Честно говоря не знаю. Но мне попадалась похожая конструкция и у других выключателей, не только у LK

Я подозреваю, что она не герметичная. Поэтому советовал бы прежде всего не включать в розетку, просушить (можно феном) и, может быть, даже подержать пару дней в банке с рисом, чтобы высушить влагу, которая могла потенциально попасть внутрь.

It's in Russian. Sorry, I don't speak Italian. Non parlo italiano.

Вы вольны ломать свой блендер так, как вам угодно. Ломать свой у меня желания не было.

@@AlexAmelkin Тупорылый ответ ТУПОРЫЛОГО мастера. Тиктокер хренов, а не мастер...

It isn't glued normally. It's just sitting there very tightly. Heating is needed to slightly soften the plastic, but you can just pull as well. You'll just need more pulling power applied if you dont heat. Also, if you don't have a heating gun / soldering heater, you may use a hairdryer.

@@AlexAmelkin😢I cut off (melted off) part of the plastic around the clutch, it is installed there without the possibility of removal. 😢 It is possible that if you heat the plastic it will go better, but I don't really believe it. It's just designed for one click and that's it.

@@dejv1111 , sorry I don't understand your language, please speak English or Russian. Прошу прощения, я не понимаю ваш язык. Пожалуйста, пишите по-русски или по-английски.

Sorry, can't tell about Italy (which I guessed by your nickname). Try searching e-bay or just googling. In Russia I found the spare parts online using the latter way.

@@AlexAmelkin Thanks

Смазка там была, я просто добавил. Думаю, что она предотвращает трение, нагрев и расплавление муфты и окружающих её пластиковых стенок при вибрации.

Пожалуйста, можете делать так. Мне было жалко блендер.

​@@AlexAmelkinNení třeba lítosti, já to udělal také tak a vše se obešlo bez poškození.😊

в любом интернет-магазине, торгующем запчастями к блендерам. ищите по словам "муфта к блендеру braun"

Увы, уже теперь не помню, чем вылечилось. В какой-то момент на этой машине менялись наконечники рулевых тяг. Возможно, после этого и починилось. Но, честное слово, не запомнил.

Так скрипят шаровые

ну, мне совершенно не нужно было мудрить. первый попавшийся в поиске сайт и пара дней на доставку. ваш вариант тоже вполне хорош, но скорее для случая редкой муфты, котоую нельзя найти

Muy buena idea es reparar con resinas epoxi. Lo leo desde Argentina y me dió una excelente idea. Gracias.

Уважаемая Валентина, если вы почитаете другие комментарии, то сможете увидеть мой ответ, где я пишу, что купил муфту в первом попавшемся интернет-магазине при поиске по ключевым словам "муфта блендера braun купить".

@@AlexAmelkin Спасибо

Знаю. И глаза скосил в конце. Но я не настоящий актёр, ты же знаешь! ;)

Можете подсказать как именно это будет работать? Планирую в подрозетник поместить умное реле и к нему подключить такой выключатель. Но если я правильно понимаю то при нажатии свет будет включаться и сразу выключаться. Или нужно дополнительно настроить само реле для правильной работы?

@@alexunder43 умные реле (например shelly) имеют настройку под импульсные выключатели

You're most welcome!

Можно, если вам не надо менять насадки. :)

теоретически можно прогреть просто феном для волос. только слишком близко его не подносите.

а так-то многие просто силой снимают. но мне такой жёсткий вариант не по душе.

Moje zkušenost je taková, že opřu proti sobě dva šroubováky o spojku a tu rovnoměrně vypáčím směrem nahoru. Není nutné nic nahřívat.

Где он у меня сделан я не смотрел. Муфту брал на первом попавшемся сайте из выборки в яндексе по словам "запчасти муфта блендера braun". Кажется, это был ziperone, но я не помню уже.

Which temperature did you use?

@@effendi88 as you can see at 0:57 the temperature is 130 degrees. Celsius, of course.

А чёрт его уже теперь помнит.

I'm very sorry to hear that you've made this mistake. There is no chance to make this piece of crap work. The best you can do is sell it and buy some decently made one. If you want to keep it, please check the Rostock 301 discussion thread on Thingiverse, there are some hints to make it at least print anything.

@@AlexAmelkin thank you.

Niels Johnson-Laird, I have successfully reversed the board, but I haven't yet had time to spend on porting any decent firmware to this beast.

I am fascinated to know what you discovered, please let me know if you are comfortable sharing your reverse engineering work? Based on my research around the Internet it is believed that Geeetech based their firmware on the Marlin firmware which is open-source and covered by GPL. I had been thinking of replacing the GTM32 Pro board and modding the 301 to use a Reprap RUMBA board as it supports 3 extruders and uses open-source code on an Arduino Mega 2560--I have a lot of experience with Arduinos. During my fourth attempt to print with ABS yesterday I discovered my 301's heater element has a fault (I haven't figured out if it is a fuse on the PCB or the heater element itself that is the problem). This is not too much of a surprise to me and I have accepted that the 301 is now an experimental toy--I've been using an UP! Plus 2 since December 2013 which I have printed exclusively with ABS so I can still do 3D printing.

