Ive bought a handfull of Speedmaster items. I had a small issue, I called and I emailed and I got bounced around to many different people in the company and never got my issue resolved. So I after that, I WILL NEVER buy from them again. Speedmaster has HORRIBLE customer service, just HORRIBLE. Ive heard that many people have issues and they get no resolution of therir problems. Its like a big f*ck you to their customers who have problems.
So you can drop the tank without removing the fuel feed nice I’m not looking forward to to buying the tool I’m cheap and my customer needs me early in the morning for a fuel pump
What a ridiculous experience. I wonder how many of their customers just bite the bullet and spend to make them work or lose out silently ... I totally agree with you that if it is sold as a set, it should work together. That's the reason to buy a set, eh? They probably sell a ton more Chevy and Ford heads and some service person was not aware of the issue if these don't happen a lot, but it's so obvious that it was screwed up from the start. Either way, machined wrong or wrong hardware or whatever, Speedmaster would have done better if they just investigated what went wrong and corrected it instead of leaving it to you. Thanks a lot for bringing this up to us, it will save one or another from this frustration 🤦♂️
I know this was 10 months ago, but I had the same issue with my D 100 pick up took the Holly off and put an Edelbrock AVS two now it runs like a sewing machine no issues at all just a heads up
I did switch to an avs2 for a bit. It worked good. I ended up putting the Holley back on and tuned it. Still wasn’t super happy with it. This week it’s getting the full Sniper 2 setup w/hyperspark dist and ignition
It should be reasonable. It should turn over will a little bit of effort. Generally after installing each piston, I’ll turn it over to make sure there is no binding, and if there is, I know which one caused the problem.
Probably was cracked or warped which is why it was left for scrap in the first place. I wouldn’t spend any more time without making sure there are no cracks.
It wasn’t left for scrap. I bought a bunch of stuff from a widow. It was under a shelf for years waiting to be built, but her husband had health issues. There it sat for the next 10 years.
Way to flatten a cam… Jesus….. prime the carb You can fill the float bowl through the vent tubes. OR Delete the mechanic fuel pump for an electric one. Holy cow
Sure! We can also raise the bits of the Titanic with enough money and work!!! You can buy a NEW Magnum small block (better, stronger and lighter than any "A" engine ever sold) and spend the machine-shop money on IT and top 375 HP @4400 RPM with a carb or 425 HP @5000 RPM with fuel injection. Buy a NEW FORGED billet crank and Hughes Engines rods/pistons and a REAL 600HP @ 7000 RPM is doable with 100% gasoline premium (98 Octane) pump gas. Sunoco 101 unleaded "race fuel", you can up the compression ratio to make 750 HP @7000 RPM. I've seen one on a Prony dyno (water) pull that for 32 minutes. Lots of power and torque from a 361 CID! BTW, an "old" "A" engine WILL NOT go that BIG-you'll hit water!
Yep, and the new trick flow heads work on LA and magnum engines, and you can stroke either. You can make over 400 CI with the 340 block and make plenty of power. Been running my 73 340 for 34 years, been in two ram chargers and two pickups and now in my CJ5, I think it has proven its reliability and I have turned it 8200 rpms with the stock valve springs on the 71 heads. Thankfully I have two spare 340's just in case.
Hello, is this the local machine shop to which I'm calling? Great, I have a 1968 340 block that needs an inspection decking, aligne honing and boring. I want it done properly the first time so it will last a long time. No just a stock build, yes new pistons and cam. I'll bring the engine in tomorrow morning
Years ago i bought a set of their Victor BBM heads. I bought them bare, i also bought their offset rocker system that those heads used. The heads was nice, very nice, but the rocker set up was complete junk. This is procomp with a different name. They sell 98% junk. I really wish people would quit buying this junk. People by this shit because its cheap, not good. Nobody does any kind of product reviews or company reviews. They see cheap prices and jump on it. Be greatfull they didn't work. Their valve train is complete junk. Stop buying this shit. They can't make a set of valve covers without screwing them up.
I completely agree with you. We got sucked in by the Black Friday deals. Biggest lesson learned, by the best quality parts you can afford for your build or like buying crap from Harbor Freight, you will be buying things twice and might as well spent the money on good stuff. Let alone the fact earlier this year Speedmaster was caught flat out stealing people’s products and copying them.
