Please do not use my email for help questions. I will delete them. My email is only for serious business inquires. If you need help go to Facebook or youtube comment system.
Tdc (top dead center) is a term used when timing engines. Normally this means number one cylinder is at the start of its cycle. It can also be used when referencing a position/orientation ;)
Thanks Knuckles this carbine kit is looking crazier every video, so futuristic. You did the right thing doing a 1:1 comparison between the two barrels keeping everything else the same. Cant wait to see what it looks like with a skeletonised foldable picatinny stock too :) still so excited your back!
I also have an issue where the beaver tail safety (grip safety) is always fully engaged when the hammer is back. The hammer can’t lock back unless the grip safety is also fully engaged. So it doesn’t actually work as a safety… and again, the hammer won’t stay locked back unless it is touching the beaver tail safety fully engaged. I think for some reason my hammer comes back too far?
glad i went with the tti set. polished up my set, works perfect. unfortunately my 2 year old hammer housing cracked around the auto sear pin, hopefully the tti set fits in a cowcow steel housing
My new edge frame seems to have looser and/or bad tolerances which caused a lot of voodoo with proper hammer function and weak blowback impulse, while also needing an above average amount of hammer spring strength to overcome the valve knocker. I have a feeling it has to do with how loose the chassis is floating in the frame in addition to the gapping from the grip to the frame.
Very nice build! Didn't realize it was airsoft at first lol I agree the silver parts would probably look better gold as well, but looks great either way 👍
my pdi barrels do all have this narrow cutout no maple leaf bucking fits through...i'd love to get that fixed. rn i only use TM stock buckings or similar design for my AIPSC raceguns...but i'd love to be able using maple leaf
From my knowledge the order of best barrels goes like this. 1. Steel EDGI, these are to my knowledge the best lapped barrels you can buy from a barrel manufacture and not either lap yourself or buy a lapping service from a reputable technician. Very good crowns on them 2. The normal high end PDI steel (not the raven line), still lapped to some degree though not as much as EDGI. Similar to EDGI, the crowns on them are very good. 3. (Equal to 2 from the rumor mill). These Da Vinci, good crowns and potentially lapped a little better then PDI though that could be incorrect information. At the very least these are apparently somewhere at a minimum of PDI levels and at the maximum they are approaching EDGI. Some type of past relationship with PDI. 4. (Not necessarily directly after 3, just listing it as 4) Lambda, these seem decent and apparently either has or had a connection to PDI but as said/what I have heard is some of those PDI connections moved on (most likely to Da Vinci?) and quality went down a little. These seem decent but the crowns on them are pretty dang short….the two I have seem to have crowns just as short as a stock TM if not a slightly smaller. Other lower end barrels I would heavily argue are generally a waste of money compared to the stock tm brass 6.08. Barrels such as “maple leaf” are iffy at best if you are actually wanting a upgrade, especially if you are going with a longer barrel. Being extruded brass is inherently not going to be as straight as a forged steel barrel especially as the length increases. Unicorn barrels have been getting a lot of praise but I would still say they are only good due to being cheap and coming with a bucking, they are still coated extruded brass and there has been a minority of MWS users who have had worse results with them then the stock tm brass barrel/bucking. I personally can’t see the difference between my mws which has a unicorn bucking/barrel in it vs my friends stock mws. If there is a difference, it is incredibly small to the point it’s probably not worth the money and more worth it to just walk the extra 5 feet to gain that improved range/accuracy. Also side note of Maple leaf/potentially other extruded brass barrels, the qc for checking if the brass tubing bar stock is straight is done via a “completely scientific” method of setting up the 15-20 foot long brass tubing on sawhorses in a wear house while dudes look through them…eyeballing if the tubing that will be cut for inner barrels is straight…..(I have photos of this btw, so no, I’m not making it up) Laylax/Prommy/9ball I would generally just avoid unless you absolutely love them. They are okay, but they are heavily overpriced just like 95% of Laylax/Prommy/9balls other parts. Any aluminum barrel, while aluminum wouldn’t necessarily be bad, all the ones on the market are still extruded and thus can vary like extruded brass. Unfortunately for gbbr users, vfc went away from their great stock brass barrel and now are using black coated aluminum ones in 98% of their gbbr/gbbp with varying results from users with some having horrible experiences and others having acceptable stock barrel experiences (I have had both experiences). Brass EDGI I personally wouldn’t consider just due to how expensive it is for a brass barrel and how brass can much more easily corrode at least on a surface level. They might be good, but I could not justify buying one when it is brass. I am also unsure if they are extruded or not. *Edit:* Forgot to mention “air cushioned” barrels. Theses are a absolute gimmick, the idea of having a pocket of air surround the bb as it travels down the barrel is literally a myth and has been proven by HS5 along with others using multiple barrels that are dyed and then shot through thousands of times and then milled opened, revealing that the dye has worn away on the top of the inner surface of the barrel and if I remember right, generally shows increased wear towards the end of a barrel. I have also seen this with one of my own barrels where extremely small amounts of bb residue was generally on the topside of the inner surface when viewed looking into the exist end of a barrel. TLDR bbs ride the top wall of a inner barrel and thus you should not fall for the “air cushion” snake oil barrels that some companies make.
omg, da vinci is from those PDI guys. Most of my frds still stick to pdi, I am using lambda. I will go for da vinci now. For the bucking, do you know about that 4uad bucking? Looks quite interesting from thier research video and information, would like to see if someone test it and compare to the maple leaf.
Hey man can you make a video about fitting rear sights? I always get trouble with 5.1 rear sights. Or bbu will drop or sights cause nozzlespring to get stuck. For me its never a drop in and I wonder what your thoughts are about this.
Big shout out to you bro. Im into building airsoft, i have two builds. Check my short video bro. I have 5ku build black and red colour. And i love my build. 5ku is getting on the top ithink i love it for the budget build
I laughed when you brought it up because I've also been trying so hard not to buy the new Gunsmith Bros LimCat Concealed Comp Kit it just looks so cool
Big $$$, but great looking build 👍 Way outta my league... I'll be sticking to my SSP5 4.3 for now. Thanks for doing these builds tho, love watching them, great insight into some high end Hi-Capa's ❤️ Big respect to you 🤘
had the exact same issue with the grip to frame fitment ended up lightly filing the front of the trigger guard that sits in the recess on the frame and recontouring the corners then fits fine pretty sure this is a fitment issue with am/gsb grips fitting to the edge frames. nice to see someone having the same issue
I also had the exact same issue. But it was not with the edge frame. But an old school hero kit. I thought it maybe was the frame itself. But further inspecties noticed it was the grip\trigger guard. Glad the problem is on a spot that is easily covered😅
I couldn't really tell in the vid while I was watching. But the valve in the nozzle, that gap needs to be upwards. It think its there so it doesnt hit the top screw
Yup! That is best. They probably didnt clean it well enough. Anodizing coloring process usually doesnt have any other cemichal than of the dye. The sealing is done with the boiling water. You could also try boiling it in water. Never use any degreasing agent that may contain caustic soda or NaOH (Sodium Hydroxide) usually contained in drain cleaners. You can fully strip anodic coating with that. You can also use it to remove coloring when used in low consentration.
I love the color scheme already! I couldn't see if you said it in the video, but is there any functional issues with having a slight gap , or is it mostly a aesthetic issue? (Unless it just doesn't screw it altogether lol)
I think it turned out to be a good looking build. Personally I'd just change the grip screws, mag catch, magwell and possibly the hammer and guide plug to gold and call it done enough to move on to fine tuning. Thank you for the videos Knuckles 🙂👍
