Thank you for watching. Yes, that is about right. It takes around 2-3 weeks to refurbish whole pack. It depends on the health of the batteries when you start.
I need help guys. All my low numbers come at 0000 and highs between 0106 - 0110. My whole hybrid battery capacity was at 49% when test before taking it out of my vehicle. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong. I checked all modules with a Ohm meter for voltage and they are all about 7.0 volt. I'm new to this. So, excuse my ignorance. Any idea?
Thanks for watching. Most any hybrid pack can have some life restored like this. The settings will change based on battery chemistry and capacity/voltage. Most of the Toyotas from this time frame use the same batteries in which case the settings will be the same. Compare the batteries you have in your Highlander to these in the video, if the same then use same settings. If different you may want to visit a forum for the Highlander and see what people there have to offer. I have not personally refurbished Highlander battery pack before.
Thank you for watching. When using the red CQ3 charger and message END displayed you should have results for all programmed cycles. Pressing the MODE button should report the results of cycles to you. If your charger is not working in this way you may need to contact EV-Peak support.
@@GreggFesto Thanks Gregg, I just found a thread on Prius Chat and there are differences between models BGAUD vs EV Peak and they list some slightly different settings. I will try them out. I found the factory reset under user settings, keep scrolling and it's there. I reset all factory settings and started over and will try again and see if END allows me to see programmed cycles.
@@GreggFesto After resetting factory settings under user settings, I only get CAPA (capacity), I have not got an END screen. When I press MODE it does give me the values. I took Gary Markowski's advice and have been going more gradual starting with 3300 mAh for 2 cycles with a 6.5V discharge and it seems to be working, but I can't figure out how to identify a bad module doing it this way! Could be that doing it this way will refresh stagnant modules, and hopefully I won't have to buy any new ones!
Thank you for watching. It usually takes 2-3 weeks for me to complete this job. The length of time will depend on the health of the batteries. More cycles = more time.
@@GreggFesto Thanks. When I run the each cycle, at the end, it flashes FULL. What does that mean? I can't find the answer anywhere. Or maybe I don't know what to look for.
@@GreggFesto I realized what I was doing wrong. I was starting the from a wrong screen. Once I selected NiMh battery, used ➡ to NiMh Cycle D➡C screen and started from there. Now, when it finishes, it shows END and the numbers I'm getting is all 0 on top and a 3 digit number on the bottom like 106 or 107 or 109. Yours shows 4 digit on top and 4 digits on the bottom. I've must of set something wrong!!
These were without a doubt the most unique and interesting cars in NASCAR's history. The Dodge Daytona or Plymouth Super-Bird were absolutely incredible cars. The #43 Richard Petty was and still is one of my all-time favorite cars. I was still a little kid when he drove this at Daytona. I was born in 1967, so I was never able to see this car race. The 70's NASCAR was the best times in NASCAR's history. Again I am not, repeat NOT bashing NASCAR's racing nowadays, however the cars are all carbon copies of one another. There is little to no differences between any of the cars, except for paint, sponsors, etc. As a kid I used to watch Speed Racer. The Mach🟥5️⃣🟥 was one of my favorite cars. I used to love Hot Wheels and Matchbox Die-Cast cars. I used to race them on our long coffee table or any other long flat surfaces I could find. In the mid 70's I started watching the 🌍🌎Wide🌐🌏World🌍of🌐Sports🌍🌏. They used to showcase different sports. But whenever racing was the spotlight I was all-in. From the dirt track races, to the motocross races, to NASCAR's races, to Indy-Car racing. The Daytona 500 and the Indianapolis 500 were two of the most anticipated races 🏁 🏎 of the year for me. Mario Andretti, Richard Petty, Darrell Waltrip, AJ Foyt, Al Unser, Bobby Unser, Rick Mears, and so many other legendary drivers made the 70's and 80's a epic time for racing. But for me it was the cars. The cars that they drove during the 70's and 80's were easily the best.
Thanks for watching and taking time to comment. I agree with you, these were incredible cars and great drivers. Much more entertaining than the NASCAR of today.
