Good catch! Yes, turn on HEAT to help circulate coolant.

You bet! The front takes between 500 to 600 cc (more than half a quart) and the rear needs more, 800 cc or so (close to a quart). 2 quarts total or 1 quart each will be enough. BMW's specified oil grades for the front and rear are slightly different (I believe for fuel efficiency primarily) but I used the same oil grade for both in the video.

Also, BMW has Hypoid G1/G3 in its recommendations and API GL-5 is compatible so you can look for aftermarket options like Redline and Valvoline.

Thanks for sharing your experience! It's great to hear about your trouble-free ownership and reasonable maintenance costs. 50k on the brakes is incredible! CR shows great reliability history for 2016 3 Series. There were a couple of recalls but hope yours have been addressed properly. Fingers crossed for the transmission; you may ask your mechanic to take a small ATF sample for an oil analysis before deciding what to do with it. It's probably too late to change the fluid, though the ZF 8HP is a solid build!

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for sharing your tips. They make sense!

Yes, I did. Every time you top off the fluid in the master cylinder, put the cap back on.

Thank you! Good bless!

Yes, they are the same. See part numbers along with product links in the video description.

If it isn't a hybrid--hybrid models may have a different procedure without having to monitor ATF temperature--the scanners I list in the video description should support ATF temperature measurement on various Toyota/Lexus models: 1. LAUNCH Creader Elite 205 ($140): amzn.to/3PqcZKT 2. Launch CRP129E ($200): amzn.to/3Tk0QbL 3. XTool D7 ($325): amzn.to/3wUAHZk If you opt for the budget scanner using a custom PID, you do need to find the correct PID for your specific model/year and here is a related thread if you would like to test it: www.rav4world.com/threads/user-defined-pid-details-for-transmission-fluid-temperature-for-iphone-odb-fusion-users.310904/ Let us know if you have additional questions.

So glad to hear this!

You do what you feel is safe, but please be respectful. I will tolerate name calling no more on this channel. Here are the facts: The "plastic" pads are factory BMW, and this is a required procedure to use them. It's amazing to see people's arrogance and prejudice against a great design. Let me be clear, the plastics can bear the load but they are not designed to bear the load of the entire vehicle. They are there primarily to align the lift and are more than strong enough to endure sideway shifts. The load is on the metal/jacks. Again, you can decide what's safe for yourself under the vehicle but stop calling names if you really want to have a discussion and learn a thing!

@profsg I called nobody a name. I implied idiots by stupid things. An open-ended statement directed at nobody specifically. If you felt that it was directed at you, that's all on you. Furthermore, I am well aware that comes from the factory. All these "features" do nothing but add cost to a vehicle unnecessarily.

Yes, and this is what I prefer without a lift. It's quite a challenge to drain the engine block when you have to crawl under the car and it's only a small amount trapped there. And 100% you can do it more often.

Yes, and that's why it's critical to do regular oil change to keep piston rings from getting stuck, among others: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Wq753YdZLtw.html

I am not sure about this. Where did you get this information? Happy to look into it if you can share the link/reference.

@profsg I'm trying to send the link but my comment won't post?

@@profsg ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-LXV6E02UKUA.htmlsi=aezrG_2jq_xUK_J9

Appreciate the information! Also keep us posted how much you drain from the transfer case under the "oil change mode." I got about 560 millimeters/cc out and am curious about the extra amount trapped when the chamber isn't open. I suspect you would be able to drain 600 cc then.

Official torque specs can be found in BMW repair manuals and TIS. However, people share them on various bimmer forums and this is an example: x3.xbimmers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1579401

So glad to hear this!

I believe 2020 RX is already equipped with (wired) Carplay from factory so you don't need this. Have you used the existing Carplay feature with a USB connection? If you want wireless Carplay, you can add a wireless adapter like this: amzn.to/4dixYZR

Sure. Please double check DIP settings on your model/year as it's specific to your model/configuration per Roadtop user manual. For the two problems: 1) If the remote control doesn't work smoothly, there is an option in the carplay system setting regarding your remote control, e.g. touchpad, remote lever (joystick), etc. Select the correct one for your model. 2) As for the audio, make sure you are on AUX (or per your unit's instructions). Do test another app (e.g. with music/youtube/video) to see if you can hear any sound. There is an option on Google Maps to enable/disable voice guidance and sometimes it's disabled. Also, make sure you disconnect the original Lexus bluetooth connection on your phone AND turn off "use original/factory bluetooth" on the carplay's system settings. I discussed some of these settings in the video here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-yaBkp1MbwIU.htmlsi=tzC97I6sKdYLtgh-