I bought a set of the Eddy victor BBM heads. I told procomp straight up that I wanted to see what kind of quality they sold and I told them I would either praise them online or tell people how bad their shit really is. The bare castings was pretty nice, of course they should have been, they was a copy of the Edelbrock Mopar heads. The adjustable ockers was absolute garbage. I sent them back and kept the heads. I've seen procomp/speedmaster heads taken apart. No spring seats for the springs on aluminum heads, installed heights was all over the place, valves that just looked rough, springs that looked like cheap junk, retainers and keepers that just looked like trash. Their intakes always have core shift, I've seen their rods that had the cap screw hole threads stripped out straight out of the box. I have bought two sets of valve covers from them and both sets had to have at least two holes enlarged to fire the heads. I didn't know I was getting procomp/speedmaster valve covers from eBay or I wouldn't have bought them. People buy this stuff and brag about it. They are ticking time bombs.
First engine build ? Ten minutes to get it started, leaks all over, surprised it gets hot sitting there at 2,000 plus rpm? Definitely your first build, keep at it, you'll get it eventually. 🤣
nice video - just rebuilding my 360 - heads got 2.02 inlets n mopar roller rockers but not sure what else as springs too strong for my old valve spring compressor so they now at machine shop to get out! will be giving it a light porting similar to yours if not done already. I got the old dished pistons :( - trying to keep it cheap - wot blue did you use as want to get similar although am uk based!
Yeah i used a set of these once i bought bare heads i used conical springs and small diameter retainers with a custom length valve. this was the fix in my case . Was it worth the grief hassles and expense No. The Heads themselves are just poorly manufactured in so many aspects If you need a high port head buy Eds from Hughes and use their rockers
NEEDTO CC EVERY COMBUSTION CHAMBER YOU CANT JUST PORT AND THINK THE CC ARE GOING TO BE THE SAME AIR FLOW IS ALL DIFFERENT NOW ENGINE WILL NOT PERFORM WELL NO GUESS WORK MAN
CC'ing every chamber on a pair of factory iron street heads is a waste of time. Taking such steps is mainly reserved for better heads intended for Racing. Hand porting iron heads is "Hit and Miss" you will never attain the SAME cc in every chamber.
It can be done either way. We will base that decision, on how the layout of the tile works. 90% of the time we will start with the first course resting on the countertop. Regardless it is a caulked joint at that transition. We use a translucent white silicone. But clear silicone is just fine.
Speedmaster and legitimate bad press…saw where they copied another innovators valve body, and were selling them on Summitt… Now problems with their budget BB Mopar heads… I have a set of the heads. They would not work with my application a 400 low deck w/girdle stroked to 517. One issue was going with a solid lifter roller cam and stronger springs being required and cutting the spring pockets. The Speedmaster roller rockers had similar fitment issues to yours. Clearancing as described ascper ‘Stan the Man’ at Speedmaster was really not an option. Some Comps roller rockers did work. Next issue was gaining 3/8ths pushrod clearancing, broke through into one of the ports. Now I have read online about drilling a 9/16 enlargement, and installing 17/32 copper/brass tubing as a sleeve after coating it with epoxy, as this will intrude into the ports. At this point looking at other head options.
I feel your pain with them! We sent the big block heads back to Speedmaster at our own cost, of $350. After the hearing about them flat out stealing other companies technology, I will never buy another product from them!
Ya speedmaster makes junk. It’s cheap Chinese stuff. I’ve used it but it’s a lot of work to fix things. If you don’t have a machine shop don’t buy their stuff.
I will never buy another one of “their” products. After this experience and then them getting caught flat out stealing technology, that recently came out with valve bodies.
Wow that sucks! 😕 So you ordered, bought a set of 1.6 rockers to work with your heads and they forgot to tell you those rockers wouldn't work with the valve heights, springs and retainers .😮 Thanks for the update on that company, won't be ordering anything from them 😕.
It actually runs really well. I’m currently running stock rockers with the heads and not the rollers. I’ll be switching them out soon to test them out. I’ll post a video update shortly. Thanks for checking in!
