. Measure the bearing thickness. With all three of these you should be able to lay this out on the alignment tool to find where the drive ring should placed.
Did you cover loading the tip? Most Wallis casters recommend putting a bend in the rod tip with the same hand that pulls line off the reel. This springs the float forward at the same speed as the revolving drum. With slightly heavier tackle you can side cast by placing the free hand at 90 degrees to the spool, effectively turning the centrepin into fixed spool line release.
This video was great. I never would have had the insight to build an outdrive stand. I ended up building two for my twin-engine boat. Saved my back, my outdrives and my sanity!
I actually had a friend do that work for me. There are several methods described on the web and RU-vid. Try searching for cross drilling hole on round stock.
@@mattycwell751 be careful putting the donut that far down the shaft . it should be up maybe 5 in from the tip. When it's down that far, the tool will reach the engine coupler , and if it's not completely aligned into the coupler , you will damage the couple when you hammer in the gimbal bearing. Now you'll have to pull the engine out
I have the same reel and struggle with the Wallace cast. Learned the BC cast but know I can improve range with the Wallace. I appreciate the video and will be carrying my centerpin around the house trying to replicate what you did. Grew up in Angola but reside in Richmond. Make a trip to WNY every October. Hope to master it by then. Thanks for sharing.
This is a great video for explaining a tool that arrived with no instructions. I have a full machine shop and not knowing I had to drill the alignment shaft made for some initial confusion. Obviously easily corrected after watching this video.
I tried to explain in my comments what happened. Unfortunately when I was recording doing the actual work, I forgot to turn on the microphone on my camera. I think you'll agree that it would make no sense to tear things back apart to refilm with sound. So I had to film a new segment with sound and then splice some footage in without sound at the end. Not ideal, but I thought it still may help someone.
Awesome. I think boatingmag .com stole your blueprints as you published 2 years earlier. Great stuff!! I like the rolling seat too seated. So easy on your back.
