Join me while I fix and build whatever comes my way. My goal is for my videos and articles at dustybuilder.com to inspire others to do the same. I would like the Dusty Builder channel to be a resource and inspiration for other Do it Yourselfers.
Baby trees sounds way better than baby saplings.. I actually have a rhyme for it, Baby trees if you please Tome kruk is on his knees serving me. He’s a troll dawg got like subscribers 3, keyboard warrior in his mom’s basement geez… he’d be better off takin a sawed off in his mouth and squeeze…
Nice work. Thanks for sharing. Quick question on the footing, instead of filling up with dirt could you just fill up with cement as well, I assume even more strong ?
Concrete around the post will rot the wood faster…… it traps moisture. A better option is to backfill with clean gravel.If you are an overachiever, you could fill the hole up with concrete instead.
This is really cool, I hope to buold my own home some day (I dont have experience building or any constructions friends, but I hope to gain at least the friends in the coming years before I build), I'm proud of you!
Thanks for the prior reply Tom. Your video is super helpful and I love the style that lips over the pool instead of under the caps. One more question…. I am digging my holes out Monday. How close did you dig you holes out to the pool? I’m using 6x6 post I believe like you did. I’m going to do the 4” concrete pad like you did. Dig my hole to 12 inch diameter and I was going to have the edge of the diameter 12” from my pools metal wall.
The joists can cantilever past the beam one quarter of their length….. I think my mine were 2 ft away. If yours are only 1 ft away you should be fine……. But it might be tight trying to reach up and sneak a cover over the rail……18 inches would be better if you could manage 😬
To clarify. Your 6x6 was 2 feet away from pool wall or 2 feet away OC for the 6x6 post. My township is saying for a 6x6 post I need to dig 3x the post size. 18 inches round. Not just 12? I am going to move my post to 18 inches back from the closest edge of post to pool wall. That sound about right?
I like how you cut the 6x6 out in the back to support your 2x10 joist where the 2x10s move towards the deck. In the front by the pool, how did you secure those 2 x10s that are resting in the support beam by the pool area where the 2x4s are sister joist for the over hang? Or is the weight of the platform enough?
You used to be able to ‘toe nail’ the joists to the beam. That’s honestly probably fine. But Now a metal connector is required. I used ‘hurricane ties’
@@thedustybuilder Thank you for your comment. I love the way you explain. I live in Croatia and it is very difficult to find such a small size of stone.
@@danielk7688 Thank you again! It probably doesn’t matter the size then, just as long as the stone is round. Bigger stone will have more texture, but might look cool
I hear you, but this load was not heavy enough for the wood to flex, plus I'd rather take a 2x4 to the head vs a hunk of steel if something went wrong!!
I would strongly recommend to use a thick metal plate on top of the bottle jack as it could split the wood end grain lol, need something to spread the load
I have a islander pool from Secard pools that comes out 18 inches of the ground on wood frame. I want to do a concrete deck, will the wooden frame be strong enough to hold the concrete
I would like to use the periscope one off to the side, through an adjacent wall and end right there in the back hallway. Short trip, easier to clean. Our dryer is electric, no gas in this subdivision. The current dryer vent goes UP, not out, 15 feet to the roof. I think this is a fire waiting to happen, even with annual duct cleaning for $125.
Hmmm, when you say end in the hallway......I'm assuming it's going to vent outside. That could probably work, it might get tricky if you need to use a 90 at some point. I agree though, I wouldn't want my dryer venting onto the roof for several reasons!!
here in California, code requires that the handrail extend beyond the last step and wrap back around. That way you can continue grasping the rail when taking that last step
@@thedustybuilderthey make kits for composite handrails. It's usually an aluminum grasp rail that you just cut to size and mount with provided hardware and caps.
Hi Tom, I am really impressed with your work and mission. I would love to add value to your projects by editing your videos and designing thumbnails as a video editor and graphic designer. I have sent you an email with more details. Looking forward to hearing from you! Thanks, Nasir.
Awesome question! You can use 15 amp outlets on 20 amp circuits, it’s in the code book. The exception is you can’t use a 15 amp outlet if is the only plug on a 20 amp circuit, hope that helps
ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-b6VH7jSRVFI.htmlsi=aVMT5vpG4Rx518XY. I used left over concrete for this….. otherwise I would probably make my own mix if you want a similar look. Probably something like 70 percent pea gravel to 30 percent sand.
Only made a few mistakes. I don't recommend using teflon tape with pipe dope. Problem is DIY's think its a sealant when in fact it is a lubricant. NPT (pipe thread) is a tapered thread, requires a tight connection to seal. Use one or the other, not both. It's overkill. Good habit of capping unused gas line, (required in the UMC, (uniform mechanical code.) When soldering, (temperatures under 840 deg.) the flux should not extend to the end. The inside of the coupling needs cleaning, and then apply the flux missing about 1/4" from the end. Flux, (is caustic, that is how it works) is used to clean the pipe and stop air from getting to the soldered joint. The other failure is the heated air in the basement, being used to heat water. The air in the basement has to come from somewhere, so if the venting pulls air to the outdoors, then the basement will require replacement air. Ifl the basement floor, bottom plates and doors, are not sealed, that air comes from the house and outdoors. The most expensive air is the treated air from the house.
Hey man, thanks for watching! I use pipe dope and tape because I have seen others plumbers do this. -I did clean the inside of the fitting, sorry if I missed showing that. -The heat pump does not vent to the outside, it is not creating negative pressure. It acts like a portable air conditioner in the basement…… it draws air in, transfers heat to the water, then blows the same cooler air into the basement. Great idea in the summer, but you are right, I’m stealing hard earned heat in the winter 😬
