Your first tip indicates 2 to 3 stops of exposure compensation but if you're rating the film at ISO 25 that's actually 4 stops. I typically use 4 to 5 stops but there's no definitive answer because we cannot see the IR part of the spectrum directly. The amount of IR light emitted by various sources vaiescand is hard to predict. As you noted, foliage is a strong emitter of IR. This is especially true for deciduous trees.
great video ! I have the same camera but it has recently started acting up but it only happens when I have film in it. any idea what it might be ? it does not happen always but sometimes it gets jammed when I shoot and the film does not advance for a couple seconds or when I set the camera down. but I can spam the shutter button when no film is inside and it does not jam once and advances fine with no issues . Only when film is loaded is when it sometimes has trouble any thoughts?
Great video and fantastic tips, I use my Fujica Fuji GW690 65mm, it works great since no need to take the filter to compose the photo. Only one tip using a range finder, Don't forget to take the lens cap. Thank you for the video, sample photos and tips...
My 303b is in for repair, I borrowed a friend's 101 in the meantime and it's a great solid camera. Even though I'm using a 1.5V battery as opposed to the 1.35V original, the light meter concurs pretty much with my external light meter, so I'm happy enough.
If I remember correctly the film leader needs to slide under the first stainless steel roller then up onto the next roller. Rolleiflex film take up is a bit diffrent issuring ecwryuing lay flat plus the film pressure plate supporting all the other mechanisms
It's common with this camera as it ages unfortunately. The mechanism gets harder to move correctly over time. Out of my 6-7 Autoboy I have. it's something that happens quite often. Sometimes fresh batteries and tipping the battery cover against the batteries a couple of times can get the mechanism in place. Also try pushing in the metal pin at the bottom of the camera while doing this, can help.
Yes lovely presentation Gavin. Nice relaxed presentation -and of course that nice Irish 'brogue' can't be beat! I also have a Contaflex, and I also have that 38mm wide angle lens. But I haven't run any film though it yet. looking forward to using it, (along with my M645 PRO). Need to buy the film. Thanks again Gavin, nice work. I sold my darkroom stuff years ago, but I'm thinking of doing my own B&W neg developing now... All I'll need is developing tank and chemicals. Idea then is to photo-scan them to digitise. I've set up a copy stand I can mount my D90 on, which works well digitising 645 trannies.
There's such a gap between photographers and photo historians on the term "alternative photography.". I've never once heard it used by a historian - for obvious reasons. It's a really ahistorical term. The vast majority are historical processes of photography. So they weren't the alternative to anything. They were the first range of choices photographers had as "alternatives" were being invented. And it's even stranger now to use this term. Film is increasingly an "alternative" to digital. I encourage photographers to ditch this awkward term.
Be careful with just changing CMOS without actually knowing what you do. I came about several instances that a CMOS of a certain manufacturer didn’t work while the same IC from another did. Most of the time you should be good but it can make things very confusing real fast.
Hi, I had the same camera. However, the viewer window was all dark. The whole camera looks functioning properly. Is there any idea which button or combination of dials will release the shade? BTW I had been seeing the screen working before, allowing me to do the split image focusing. Thanks
Hey Gavin, any specific reason why this camera doesn't, or shouldn't use rechargeable batteries? I've used 2AA Ni-MH on mine and it seems to work fine... 🤔Thanks for the help!
If it works that's good. Remember this camera was designed in 1979 for Alkaline batteries as NiMH and Nickel- Cadmium weren't too common back then. Also they have a lower voltage of 1.25V instead of 1.5V per cell. NiMH is much better now in terms of electrical current. Current is important on this old machine as over time the mechanism tends to be harder to drive due to wear over the year and grease drying up etc... Just a lot of the issues I've had with the 5-6 Autoboys where they'd getting out of sync and stopping half through the film were issues with weak batteries.
@@InstantNoddlesthanks for the clarification! Now that i think about it, the shutter button tends to get stuck every now and then, i wonder if its related withthe batteries, or dry lubrication 🤔... I shall try some alkaline batteries on, to test if theres any change... Doesn't seem to impact the picture taking at all, just the film advance...
Getting a lovely Tony Hart vibe off the video. I loved it, thank you. The cyanotype on the random packaging worked so well. The transient, somewhat fragile presentation of the art appeals to me.