Niels Johnson-Laird, printing with ABS on 301 requires modding the heater plate. Specifically, you need to move the sensor about 1cm away from the heater downwards (use some insulator like cork). Then it will measure the temperature close to that of the surface. Otherwise when you set it to 110 degrees C, you only get about 65 C on the surface, which is not enough for ABS to stick to it.

Thanks for sharing the tip for printing with ABS, I have seen it mentioned online. Because of this I did some initial testing with the hot-bed plate (I use a 3mm thick borosilicate glass disc on my hot-bed and add a layer of Elmer's Disappearing Purple Office Glue Stick [it is water soluble so it is easy to wash off]). When I set the hot-bed to 100 C, I recorded the surface temperature using an IR thermometer, it took 15 mins for it to reach 83 C. After this I set the hot-bed to 110C, and let it preheat. ABS adhesion has not been my problem, getting even extrusion from the nozzle over the three test prints has been the biggest problem. Partly, this has been due to the brand of ABS filament, the White ABS which came from Inventables.com (for the UP! Plus 2) will not extrude and jammed--I have since disassembled the hot-end nozzle so I can soak the metal parts in acetone (this is why I stick with ABS ;-) ). The Purple and Blue ABS (no, I wasn't planning on color mixing LOL) are both Octave brand from Amazon.com, and they would extrude, initially. The general consensus is that extrusion problems can be resolved by replacing the extruder assemblies that are attached to the extruder stepper motors at the top of the 301. I have these on order, they should be arriving in the next few days. My first print was a small test piece (~6 mins ETE) and printed OK (despite me not realizing that I had to turn on 'support' printing in Slic3r). After this I was concerned that the hot-end temperature was too low and changed it 260 C (the UP! Plus 2 won't even start moving until its hot-end nozzle hits 260 C). At this point weirdness began, with "stringing", poor extrusion and finally no extrusion--the 301 was air-printing (moving, but no filament coming out). I suspect that a setting of 260 C was the wrong choice for the 301 and for the heater element. Fortunately, I had ordered a replacement 3-in-1 nozzle set earlier this week after the white ABS jammed. Now, I am considering my options: a) replace parts with parts which are hopefully going to be better quality; or, b) dive into replacing the controller board with the Reprap RUMBA board which will involve replacing cables (that will be compatible with the connectors on the RUMBA), new firmware, and a lot more hands-on work.

Niels Johnson-Laird, it's not just replacing extruder that helps. You will also need to add some heat-resistant lubricant into bowdens for the device to start printing. There is a topic on Thingiverse that is very helpful.

Я только что добавил его на свой канал, и ссылка находится в конце этого видео.

Exactly! Regarding the hotend hitting the table in the center, that is because of wrong default settings (don't they know the geometry of their device?). Without you specifically asking, they don't provide the information on how to calibrate that. However they have a special separate calibration manual (aside from the main assembly manual), and it says that you need to adjust the "Delta radius" setting. You can google for it. It's a common issue for all delta printers. Some sites even have howtos with pictures on Kossel calibration. You will also need to replace the extruders. Those plastic pieces of crap are by design unable to push the filament. Replace them with metal MK8 extruders (you can find them on aliexpress or ebay), or even better with some geared extruders like Greg's/Wade's or maybe Titan or Drakon or something else. You should also add lubricating filters where filament enters the extruder. And cut the bowden tubes as short as possible. These steps will greatly improve the ability to print and the print quality. Another thing to do is move the hotbed sensor away from the heating wire. I use a 5mm cork insulator between the sensor and the heater to make the sensor report the temperature more resembling that of the hotbed surface. This allowed for finally be able to print with ABS so that it adheres to the table. Without that the hotbed surface never gets heated above 65 degrees, even if you set it to 120. Note though that you will need to adjust the PID regulator settings after you move the sensor. Otherwise the temperature will be oscillating or/and not reaching or overshooting the set value. All in all, this printer is an out-of-the-box piece of crap. It requires substantial engineering efforts to make it print.

By the way, I made the seller replace the wobbling rods for me (I actually only had one). And you can add washers made of thin copper wire to remedy wobbling along the rotating axis (I did that before I got the replacement). However even when the rods are fine, they still have too much of a play in the joints. I'm planning to replace the effector and the rods with a magnetic system. As for the broken fan on the extruder, you don't actually need it as the extruder don't get hot even after you pump up the voltage (I hope you did it? It won't work at all without that). So you can use those fans as spares for the hotend or use one of them for cooling. You can, by the way, control the speed of a cooling fan if you connect it to extruder 2 or 3. Can't recall the exact G-code for that, but it can be found somewhere on Geeetech forum. I don't use it yet, but I tried some time ago and it really worked. My firmware is also version 2 and there is version 3, which is even more buggy, so don't even try to use it.