The whole car drives perfect still no issues except my shifter auto , is Stiff and When i was on flat ground it jerked a tiny bit from park to drive but stiff from all other gears , with 81k miles ?
Hello, I am sorry I just saw your message. Some of the cables are adjustable. But be sure to check the transmission Mount. If it looks or feels loose, it may need replacing. Lmk Thanks Exodus
@@exodusmovement4596 I was also told it was either the cable under the shift knob or the shift knob is binding up ?....The mount your talking about that is the Box that is under the shift knob correct ? .... I already checked the things under the battery and it looked fine and lubed.... I also would like to add again the Car drives perfect just the shift into diff. gears is stiff
Great video! I'm working on a 2012 Mercedes S550 with W221 engine... attempting to replace the Driver's Side (left of engine) two (2) turbo coolant lines. I replaced the right one... but now seeking to replace the left. Question is the black plastic that broke off from going into the water pump... what size is the bolt holding that plastic piece together. Is what hiding behind the pulley - is that easy to get to after removing the serpentine belt. I can see the black plastic but tracing it to the engine, it seems impossible to reach due to heat shield.... and I can't see the bolts (from the top) where it's holding the coolant line in place. I heard you mention an "L" Bracket... but unsure if that's the same in W221 engine. Thanks in advance for your feedback. And Much appreciated your willingness to share with others.
Hello and so sorry I haven’t seen your messages. You have already fixed this issue, but yes there are two pulleys that are in front of the lines, the bracket is one that is holding the lines together and there is one underneath the A/C compressor that attaches to the engine block.
I’m thinking about doing this job to my own 530i. Would you recommend? Or do you think it’s too hard for your average joe? I’m good with tools, but definitely not a mechanic. And not too much experience with them. I just don’t want to start taking things out to then realize I’m way in over my head
Hey I’m in the same predicament as you currently with my 2019 X3 B48 motors. Turbo coolant return line leaking and I’ve been quoted $600+ for this job. Were you able to do this on your own or did you end up taking it to a shop?
@@RKSAINT I took it in because the mechanic charged me 400+ for everything. But I still have coolant problems. After I changed this. The over flow and the radiator hose went. Now it’s a different hose and I’m starting to get pretty pissed off
I think it’s about 8hours flat rate. But honestly it will seem like more. But take your time and see what you are doing. Have a lot of silicone and PB blaster spray..
Hey there. So I just had my rear brakes and rotors replaced and I have a flashing red light on my dashboard as well as the light on my parking brake button flashes red. I can use my parking brake button and the electronic brakes work fine, but the lights won’t go away. When I drive off, my dashboard tells me with a big red symbol saying “Release Parking Brake.” Any suggestions on what to do?
Hey I read your message again. I’m not sure but it has to be scanned. I’m thinking something was left unplugged, or installation was not done correctly.
Question the coolant line that goes into the turbo on the driver side what size bolt goes in and also what tool did you use to get the lines in thank you for your time
The tool is a Torx E30 and remember that the lines sit on top of each other. 1 bolt in the center. Putting them back in remember which one came out first. It goes last and try and clean passage way cleaner, and use a lot of silicone lubricants on installation.
If i only need to replace thermostat ..what do i need to take off to complete job?..or can i complete job with out taking off anything ...thank you sir your help is much appreciated..
It will depend on the model engine we are working with. In the video you would have to remove, serpentine belt, and upper radiator hoses, and that’s where you will in counter the jointing of the turbo coolant lines. They are close enough that you can easily break them. Advice torx bit 8-12mm E. 25-45mm T. The thermostat housing has 3 bolts on the head and 2-3 depending on model on the extended area. If I think of more I will let you know.
Did this job today. You can take the front transmission mount out from the top effortlessly. As long as the transmission is supported you can just lift it out with no issues.
I will tell you no, but make sure that the Ebrakes are not on. Some of them do not require the scanner. I guess it depends on your model. Some the piston returns with out the scanner.
@@jsesko no need to replace the cover or gasket if it is not leaking. The grommet inside the cover. But if the grommet is not leaking then no. If not leaking. Don’t worry
I had to replace my spark plugs in the back of engine so before I started taking everything apart. First I removed both wipers then the plastic cover and the metal plate. Then I started taking everything apart and the 2 screws in back of the manifold that holds it in place was very easy to take off. Lifted up the manifold turned it to the side as far as it can go and the 2 hoses on the manifold was very easy to take off. It take approximately 6 minutes to take off the wipers and plastic cover and metal plate first. I even had enough room to look in each cilenders in the back. So remember to take the wipers the plastic cover and metal plate off first.
M278? I have a small oil leak by passenger side turbo. Cant tell where its coming from but its leaking onto heat shield causing a burn of the oil. Not a huge leak. YET
There is an oil line on the front corner of the valve cover that goes to the turbo. It is partially covered with a heat shield rapping or pressure line. Looking line
@exodusmovement4596 i saw a braided stainless line going to top.of.turbo and it isnt leaking. The oil.is just below this area though under turbo on heat shield. It isnt a lot of oil but im def worried its a huge job. You dont need to drop exhaust or anything to get to these? Is it 3 to 4 hours labor?
@@scottp6761 on the end of that braided line is an o ring, go figure rubber in a heated area. I don’t think you have to drop the exhaust to fix this. I thought about the lines underneath the turbo that goes into the back of the motor? If possible can you send me a picture of the area?