Interesting that you are printing the negatives in colour ! Will try that with a local printing shop- will use the Affinity settings (don't want to pay photoshop every month lol). Thanks !
I have old eos 650 and as you said ease of use, fairly modern controls, but you shoot film and can focus on process. It also works with all lenses for my dslr so it's win win.
I use sheet film 4x5" from Ilford (FP+ 125) in a tin, sprayed black in the inside - you can see the camera and etc in this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-vAHIbF0goG4.html Thanks for asking btw. Hope that helps!
@@GavinLyonsCreates I still print with an "analyser" from RH designs built in the 90's. a great yoke as far as I can tell, still working away, his newer ones are somewhat more sophisticated I understand. I do like a good solid switch.
I just picked one of these up & everything was working properly for the first few test shots but now the shutter is stuck. I’ve tried taking apart the camera but am having trouble removing the front panel to get a better look at what the issue may be. Any advice on how to remove the front panel without damaging the plastic? Cheers, thanks!
That doesn't sound good. Probably the batteries have corroded inside the camera. Quite difficult to repair that. You could try some WD40 spray to loosen it up
According to my blog post, it was a while ago - "I used Rodinal 1:50 dilute and developed for 15 minutes with my Spinmatic device." gavinlyons.photography/svema-film-and-foto-65-shooting-expired-film-from-1989/ Hope that helps :-)
Seems like a good place to ask: When i put battieries in i get what sounds like a rewind noise instantly and otherwise nothing. Any tips or encounters with this issue?
one other benefit of the lomograflok is that it fits all graflok style backs, so if you get a camera, then you can test the bellows, lens shutter, etc. before going to the more expensive sheet film, so you don't get those errors in the big film.
just got a lomograflok for myself, and yes, love instant, but the peel apart has rubbish and the goo when peeling, yuck, esp. from an environmental perspective, just the packs' darkslide and cartridge to recycle.
hi! i noticed my canon af35 started heating up at the shutter button side after 1 day of new batteries and usage. noticed the battery compartment was heatinf up too, and ofcourse the batteries itself. what does this mean and what do i do bec the shutter won't click as well :(
Esp boards are not present by default, so for anyone that wouldn't know how to instal, here is a link to video explaining it ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_iX67plFeLs.html
Just bought this cam again after my first was broken in 1991. Back then i made some of my best photos with it. Fun fact in 2024 this little gem goes viral on insta 😍
This is what we did : Place 600-700ml of water into a clean glass or plastic pitcher. Use a clean plastic stir stick or the TCS-1000 to circulate the liquid. While circulating, add the contents of the powder packet. Top-off solution with water to make 1000ml. Mix well. Store mixed solution in a tightly capped, completely filled storage container for up to 2-6 weeks. Yellows with age and turns amber when perished. Oxygen and contaminants cause developing agents to perish. Warm-Tone Development: 1+1 Dilution ~ 9 min. 15 sec. at 104°f (40°C) Hope that helps!
@@GavinLyonsCreates thank you very much for the feedback. Then it’s clear: 50% stock solution and 50% water all at 40 Celsius, right at the moment for development. Keep it up 👍
Hi I just found this camera amongst my grandpa’s belongings and am eager to take it out! Do you have any suggestions on the settings for a similar film? I.e. shutter speed, aperture, best film. Any suggestions would be much appreciated :)
Hi there, To start out I'd use a 100 ISO or 400 ISO film. If you haven't developed film before, then stick with a color film from Kodak or Fujifilm. This way you can find a place easier to develop the film and make print for you. Most countries in the world still develop color film while B&W film is always a bit more challenging to find a lab that will do it for you. Then load up and keep an eye on the light meter in the camera to see if your exposure is correct. Aperture wise 5.6 or 8 is a good place to start. Ensure to set the film DIN (ISO) up on the camera so that the light meter works correctly. The manual for the camera can still be downloaded from www.cameramanuals.org/zeiss_ikon/zeiss_ikon_contaflex_super-02.pdf Hope that helps, have fun shooting Gavin
so from what you’ve said power isn’t getting to my camera, the flash doesn’t always charge. i have foil inside nd it seems to work 10-20% of the time. other than that i click away at the button nd the shutter stays open while i take batteries in nd out nd go mad trying to get power to the device. what tips do you have ?