​@@profsgI'll check as you told me. Thank you

​@@profsg Professor, I managed to activate the audio while browsing but by doing so I lose the audio from the USB stick! very important for my travels! Can't anything be done to fix it? I haven't solved the problem of the remote touch malfunctioning yet, I'll have to have time to reopen the whole car and redo other tests with the ECU settings in the DIP settings (the software settings don't solve the problem) for now I have to admit that I'm a a little disappointed with the performance of this product, also on my Lexus CT Google Maps or any other app is not displayed in full screen. I also saw the video you recommended but it doesn't solve the problems, I'm thinking of returning the product because if I can't solve it I don't see a real advantage in using this control unit for Android Auto, it would have been better to use the smartphone. (thank you again for your kind replies)

If it's Android Auto, you can toggle the fullscreen mode by selecting/pressing the app icon (e.g. for Google Maps) on the left. Not sure if this will help but I have another review video more focused on the Android Auto: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-WFQJfbzUvdw.html If you do reopen the radio to change DIP settings etc., I'd recommend you keep the unit inside your glove box and reroute the cables. Many people do that because it's much easier to access it whenever there is an issue. Best luck!

​@@profsgThank you

¡Gracias! You are exactly right about shavings over time and renewal of fluid for the functioning of valves without blockage. Thanks again for the greetings from Argentina! Espero con ansias la final de la Copa América el domingo y una victoria argentina. ¡Soy un gran fan del equipo de Argentina desde hace décadas!

Glad you liked it! And appreciate your sharing and reaching out!

Glad you liked it! Based on the list of compatible models, this supports 2016 - 2019 RX350: rebrand.ly/Professor/LexusCarplay My module's audio connection is via AUX, which works fine. However, mine doesn't have the Mark Levinson sound system and I don't know whether it will affect the premium sound quality. You may ask the seller whether they have an upgraded sound input/connection for your model.

Is there genuinely a question here, or are you just frustrated with BMW's design? I'm following the standard procedure with BMW's factory jack pads for better safety and protection. These jack stand adapters are essential for safely lifting a BMW with the factory pads. Any serious shop should use professional adapters to ensure this. What's wrong with taking the time to do what's right, rather than ignoring safety precautions to speed up the process? I bet my own life under the car and appreciate this BMW design, which is better and safer than other cars I have owned.

LoL. People having flat tires would appreciate your design/idea, though it won't help this BMW without a spare on the road. :)

But make sure the car sits firmly on those and it won't shift. Always give it some good pushes before getting under.

You're right. This only works for BMW, MINI, and Toyota Supra, which are all under the BMW brand/design.

The description literally says bmw specifically. So of course the other cars would have it and a regular jackstand head would be fine. Do you have a cape, captain obvious?

Rubber padded stands are great too! But with any tools or adapters, there are ways to use them in the wrong ways to cause damage. I'm confident this will last with proper use, but time will tell.

Don't think so, but thanks for sharing the concern!

Those are plastic and will get damaged if you put a load on them. It's way better and safer to do what I did in the video.

@@profsg well I suppose I don't have experience with them outside a 4 post lift. Never damaged the part in all my years of experience. I do understand they are a consumable that is meant to be replaced after worn. Unlike normal lift points (pinch welds specifically) that can get smashed pretty easy.

Idk seems cool to me makes it more secure on the stands

Initially I also thought it was unnecessary but now appreciate the design after some use. On my other vehicles without this, I always have to double check the alignment of jack stands to make sure the car won't slip on them. It takes a couple more minutes to set this up but it's worth it for safety!

- a guy who's never worked on anything in his life

BMW had very bad years when they overused plastics. The quality of this 7 year X3 is impressive, but maintenance is key!

I would not recommend that. If it's a ZF transmission, follow ZF's recommendation. I know Valvoline makes good products and many people reported success using it on many different vehicles. But here is the catch. On the Valvoline Max-Life ATF label, for example, it appears it's compatible with virtually all makes and models. The reality is, they are very different fluid/types and it's impossible for one fluid to meet all specifications. I'd recommend sticking with ZF fluid specification, and you can shop around to get a reasonable price, e.g. from Rock Auto.