Yeah can anybody help me out with my issue! My red C Q 3 charger doesnt show end or capa it just returns to user setting screen with no results at all?? Im regretting pulling it out of car. As the car was running at the time. I followed all gregs step by step video.
Thank you for watching. Pressing the MODE button on the red CQ3 should display the results of the discharge/charge cycles. If this is not the case you can send an email to EV-Peak Corporation and they can determine of there is an issue with the charger itself.
There’s a way to do it. You put your sensors in a pvc tube (2”) and cap the ends then thread a Schrader valve into it. Pump up the tube to the right pressure and put it in your trunk or under the seat, wherever. Your car will pick up the pressure readjng from the sensors inside the pvc tube. Make sure to seal one end with threaded fittings so you can get the sensors out if needed.
Original hybrid battery on my 2006 failed at 150,100 miles. Bought a replacment from the dealer. It failed at 65,000. Followed Gregg's method. It took two weeks to refurbish but did not replace any modules. Found out in the process the dealer sold me a refurbished battery. It has now been 6 months and it is running like new, back to 52 mpg on the highway. Thanks Gregg.
I your other video, where you add the suspension spacers to lift your Commander... well, I did exactly the same lift... but the front cv axles wouldn't take the angle... so I put smaller spacers in... the same thing.... so I changed the cv axles... same thing... any ideas?
Thanks for watching. I had no issues with CV axles at all. I have heard that if the spacer is taller than 2" it could cause an issue. What are the symptoms indicating the axles will not take the angle? Did you check alignment after installation? My first thought would be something in the alignment needs to be adjusted.
Yes, I did adjust the control arms to correct the camber. I do not believe that they were all the way out, I got it close to my eye and then took it to alignment shop. One thing you might think about getting are adjustable ball joints. The shop that did my alignment installed some of these for me, they said it would be a good next upgrade. I am thinking that camber adjustment could be an issue for you. Perhaps the angle of the CV axle combined with odd spindle angle is causing noise in the CV joint?
Thank you for watching. It is not too bad of a job and is well worth it if you upgrade to LED lights at the same time. It feels like driving a much newer vehicle.
Thanks for watching. Not exactly sure how long we let the air out to do this but there is enough air lost that we needed to top the tires off after the procedure.
Question why has Get FPV placed a disclaimer on these chargers that they NOT for use on Hybrid car batteries? Have you experienced? Seems like you have done many many cycles with your two units…. Perhaps others don’t get your settings correct? I prefer your assessment method to many load test, and other options. Let me/ us know please.
Thank you for watching. I have heard recently about this warning but not sure why this is the case. Have they changed something in the charger since I purchased mine? My units were purchased several years apart and seem to work exactly the same. I have been using CQ3 for over 6 years with fantastic results. I have the Red CQ3 running on a battery right now as I type. The only issues I have ever had with these chargers is with the small cooling fan inside which starts to make bearing noise. The fan is cheap and easy to replace.
Now that was thorough how to! Love the welding wire rigging. Gives a chance to cycle /salvage /refurb cells that make your cut in numbers provided. Really great content using solid available affordable technology. Thank you
Thank you for watching. Did the parking light turn on as in the video? If yes, then perhaps the TPMS sensor in wheel has a dead battery so it will not report to the truck that the pressure is changing? I suggest trying a different wheel to see if the same thing happens. If still no go, then perhaps a trip to the tire shop is needed to get a diagnosis.
Hi Greg Festo I just wanted to pass and say THANK YOU SO MUCH. You have been an amazing help on the process of refurbishing my battery and your quick response to every question I had in the process. I had 0% of understand the hybrid battery and even so I have plenty of family members that are mechanics nobody knew how to help either. I will recommend this video as much as I can to every Hybrid owner I know to help your channel grow and if there’s any other way I could help please reach out. Again thank you from the bottom of my heart sir you’re amazing in explaining and answering my tedious question. Wish you the best of luck in everything God bless 🙏🏽🙏🏽 And for anybody doubting they can do it stop thinking that way. You can best of luck and ask my friend over here he is the best.
