nice ! I'm new to Carrera, but I didn't know you could control multiple cars on 'one' controller without having to code them again. I code two Mustang GTY's on each cotroller. My Corvette and GT40 are coded to the same cotrollers( one on each). Then if you're racing with someone else you can race the Mustangs or the Corvette vs GT40 or Mustang/GT40 etc. without re-coding. Probably nothing new but I've never heard anyone talk about that. I picked up 2 extra controllers and have several cars coded like that so I can run several different cars against each other without re-coding each time. I have 3 cars coded to a couple of controllers...Just a thought, have a great week...
I would recommend before you buy more cars you either purchase or build your own shoulders, Yue can use mdf or even laminate flooring if you have some leftovers. Both cut easily.
That's a real nice looking truck! I dont have any of the racing trucks, so I'm looking forward to seeing your video review of it, along with the other one you have arriving. I've had my eyes on this truck and the green one. Have fun!
Hi Bobby, watchin your maintenance and tire trueing clips tells me you are a greenhorn in these things. RU-vid is full of clips like that, where beginners try to show how to do it. Well, you should have watched as many of those clips, as you could. There are some, that might do it right. Most just think they know what they are doing, but are totally wrong in their doings. Advanced slotcar drivers will grin, if they see your attempts, how to do it. Let me start here. Carrera 124`s are quite different compared to 132`s by Carrera. You`ve already noticed that, I saw. For the maintenance you definetly need a good Phillips No. 1 Screwdriver. That is a basic Tool and a must have one. If you want a good one, lok after the elctrical Drivers by WERA. Your electric Screwdriver may be comfortable, but you can damage more with it, than you think. Why? If you unscrew the Screws, that electric Tool is helpful. But often the Screws are very tightened by Carrera and those electric Drivers sometimes will not have the right torq to unscrew them. Some are too strong and will damage the Screw-Head than, trying to loosen the Screws. Now here comes the good old conventional PH1 into position. To untighten the Screws, you need it, to develop a feeling for the strenght of the tightened Screws. Loose the Screw and than maybe use the electric Driver to get it out. Now, to screw them back on, you will need the conventional PH1 to develop the feeling, that the Screws drives in very soft. Often they do drive into the windings very hard. At that point, you need to unscrew the Screw again and repeat the tightening process until the Screw drives in soft. If you use the electrical Driver, you will damage the winding and the cause will be, that the winding will be overscrewed.Than you will have a problem. You cannot develop the right feeling and torq to tighten the Screws with that electrical Driver, because its torq is too strong for the plastic winding. For driving the Srews slightly in, after the Screw gripped, that is a helpful Tool, if you suffer fro Arthrosis, for instance. If you tighten the Screw with that particular electrical Driver, set the torq to its lowest torq. But don`t drive the Screw in, until it is fully tight. Use the conventional Driver for that! If you use oil for the bearings, you will have to remove the whole front - and rear-axxlse, to avoid the oil getting in contact with the plastic parts. Oil and Plastic will not cope and will destroy the Plastic, although Plastic is a product made of Oil. THat goes for both scales! If you are scarred, or insecure to remove the 124 axxles, watch at the following YT sites, where you will be learning that. I will place them at the end. Now the most important thing in terms of oil. Do not, I repeat, do not put Oil on the gears!!! Use the lubricant inside the white injection shot. That is especially made for gearings! It often contains Teflon or other Materials, that are used for gearings. If you put Oil onto the gearings, yes you guessed it: The oil will fly all over your track and your inside bodies, due to the centrifugal forces. WE don`t want that to happen as slotcar racers!!! Remember, what I metioned about Oil and Plastic? If you put Oil on/into the bearing, avoid to smear the oil all over the axxles. That will attrack dust, hairs and other stuff, that will stick onto the axxles. We don`t want the either! Only Oil into the bearings. That is about it, with oil on your slotcar! Your grinding device is fine, but you could have saved that money from the beginning, using the board-method. You simply take a piece of sanding paper and tighten that on the track with painters tape, but avoid to put it onto the control unit. That way you, can grind the tires. One could also take a simple straight track piece and connect it to the plus and minus poles of the rails. Keep in mind, that the electric Poles are on digitals the other way around, than on analog rails, while being used driving. A power supply is requirred for