ok. I'm back again. Did everything, but Everything is so different than everything I saw here on RU-vid. -- I Connect the yellow hose to the Can Tap Valve, so when I closed came a little gas, then open I heard the same, so I assume was ready, then purge the hose and fill like air, but it was air, I didn't see any gas, or liquid, or something you know? I hope I didn't put air inside. -- Now it came this: Open low side on the gage and it was too slow, like nothing so I turn the can upside down and it was the only way I could see something happening, Liquid. So, the needle on low side when a little up. I gave it a little time, then start the car, A/C on. I keep doing the same thing Up and down: 12 o'clock and 3 o'clock and sometime upside down. -- The first can feel like never get cold, too slow, and at the end feel like still has more. I close and open several times the can tap valve but I when to inside the car and was cooling, not so much. Then I disconnected the first can and it blows gas and never stop until get empty. Once you open that can will not close, anyway. Connected the second one and purged, the needle on low side stays almost in the same place, it moves very slow, and high side almost 200. Today was 90-degree Fahrenheit. -- So, the second can almost stay full after moving it open closed, etc. I close the valve and when to inside the car and Walla: like 42 degrees. I starter with 84 degrees. -- Well, I hope I didn't push air inside the system. Everything so far is working fine. I will test it at night and check again with my other gage. -- Ok, I just tested. the car is doing fine. A/C cooling up to 42 degrees. The gage shows me only 32 or 33 psi low side but is working. it's in the green zone.
Thanks for the update. Some of those can valves are junk, they may be hard to tell if Freon is coming out. Freon is invisible and mostly odor free. I open the gauge low side with engine running and then turn the can valve until I see movement on the low side gauge, then adjust the pressure on the gauge knob to up to about 35, depending on temp. I know it’s slow and temptation is to turn can upside down, but that’s dangerous to compressor. It sometimes takes up to 20 minutes to empty a can. I’m glad it’s blowing cold for you, and thanks again for updates
I don't know why my compressor never stop. I heard people saying the compressor stop and start, but mine never stop. I never see it stopping when is working. not even the old one.
I'm back. I'm working on it. Those Kia designers are stupid as hell, is almost impossible to put my hand inside there. They put all the hoses they could imaging in the middle. I just replace the compressor, did Vacuum and leave it hold it until tomorrow. It holds vacuum really well, so I will let it there until tomorrow and see to add the freon. Tomorrow I will see how good the vacuum is. -- I didn't replace O-rings, they were good, just add oil and put it back. I had to remove the transmission hoses from the back of the Fan, so I could have a little tiny more space. -- I removed everything in front, move the car back, vacuum inside, clean under hood and the Condenser with a spray I bought on E-bay. --- The old compressor looks Ugly.
They do pack in a lot of stuff in cramped areas, the engineers don’t think about who has to work on these eventually. I’m glad your vacuum is holding, and I’m excited to hear when you put the Freon in how the cold blows out the vents. Congrats in advance
@@docsprojects9427 ok. I'm back again. Did everything, but Everything is so different than everything I saw here on RU-vid. -- I Connect the yellow hose to the Can Tap Valve, so when I closed came a little gas, then open I heard the same, so I assume was ready, then purge the hose and fill like air, but it was air, I didn't see any gas, or liquid, or something you know? I hope I didn't put air inside. -- Now it came this: Open low side on the gage and it was too slow, like nothing so I turn the can upside down and it was the only way I could see something happening, Liquid. So, the needle on low side when a little up. I gave it a little time, then start the car, A/C on. I keep doing the same thing Up and down: 12 o'clock and 3 o'clock and sometime upside down. -- The first can feel like never get cold, too slow, and at the end feel like still has more. I close and open several times the can tap valve but I when to inside the car and was cooling, not so much. Then I disconnected the first can and it blows gas and never stop until get empty. Once you open that can will not close, anyway. Connected the second one and purged, the needle on low side stays almost in the same place, it moves very slow, and high side almost 200. Today was 90-degree Fahrenheit. -- So, the second can almost stay full after moving it open closed, etc. I close the valve and when to inside the car and Walla: like 42 degrees. I starter with 84 degrees. -- Well, I hope I didn't push air inside the system. Everything so far is working fine. I will test it at night and check again with my other gage.
Hello dear. me again with another question: Do you know why a good compressor could start leaking oil? like I told you before, the A/C was working fine and then started leaking oil.
There are two places where a compressor would leak oil. The front shaft seal which would need to have compressor replaced, or one of the o-ring seals at the back where the hoses connect, which would just need the o-rings replaced. Either way would require an evacuation and recharge of Freon. Does it appear to be leaking from the front or rear? If it is leaking oil then it is also leaking Freon, which means it will lose cooling ability.
@@docsprojects9427 I think is from the rear valve, not front hoses connection. yes, is losing the cooling ability and is making a water noise inside the cabin.
Thank you for asking, but likely no. I’m leaning more towards woodworking and sign making these days, and my wife insists on keeping her car in the garage, lol. I appreciate the interest
12:14 How did you get that bottom right bolt off the thermostat housing? I can get a boxed end wrench on it from below but there's no room to turn it. From above I can't get a socket on extension to it because of a bracket on the AC compressor.
@@docsprojects9427 Thanks that works. Tough but possible. I could reach around it with my left hand and feel the bolt, and guide the socket on that I was holding in my right hand.
