HI, MY FRIEND NICE VIDEO AND NICE PROJECT ..BUT I AM STILL IN NEED OF HELP, I AM TRYING TO DO THE SAME ROOF BUT I HAVE HAD NO LUCK AT ALL ...EVEN WITH THE HELP OF THE WEBSITE THAT YOU MENTIONED ..THIS IS MY DILEMMA. I WANT AN 8-SIDED ROOF WITH THE RICE OF 8 CENTIMETERS AND THE RUN OF 10 CENTIMETERS, TOTALLY POINTY ON TOP ..BUT I TRIED THE BEVEL AT 11.3 DEGREES WITH NO LUCK,21.5 NOT LUCK..22.5 FAIL ..... ALL I NEED IS THAT BEVEL ON THE SIDE OF EACH PANEL--I AM USING PINE 2 CENTIMETERS THICK THANKS AND SORRY FOR BOTTERING YOU.
It is an issue but the web site should get you in the right cut and then the final angle cut as I did in the video. I would recommend that the top not be made out of wood. Over time the wood expanded, then shrank etc etc until the joints came apart. I now have used tar paper.
Yep, it is a very nice planer. The main reason I would choose this planner over the DeWalt is the planer head. The Cutech has the helix head and I can lock the head to minimize snipe. If the DeWalt came with a helix head I would probably still go with the Cutech because of the weight.
After a year in use I felt like I needed to update everyone that might be considering this build. Within a few months of placing the bird feeder outside the humidity caused the wood roof to expand and contract. Eventually there was a gap between two of the panels that and the bottom was at least a 1/2" wide. I was able to fill this gap with silicone grout and it held the two panels in place and expanded enough to keep the water out of the feed. This past summer it was very dry. When fall came the humidity came back and the panels just couldn't handle the drastic change. The panels bowed, buckled and split apart. I had to remove the feeder and replace the panels. I took off the braces under each panel and swapped out the wood panels to vinyl sheets I got from a yard sign. I used hot melt glue to put everything together then I cut 1" wide strips to cover the seam where each panel meets. So far so good.
Hi there quick question, If I was to paint my bird feeder white paint before assembling it, which form of glue would I use during assembling it, Wood glue still ? or another type ??, Thank you.
The roof will expand and contract quite a bit. At one point I had a good 1" gap between two of the roof slats. I put silicone caulk in the gap and it has held through all the movements. If I redid this feeder I would use silicone caulk to glue all the joints and cut the notches where the top sits on the platform a little looser. The top should sit loosely on the frame.
Looking at making a game like this and was searching for game pieces (horse and jockeys) but to no avail. I watched your build a while ago and got to say the final product turned out awesome. Might have to do something similar. 👍 well done.
to Babs11285 I lost one of your comments about how to mark the hole locations. Here is my response: "The spacing is a carpenters trick. If I want 5 evenly spaced holes and I want the for 1st and last holes to be one 1 inch from the top and the bottom of the field, I would place a measure between the 1st and last holes that was divisible by 5. I you place one end of the ruler at the first hole and the 10 (or 15 or 20) at the last hole you would mark a hole position every 2 inches (or 3", 4" in the case you used 15 or 20 as the location of the last hole). Also, using the 10 mark on the ruler you could make 2 holes every 5 inches (for lane 1 if you only want 2 hole instead of 3). Let's say the distance between the 1st and last holes is greater than 10 inches. In that case you would place the end of the ruler (zero) on the 1st hole mark and the 15 (or 20 or 25 etc.) at the last hole mark. Because the divisible number is greater than the length of the "field" you will need to angle the ruler to make the numbers fit. For the lanes with the large number of holes the angle of the ruler will be sharp and your evenly spaced hole marks will be off the lane. You can move the marks by placing a square on the edge of the board, aligning the square with your hole mark and move the mark to the proper lane. Hopefully, this makes sense to you."
Thank you for watching my video. Sorry if I wasn't clear on some of the parts. I wouldn't mind making you a set but I like to work on my own time schedule and that doesn't always work for people. Do you have set time you would want a board? I see you asked James Louis if he would make you a board also.
@@michaelhaynes9717 Hi Michael. You were very clear. I was watching this in the wee hours of the morning trying to digest everything because I contemplated making one myself. I realized I would be in way over my head because I have no tools/drills etc and I'm not going to just go out and buy tools just for this one project. Plus with no craftsmanship background working with wood, I would get frustrated and it wouldn't be fun for me. I got the "Across the Board" horseracing track (similar to your design) but I really want a bigger homemade one made with all wood/painted pieces . I even watched your box you made to store the pieces in. I would want one of them too. :) There would absolutely be no rush or set time as to when I would want it since I could just use the one I have now when I play. Even if you need a year or two would be fine. I totally understand working on your own time and schedule. I know when I feel pressure/rushed I lose the passion for it and then would become a chore. Yes, I did ask James Louis too because I love both of yours (searching for homemade racetracks on a youtube search) and was a way for me to put out feelers if anyone would be willing to make one for me. I'd gladly retract my request on that video. Ballpark figure...how much would it cost (materials, labor, shipping) for everything do you think?
I was just looking on Etsy for prices and found them to be very favorable to the consumer. I suggest you go to the web site: acrosstheboardgame.com. They have good prices and are set up to ship their products. I'm really not set up for handling sales. Thank you for your interest.
If the 2 horse lane and the 12 horse lane is suppose to have 2 holes per line and the finish line being the 3rd, why do you have 3 holes drilled in those lanes plus the finish line hole making it 4? I am just a little bit confused.
If you want the exact probability of each roll of 2 dice you can take a look at: www.omnicalculator.com/statistics/dice. You will find for example that the odds of rolling a 2 or a 12 is .02778. You could use 2 holes or round up to 3. This distribution for each number showing up on the two dice results in the number of holes cut in the board.
Eric I haven't regretted my purchase of this machine. Before I had the CuTech I had a General Machine with a helical head. This machine is much better. With all the machines I've had this one is the only one that minimizes the end snipe.
I use the machine almost every day. All I have in my shop is rough lumber so between my jointer and this planner they really get a workout. I've even cut back on the use of my drum sander because of this machine. At this point I haven't changed the blades and I'm still getting very good results.
