Unfortunately, it seems that, as of July 2024, this is not available from any website to do with Wargames Models. It also seems that Wargames Models doesn't exist anymore; they are Wargames Exclusive. It doesn't seem that they have anything other than figures.
Thanks for taking you time to make this helpful video. Ages ago, I recall some advice regarding not the flat end of the knife but the length, shape and angle of the 'neck' (for want of a better word). The bit between the handle and the shape tool, lets say. Hope that makes sense. The advice was to try and get one with a longer, more defined angle or something like that. Possibly concerning the distance between the substrate you are working on and your fingers/hands touching the surface or something? Heck, I wish I could remember exactly. All I know is, this foggy memory has stayed with me for years. And I have avoided buying palette knives coz they don't look like they have this correct 'neck'! No-one seems to address the 'neck' of the tool, only the shaper end. Who knows - maybe my unclear memory is completely wrong. Does this make any sense to you?
It absolutely does make sense! I've done a lot of oil painting over the years, but have settled on a heavy impasto style - and for a good while my knuckles were forever getting messy! Then I found the knife i pick up at 4:14. That one had a really deep dive on the neck, and the perfect angle on the foot... if you are planning to be standing in front of a canvas reaching straight out in front of you, then that neck depth is essential but also it is really important to have a foot that angles back enough. As I say... 4:14 is the knife you are looking for!
@@ronniebfemale2881 hi - great question! That is a piece of glass with grey primer sprayed on the underside... it is the bottom piece of an old glass tv stand - handy rubber feet to keep the primed surface from getting scratched. thanks for watching!
That is a great question! I'll let you in to a secret... all skin tones are based on brown. The trans oxide brown can easily be modified with a little red and white for lighter complexions. Now, for a one tube equivalent, there are a few companies that make a base "Flesh tint" that operates in the same way as you see here. Thanks for watching!
Why do these paints always look super glossy, runny and unlike oil? Weird, but I ABSOLUTELY LOVE THIS VIDEO NEED MORE MIXING ASAP PLEASE. You should do every color all the way to tertiary colors and beyond
The logic there is that there is a risk that the paint separates out, and you end up with oil at the top, and overly thick paint... it takes years, and you should always condition the paint before you use it anyway - mixing in oil if required... bit of a non issue to my mind, but some folks do hang their tubes upside down for that reason
The ebay link still works though - you will be able to contact them through that.. definitely worth reaching out to them if you have any questions! Thanks for watching!
Do you think that mixing acrylic paint tends to be so much messier and take up more room? I feel like oils are like butter and acrylics just take so much more spreading around I feel like I use most of my palette just trying to mix a few colors! Do you have any pointers?
Yes! I've thought that many times... oil is delight to work, but I too find acrylics harder to mix - partly because they dry out too quickly, but mostly because the different paints can have wildly different viscosities so just don't mix nicely... My advice to get around this is use a paper plate as a palette rather than a waxed paper palette (they are too slippery), and where you have different consistencies, squish the thicker acrylic into a pool of the thinner rather than trying to mix straight away using a really wide palette knife BUT If your lighter colour is thicker, try to thin it down with some medium and mix the dark colour into the thinned light colour instead (else you can end up mixing way too much). Hope that helps, and thanks for watching!
That's a great question... for long term storage yes... for a while I had them hung upside down with bulldog clips for exactly that reason; these are the ones I use on the regular, so less chance of separation... also, I got frustrated with the labels being upside down!! Thanks for watching!
@@mythribg3349 Try mixing a little burnt sienna into the burnt umber to warm it up a bit... that should give you a close starting colour - although not transparent. I can't think of a one tube alternative to the transparent oxide brown, but mixing will get your base colour close to where you need it to be! Thanks for watching!
Hi Edwina - great question! I've painted sand many times, but usually in a beach scene rather than dunes... I will add it to my practice list though - painting any sand is not as tricky as it looks - less is more... sand is definitely a subject where you benefit from the illusion of detail rather than slavishly copying reality! Thanks for watching!
Hard to know without seeing the scene, but I'd recommend you start with mixing in some burnt umber to the standard mix; Burnt Umber tends to cool off colours, and is often used in shadows... give that a go!
There are hundreds of mixes for skin tones, but in truth, they are ALL based on a kind of orangey brown... These are just two out of the tube options for darker skin tones... for another super easy way to achieve some very convincing skin tones, try this: ru-vid.combgOCfTyRGYs
Hi 😊 For an intense deep blue similar to navy blue, try prussian blue. For the sky, I use Ultramarine for the zenith (the very top), cobalt blue in the middle where the fluffy clouds are, and cerulean blue right down at the horizon
You should add text, write the name of the colors so we can print the pic and still know What color is What. Or know by watching your video without sound. Feels important that you add the color names beside each color
Hi Sindy - that's a great question! I mean that we are calming the colour down by using the complementary colour to grey it out; as we mix opposite colours they become duller... more mellow - we can use that effect to make overly vibrant tube colours more realistic for use in a painting
Hey Grace! Sure - these are both Michael Harding paints - artist quality, but worth every penny! The colours are Burnt Umber (no.126), and Transparent Oxide Brown (no.224). Thanks for watching! 😊
Thank you so much for your comment... I guess it just takes a long time to grow a channel - thank you for watching! 😊 If you'd like to help me out by pointing some other people in this direction it would be hugely appreciated! DT