On my 2013 Toyota Prius that I bought 3 years ago with 72,000 miles on it when I first got it I was getting about 45 mpg which was okay. 3 years later and 115,000 miles on it I am getting 39 mpg right now. Would refurbishing my battery like this bring that mileage back up or is there another problem with the car that you might know about? In advance thank you for any advice.
Thank you for watching. A hybrid battery pack that is declining in health can indeed be one of the reasons for MPG decrease. This is because the battery has less capacity so the car will use gas engine more to compensate.
I'm having lost of fun working on my 2007 toyota HV. I'm half way through and I have saved 4 modules so far after 10 or more cycles for each. If I can saved at least half of the HB I'll be so happy
Another thing I will point this out about wearing gloves. If u have to change from halogen to new halogen. U definitely need to wear gloves. But if u change from halogen to led. U don’t really need a glove for that. U throwing those halogen bulbs in the garbage and with led bulbs. It’s all aluminum. So u should be fine without it 😊
@GreggFesto How’s ur Lasfit - LC plus 9006 led bulbs? Still goin strong so far? Because these led bulbs get on a cool side. And not hot. Bulbfacts tested them. For after 27 minutes of run time. Which is the average commuter time in the US. Get the cool 123 degrees Fahrenheit. Anything that’s above 150 degrees Fahrenheit is soenthing u need to take in the consideration. Anything that’s below 150. Is a good led bulbs. Meaning the higher the temperature, the shorter the lifespan. The lower the temperature, the longer the lifespan. And these LC plus I can confirm to thanks to bulbfacts. These led bulbs are perfectly well balance: They claim is 25W per bulb 2500 lumens per bulb. The observation is actually 23.5W per bulb 3450 lumens per bulb: But remember. Lumens is the measurement of the light source. If u put them a headlights or fog lights. And I measure them in a certain distance of point in space. U measure in lux. Which that’s a better measurement. So keep that in mind.
@@GreggFesto glad to hear u had great experience with them. That’s what we run with our Toyota and Scion models. Such as LD plus switchbacks, LA plus, LC plus, and LCair. And it’s incredible.
Thanks for watching. I used stainless steel TIG wire but it can be any metal that conducts. If you ordered new bus bars then you can use them along with your old ones to get the job done. Bailing wire works well too.
What were the symptoms of the truck before you changed the valve body? Was in not moving while you were in gear? Then after you changed it the truck acted as it should? Having the same problem that’s why I’m asking thanks!
Question, which of the two chargers would you recommend the blue or red? I bought the red one. And bought the wires you suggested, the machine fried. I had four modules connected with the four sets of wires, with separation of three modules connected to prevent heat. Kinda not sure to buy another charger. Any suggestions? None of the modules are shorted.
Thank you for watching. I have not used Blue before. I have a Silver one and a Red one both of which have done very well for me. I have not had any problems with them other than needing to replace some cooling fans due to noisy bearings. Contact EV-Peak support and let them know about your charger, maybe you can get a replacement.
@@GreggFesto Thank you. I said blue instead of silver but mean the same. Do both units have same operating parameters? I assume both are equal in programming. Great videos!
Thank you for watching. The pack will only be as strong as the lowest value battery. I use 5000mah as my cutoff point. I reject anything that does not make this capacity.
That's good to know thanks for the video and the feedback, I ended up buying 5 replacement packs after using your method same dis/charger ,I told the company one of the 5 modules is bad only 4500mah discharge and they had me tell them how i did the test they told me I was never supposed to Charge them to 7500mah and they say 6500 mah is the max charge on these so denied my warranty so I'm out 37$ no big deal just wanted your opinion the one was only 4500 mah discharge other ones were over 5k mah@@GreggFesto
Thank you for your feedback. You are not actually charging the battery to 7500mah in a standard way but rather setting the cutoff at 7500mah when using delta peak charging. Did you end up buying another battery or did you install the 4500mah one?
Hi Gregg what’s the minimum you suggest for the discharged number? I found some of mine that reach around 3,800 till 4,000 is always the range of my minimum