You're welcome!

LoL. Though gas is no longer that cheap anymore. I remember when I first arrived in the US twenty years ago, it was only $1. Time flies.

Good point! And that small increase in fuel efficiency with VCM was neglectable when the gas price was much lower. Adding the risk of running low on oil and long-term damage to the catalytic converter, it's never a good idea not to disable VCM.

Sorry to hear about that! Unfortunately, it might be too late to perform a transmission fluid change now with 152k demanding miles on it. If you consider taking the risk to do a drain and fill to potentially extend its life, I'd recommend a transmission oil analysis to better understand the fluid condition and make an informed decision.

It's indeed risky unless most of these miles are high-way and light-load. I'd recommend taking a transmission fluid sample and getting an oil analysis done, e.g. through Blackstone labs, before making a decision. This will reveal how degraded the oil is and specifically the extent of clutch material wear. Keep us posted!

if its real bad pour half the old fluid back in with the new fluid then do it again in another 10k miles.

Sure! Here is the link to the muzzler (same seller but new product): ebay.us/2niKUj Will update related links.

@@profsg thank you so much ❤❤❤

91 ohm will work in the spring/summer in PA. It might throw a code in the winter. You may consider switching to an 82-ohm in the winter, which works for me.

Is there a in between​ were you can set and forget?@profsg

It's possible to find an ohm in between for most of the time. But I believe it may still throw a code occasionally, if not rarely. If you know the code is okay, you can ignore it and let it disappear on its own. There is also a pricier S-VCM controller that can automatically adjust itself.

Imma give 85 a shot the worst it could do is activate eco once every moon lol ​@profsg

You are welcome! I'm glad it helped. Indeed, the alternator is right under the solenoid and likely needs a replacement too. Good job!

@@profsg not yet, anyway. I just replaced it (again) a couple months ago

No, I don't experience any noise myself. However, if it's engine noise, it's likely due to a ground (GRN/D) wire and you can simply disconnect it to see if that mitigates the issue. Keep us posted.

Don't get discouraged. Did you meant after the first 1000 miles the VCM muzzler no longer works? You may need to adjust muzzler resistance if the ECO light comes on due to seasonal temperature fluctuation. This will mitigate oil burning if not completely eliminating it. Mine is over 160K miles too. Frankly, burning 1 quart every 6000 miles is not bad at all. Even newer engines burn oil and, per Honda's standard today, burning 1 quart every 1000 miles (perhaps even every 750 miles) is "acceptable". I don't think so; but yours is manageable. Switching to 5W-30 is okay; but I doubt it will reduce oil burning. BTW, have you ever replaced PCV and cleaned EGR passages? Keep up with regular good oil changes every 5000 miles / 6 months and your engine will do just fine.

@@profsg Thank you for your answer. What I tried to say I've installed it VCM Muzzler at 1000 miles on brand new car, VCM was fully disabled. Now at 160k engine burns oil at 1 qt for 6000 miles. It is not my first Honda, they all burn oil at some point. PCV has been replaced as well. I mean Honda owners shouldn't be surprised with some oil consumption no matter what

Thanks for clarifying! You did a great job on the maintenance and the oil burning is minimal compare to many other Hondas out there. I couldn't agree more on the expectation! New engine designs, thanks to EPA's CAFE regulations, are making this and related problems worse.

@@profsg Thank you, Sir!

D-4S, short for Direct-injection 4-stroke gasoline engine engine Superior version.

Yes, I did. The universal joint makes it possible to fit and turn the socket in the tight space. Every 30k miles is the interval for transfer case and differential fluid replacement. You can start transmission fluid change later at 60k and then every 30k after: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-2tKXyDsPPH0.html

And given that you only drive about 6000 miles annually, I'd recommend an engine oil change every 6 months, even if it only hits 3000 miles at that point. I discuss oil dilution at the end of this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Wq753YdZLtw.htmlsi=48eP1xtlPZ99-2JA