that method though, but gives you the abillity, to use lowwr Voltage. That avoids the tires of being overheated and melting the natural rubber, of which those Carrera tires are made mainly. Once overheated, they are garbage. Than you also got one hand free to not push the controller with one hand down. But you already bought that grinding device, so go on with it. Make sure to start off 1st with sandpaper with 120 grain, until you won`t see any light spotts on the tire surface. Than move up to 180 or better 240 grain. The last should be 400 grain. Those are enough for Carrera tires. Different tire materials are being polished up towards 4000 - 7000 grain. But those are techniques by more serious racers. Do break the edges of the grinded tires with sand paper (400 Grain), of with a naill-file. They are availibale with different ghrain. Make the edges slightly round. That avoids the cars to derail in curves. Make sure to get yourself painters masking tape, that will not stick too heavy. This, you will need to clean the tires afterwards. Also you use it during the racing, when too much dust reduces the grip after maybe 10 - 20 laps. Those dust-rolls for clothing are often used, but believe me, the masking tape is better. You run the tires with its full surface over the tape and dust-rolls will only take a bit off, due to the curved roll. If you hold the tape, make sure to fold it over after 2 inches and stick it onto the tape underneath. Than proceed in the direction the tape is on the tape and roll the tires over it, with the full tire surface. That way, you get the tires cleaner, even if you used your tire cleaning pad. If you need more information, answer this comment and I will get to you, as soon as possible. Here are the RU-vid sites I mentioned. They are German and Austrian, but you can use the subtitle function, which often is a mess by YT, but watching them, learns more to unserstand the maintenance aspects there. Both also run a Shop for slotcars, but leave the out of sight for your learnings. 1. Slotblog 2. Slotcardrams Greetings from Germany 🙂
@@bobemigh9664 All fine Bobby. We all start from somewhere. We are humans and not machines. I did not ment that personal, neither did I try to put you down. I can help you out, if you need some informations, how to. I will tune in to your chanel from time to time and let my slick comments loose on you. 🙂 Just jokin`now. But seriously, I saw in your grinding device clip, you hadn`t clicked the track pieces well together. Many gaps were seen. Make sure, that the connections are tight fit. That way, you avoid power losses. Keep in mind, that Carrera recomends track lenghts up to 12 -15 meters, without any extra power supplies. That is 35 - 50 feet length. Madd Dadd is a member of our world wide slotcar community. He can give you some advice, too. We help each others out, to progress in this awesome hobby. Making mistakes is part of the experience we make. There are many negative folks around in social media. Don`t jump on their trains, by not taking those for granted. I got a lot of experience with Carrera systems of all kind. I started my 1st Carrera journey when I was about 12 years old. Now I am 60 and I am still learning, too. Stay in the slot Bobby and once again, many kind regards from Germany. I just sent you an e-mail. Check your mail-box. It might landed in your spam section, so check that out, too. Bjoern 🙂
What a beautiful car!! Nice move in picking up the Slot Invasion guides. They made a big difference for my 1:24 cars and also were very necessary for the Carrera Ford GTs in 1:32, where the stock guides would pop out of the slot at lane changers.
Nice layout and video, looks like someone is ready to have a lot of fun! If sanding the original rubber tires doesn't improve your cars to the level you are wanting, a good investment will be upgrading your rear tires to aftermarket silicone or urethane (I can't speak for silicone, since I've personally gone the urethane route). From what is pretty widely understood, silicone tires don't play well together with rubber or urethane, so if you do use silicone on the rear and keep the fronts (front tire replacements are MUCH more difficult or even impossible to find) original rubber, that may be an issue. A pair of urethane tires can be found pretty easily for about $4.50, and when I found out how much better they made the cars handle, I've equipped all my cars with them. Also, if you're not aware of SmartRace for Carrera Digital, that could be something that will MASSIVELY increase the enjoyment you get out of this. It's an app that has some amazing features, and the best part is it's pretty inexpensive, just a few dollars. Something to look into if you haven't already, and then that pit lane track will be the center of your universe with everything it can do with SmartRace! Enjoy!
The track layout looks good love the corkscrew. Look at videos sanding the stock tires on your track for more grip. This hobby can attack the wallet real quick. I don't have a pit lane, so I don't have input for you on that. Great video!
