Know Your Parts was started by the Automotive Aftermarket Suppliers Association (AASA) with the goal of sharing information on the importance of using quality parts. It has grown to be a valuable resource with expert advice for techs looking for answers.
Thanks that saves me a lot of money my cousin help me to change in my Lexus rx350 14 the part cost $48 and the labor was tricky due to small spaces and to remove the circle look also removed the bottom plastic covers.
Blessings and great info, I am trying to locate my number 3 coil on my 2014 Dodge Durango V6 Limited , any idea of the location of the coils I only saw one coil so far will look more tomorrow, I wondering if I have to take intake manifold off to locate the rest of the coils, any help would be greatly appreciated it much and thank you much and God Bless
I replaced mines but the code came back after a day and it has been on for 3 days now . Now codes P0455 and P0457 are popping up . I made sure it was tight but idk what else it can be
i replaced mine and the connector is pointing down so its really difficult to get the pigtail connector on. Is there a way to change that to pointing up or back toward the rear of the truck.
Good video for the most part, but I've gotta say: THERE IS NO REASON TO REMOVE THE 13MM NUT ON THE ROCKER ARM!!! That is very irresponsible for you to include that in the disassembly. You don't need to take it off to change an injector and it can cause MASSIVE problems if you're an amateur, like myself, and you do remove it. I only did it to one piston, before I realized it was unnecessary. I tried to put it back to match the other ones, but after I finally got it all put back together and drove it around, one of those nuts walked off and bent my push rod all kinds of squiggly, kicked the bridge pieces loose in the motor. Talk about a knock, more like a bulldozer! Almost ruined my engine. I'm pretty upset about it. If you are watching this to change injectors, DO NOT REMOVE THAT 13MM NUT ON THE ROCKER ARMS
My old one is stuck in there. Having a hell of a time removing it especially with the rest of the car in the way. The old one is all broken up with just a little bit left in there. It's been a pain. We ran out of time but are going to try to remove it again another time. 🙃
Do you want a fuse to be durable? No, you want it to break when needed. Do you want meat to be durable? no, you want it to be tender. Yet those things are valuable. Also a bank account has nothing to do with durability yet it is valuable. Pretty kindergarden level video
2011 highlander new compressor expansion valve condenser pressure read good when ac on but compressor kicks off after a few seconds at idle at higher speeds works fine any help ? Could it be this sensor?
It's that simple LOL not on a older car, you can beat these to hell, smash them, break them, and they still do not come off . You have to shatter it in little pieces and use a pick to get all of the parts out of the pump.
1:09 🤔I don't know about anyone else but my oil comes from the oil filter then to the turbo don't think it be pumping straight from out the crank case into a turbo won't last. obviously that's where all the oil comes from, but it is pumped up to the filter first before it goes anywhere else after crank / sump tray
If you can not remove the sensor just unplug it and plug the new one in and zip tie it out of the way the sensor does not need to be put back in the AC pump
This problem is easy to solve- Go back to throttle body injection or at least dual injection where half of the fuel goes in over the valve. The best way is into the manifold right above the intake valve. Made up problems caused by our insane government.
@@mal3x If you can not remove the sensor just unplug it and plug the new one in and zip tie it out of the way the sensor does not need to be put back in the AC pump
@@mal3x yup I could not get mine out at all without smashing the bum, so I just unplugged it, plugged in the new one and zip tied the new one to the radiator hose,,, works just fine.. 2014 toyota camry LE