It's possible but risky for a couple of reasons. The current fluid level in the system may not be correct after 122k miles. Someone could have touched it (accidentally) and set it at an incorrect level. Even if it's at the correct level, you will need to put in the exact same amount you've taken out under the same temperature. I'd strongly recommend following the correct procedure and do it right: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-2tKXyDsPPH0.html I understand reasons people don't like the new procedure, having to raise the car, level it, and monitor the temperature to drain it. Here are a couple of tips to make it easier: 1) On certain vehicles (especially SUVs), you don't have to raise the car. Not sure Sienna has enough ground clearance; but you can test whether you can access the drain plug after taking the driver-side front wheel off (vehicle leveled with one side on jack stand). It works on RX350. 2) Monitoring ATF temperature doesn't require any advanced scan tool. A temperature gun can give you enough precision within the temperature range or, if you prefer, you can program a $20 OBD interface with Torque Pro app to monitor ATF. Check out this video and see comments below for the PID/formula on your vehicle: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ytdcZ1X8EeQ.html Again, I'd recommend not taking the shortcut but follow the procedure to replace the fluid and set it at the correct level.

Good morning! If this is what you meant, amzn.to/4cCfumH for CarlinKit 5.0 Wireless CarPlay/Android Auto Adapter USB for Factory Wired CarPlay Cars, then the answer is no. As the name suggests, it's for cars already with factory WIRED CarPlay or Android Auto and the Carlink kit will add WIRELESS connectivity to the existing functionality. On 2017 Lexus RX350 shown in the video, it doesn't come with any factory CarPlay module (wired or wireless) and one must follow the installation process in the video to add an aftermarket module to the radio unit. Lexus only introduced CarPlay in later years, which is a typical Toyota strategy to "innovate" slowly.

BTW. The RoadTop module I installed in the video comes with both wired (USB) and wireless CarPlay AND Android Auto.

Thank you! Glad you liked it.

Mode/PID is for the Equation field in Torque, and you can leave Start and Stop blank (default). Also, use Header: 701 if the default header doesn't work.

Ok, thanks, Professor. My vehicle is a 2017 Highlander XLE AWD. When I input the data as you have posted in the description and hit "Test", I get a value of -41.86°F, without it being connected to and communicating with the vehicle. Have I done it correctly? I don't want to connect it and mess something up potentially. I would appreciate your help!!

@@alra8506 The RX350 PID I posted in the description should work for a Highlander of this generation. You do need to connect your phone (Torque Pro app) to your car with engine running to test the PID. I recommend testing it first thing in the morning (after car has cooled down to ambient temperature) or after you have been driving it (in which case the reading will be close to ATF operating temperature around 190 F). Keep us posted!

​@@profsgSuccess indeed, using the $30 BAFX scanner!! The car sat all night and all day. I programmed the Torque Pro according to your settings, and upon starting the car, it immediately read 84.4°F, which was close to the ambient temperature of roughly 83°F. While holding the brake pedal, I shifted through D, N and R multiple times and within about 3 minutes, it reached roughly 97°F, which I believe is just short of the lower threshold for ATF level adjustment. I also drove around town for about 15 minutes and saw it gradually reach around 180°F before getting back home. I believe this shows the accurate temp. However, I found another product (Hyper Tough HT500) that claims it has the capability of reading and displaying real-time values for just about all modules and specifically the ATF. I decided to order it from Walmart for $50 and compare the readings with those of the BAFX. I will keep you posted on how that goes. Depending on what I see, I will keep one and return the other

Thanks for sharing the result! I am so glad it worked out for you! Good to know about Hyper Tough HT500. It could be a great option for people who prefer not to deal with PIDs. Kindly keep us posted!

In this case, you may consider removing the tailgate panel/trims on the internal side to access fasteners for the handle, license plate, etc. so you can loosen them from behind. It takes some patience but the removal is straightforward by prying them from retainer clips. Here is a related video on 2011 and later models: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-or8v7IRSxZw.htmlsi=r3EEvWpfuhk29fQk Don't take my word but, from what I remember for a job on the handle, getting access to 2005-2010 Odyssey tailgate handle/license plate is rather similar.

How many miles on the car? I suppose it's over 100k given the age. There is always a risk either way. In the following video, I discuss benefits and risks with replacing transmission fluid on a high-mileage Toyota: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-X7iQ8hWcB_w.html Keep us posted if you have additional questions and/or how things go if you decide one way or the other.