I found the order, I got it from Amazon. Here is the link for it ECCPP A/C Compressor with Clutch... www.amazon.com/dp/B0CKX9X8HG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I bought it from the internet site “Rockauto”, there were several choices and the one I bought did come filled with the correct amount of pag oil. Thanks for asking
Honestly I don’t recall, I normally put new o-rings on the the fittings if they are available, but if I didn’t get them with the replacement kit I will inspect them and decide. This Kia is still chilling the customer. Thanks for asking
I don't know why always those Charts are always weird. My kia soul 2012 was 37 low side and 210 or 220 F high side with 91 degrees in the garage with less than 20% humidity. Is cooling really good, even with the compressor leaking oil. --- How much oil goes inside the compressor? -- Did you add any oil peg 46 to the drier filter? -- Did you replace the O-rings? -- Did you check if the compressor brought the right amount of Oil? -- I saw another video where he removes the drier filter from the bottom. -- How many can of freon do you added? -- People recommend replacing condenser together with what you did, if you disconnected anyway. -- My compressor is leaking. Do you think I could pass the summer with it and change it in October or next year? Thank you.
The compressor came with the right amount of oil, I used almost two cans of Freon. With the compressor leaking it will eventually run low on Freon and not cool well. You may need to add some Freon to keep it working through the summer. At 91 degrees I would recommend getting your high side up to about 250
If the dryer filter has evidence of debris, the condenser should be back flushed. Some makes and models can’t be flushed so would need replacement. Most shops will over recommend what needs to be replaced, partly because of liability, and also to maximize their profit
@@docsprojects9427 Thank you for your reply. how to put high side up to 250? -- My car has only 75 K miles. 2012 automatic 2.0L. Do you think I need to replace that drier filter when I need just the compressor? If the A/C system is cooling good that mean the expansion valve is working good right? so I don't need to change it.
@@irisbaez1972 you mentioned it was cooling good, so don’t worry about the expansion valve. To get the high side to 250, get the idle to about 1000 to 1200 rpm, and add Freon until it gets to about 250. Be sure to keep can upright so it goes in as vapor instead of liquid form. If the compressor is getting worn it may not get there. If you don’t see a slow climb in the pressure then stop adding. I’m hoping it will keep you cool til you can afford to replace the compressor in the fall. Thanks for viewing
@@docsprojects9427 Thank you. You are very nice to reply to me. Yes, it's cooling to 41 degrees inside. I already bought a new compressor: HANON GENUINE OEM✅ A/C Compressor for 11-13 Elantra 12-13 Soul 2.0L 977013X10. They say is coming with oil already, but I heard a lot about check the oil no matter what. Any Idea how to check how much oil is inside? -- Is better left the drier filter along or replace it?
Hi! I have a 2013 Ford Fusion SE and both my AC and heat aren’t working. It’s blowing air, but the temperature doesn’t change. I’ve researched motor actuator and ambient air temperature. Do you think it could be thermostat?
@@chloegibson4642 it may be low on Freon, there is a low pressure safety switch that won’t allow the compressor to engage when low, so it won’t burn itself up. You can get a recharge kit at an auto parts store if you want to try to add some Freon. The sales person at auto parts store can instruct you. If adding Freon makes the compressor engage, then that was the answer. Your car should take 2 cans to fill it up. You may or may not have a leak, after 11 years it is normal for the factory charge of Freon to dissipate. I’m putting another video regarding replacement of an air conditioning compressor together that should be uploaded within a couple of days, you may get some help from that video. Thanks for watching, let me know how it goes
It was mentioned, the timing belt was pinned in place and I used a zip tie to keep the tension. As long as it doesn’t jump any teeth you don’t have to reset the timing
It took me about 4 or 5 hours in my garage with no lift, having to jack up each side and use jack stands. I would guess a shop with all the tools would charge about 3 to 3.5 hours for labor
A couple places said they couldn’t do the job because it requires “special tools” they didn’t have. They didn’t elaborate. Any idea which tools they were talking about?
Yes, the crankshaft locator plug and the cam holding tool. When I get home I’ll try to send pictures of the tools. I borrowed them from a local O’reilys parts store
@@jeffh.2588 if you check my video at 13.46, you will see the cam holding tool sitting between the cam gears, it holds the cams from moving. The positioning bolt goes below into the side of the engine block to position the crankshaft at TDC "top dead center" of cylinder #1.
Hello I have a 2013 ford fusion Se eco boost I am having some overheating problems I changed out the Engine water outlet and the thermostat housing assembly and still overheating do you know what could be causing the issue
Thanks Kimberly, did you replace the thermostat as well inside the housing? Your engine has a history of head gasket trouble. Are you having to add coolant at times?
Several things to check. Make sure you have nothing obstructing the airflow to radiator such as excess bugs or debris or plastic bag etc. look for any leaks getting to the ground, also I recommend calling a Ford dealer and give them your vin number, ask if there are any recalls on it. It may be leaking head gasket
Does it buck while driving a steady speed? Motor mounts will act up when starting movement, or when switching from drive to reverse and then accelerating. If bucking and surging while driving it could several things. Does the yellow check engine light come on?
A miss and white smoke from tailpipe could be a coolant leak thru head gasket, causing the misfire and coolant burning will be white smoke out the tailpipe. (So will trans fluid). I would recommend to check the coolant level for a loss. Don’t open the tank when hot though. I haven’t seen it on the Edge. Thanks for question
Nice attempt at making a cutting board. There are so many people that need to see this video to LEARN that you don't have to be perfect, just enjoy the process and have fun learning.. After 30 years of teaching high school wood shop I have learned that most mistakes can be rectified. Nice recovery on your cutting board, Doc!
