I see you like kodiak bows. Does kodiak use any string or is it restricted. I like the Super kodiak and kodiak. Also looking at the kodiak hunter. Which one would you recommend? I got told they shoot same but handle different. Kodiak smoothest shooters out of all the bear bows?
@@jblanla if you are shooting fingers start at 5/8 inch high nock point then shoot bare shaft into a target from 15 yards and see which way the shaft hits if it is tail high lower nock point if it is tail low raise nock point
I find it less hassle with putting the bare hair arrest on just put it on runner. Razor blade comes out. Perfect every time no tracing no fussing. Just perfect. Try it sometime.
Ordered twice and once the limbs were 5lbs less and the next time they were 5lbs more than ordered. The main issue I have is that this bow uses the same riser design as the Black Hunter (Junxing F171, F178). But the limb attachment is not compatible with Black Hunter limbs. You would expect that a small company like Toparchery/Huntingdoor would have their bows following the existing standards. But for no good reason they decided that their riser and limbs not be compatible with anything else. So, Toparchery you suck!
Ordered twice and once the limbs were 5lbs less and the next time they were 5lbs more than ordered. The main issue I have is that this bow uses the same riser design as the Black Hunter (Junxing F171, F178). But the limb attachment is not compatible with Black Hunter limbs. You would expect that a small company like Toparchery/Huntingdoor would have their bows following the existing standards. But for no good reason they decided that their riser and limbs not be compatible with anything else. So, Toparchery you suck!
Ordered twice and once the limbs were 5lbs less and the next time they were 5lbs more than ordered. The main issue I have is that this bow uses the same riser design as the Black Hunter (Junxing F171, F178). But the limb attachment is not compatible with Black hunter limbs. You would expect that a small company like Toparchery/Huntingdoor would have their bows following the existing standards. But for no good reason they decided that their riser and limbs not be compatible with anything else. So, Toaparchery you suck!
Thank you for this video. I watched lots of different videos and chose this to be my archery target. We just wanted a target in the backyard so that our adult children could just play a little archery. I actually used a pallet as the base. And then I followed your instructions. It worked out really well. And I’m not very handy either.
I have a Old Darron bow I used it about four times would like to sell it. Don’t know what it’s worth have the case arrows and sights. It’s about 35 years old and it’s in the case.
i have 500 spine accmos arrows that come in at 309 grain with the field tip which is 100 grain and they also all spine true and fly like lasers as well turkey feathers as well put on straight and use them in both my 45lbs aspen rigth handed and my pse nighthawk left handed trad bows and they work perfect , not sure why yours are so heavy tho that only happened to me on my accmos full wrapped arrows 500 grain for my compound that i run at 54lbs currenlty also spin true and fly like lasers.. the incerets that come with both my arrows models are 100 grain , i have heard and good abd bad on sharrow brand arrows then again all brands out there are the same good and bad stuff
use a lighter arrow the heavyier the arrow the slower it goes i have 520 grain carbons for my compound i have not speed tested but they had a serverl inchs drop at 14 yards compared to my same 500 spinte 385 grain arrows so weight is a speed and accuracy and flight killer so i cranked up my lims from 46 to 54 pound then just a tweak now on the sights to re elevate and bang on baby and can they ever penatrate now to. your over wieghted in those arrows for your bow even your angles are off as well on your tails
Tod, watched all bow reviews. I enjoyed and gained valuable info. I've not seen a review on the Bear Super Kodiac, and a performance comparison would be nice too when possible. Thx you.
I’m getting in touch with you to see if you could help me find out the origination of an old recurve bow that I inherited from my father. It was made by a craftsman by the name of Larry Layton from Arthur Illinois back in 1954, it is signed and dated by him. The bow back is made from elephant tusks and fiberglass facing, it’s labeled with a 54# pull . My father said that this guy was instrumental in instructing Mr. Fred Bear in making this recurve design. I have exhausted all information that I can about this and still getting nowhere. I’m really sorry to say that one of my friends some time ago without my permission decided to try to string it, and proceeded to break my prized possession. I’m wanting to get it restored however I’m not wanting to get in the wrong hands to do so. I think I still have all the pieces. Thx for your time in advance, Lee I’m going to try to E-mail my address
So easy? The only thing we have to know then to be a succesful hunter: At which part of the body of a deer or a boar do I have to aim with a gap of 18" at 15-20 yards? So complicated?
Thanks for the rundown. I just picked up a left hand version of this bow new in the box for $40. Arrow rest had dried out and fallen off but after a once over she should be good to go with a new rest. This is the model of bow dad taught me to shoot with so like going home. Peace.
A well-made systematic and comprehensive video on the process for reloading .45acp rounds in the "Lee Precision Single Stage Press". So happens I just began my reload ambitions and intend to do .45acp bullets with my new Lee Precision Press for starters. Very nice watching your meticulous step-by-step process to help beginners like myself get it right.There are significant details you cover that other clips don't and I like how you flow through your operation in a programmed way to assure that all aspects of reloading are completed and done safely. Keep that work area pristine to assure tenancy in the wife's laundry room. A HUGE THANKS!
Carbide dies don't require lube, as you said. However, lube is always going to be helpful. Non-carbide dies always require lube. The sharp crease on the first case is definitely a case that needs to be rejected. However, a smooth edged dent that isn't too big won't cause any difficulty. The lighting of a cigar by your friend is a MAJOR "No." Kudos for calling him out on this. I will point out that proper technique also says, "No eating or drinking while at the bench." And "Good handwashing after finishing." Overall good video. 👍
Very nice pistol build. I think you just demonstrated what I have found in comparing powder coated to jacketed bullets when chrono graphing. I find all calibers of cast coated to be 35-85 fps faster than jacketed or plated, plus additional accuracy. This shows me that fact due to less friction. I am actually able to back off my powder charge by 1/10-2/1oths less powder to achieve the same velocity as jacketed. I find no fouling in the barrel. I eliminated the lube groove in one mold and noticed 3-5 fps increase in accuracy, plus 10% increase of accuracy. The initial use of Acme coated bullets converted me to cast and coat my own bullets for 38-9mm-45acp. Thanks again for the informative video.
I harvested over 30 deer with mine and it sat since 97. Mine is a 80 model. I've recently picked it back up and it's all I will hunt with from now on. Very little let off but always get pass through.
i have a simple question u probably would know. i have a 50 # 59 kodiak.. what spine arrow should i use ? i use 11/32 wood arrows. also use a 135 zwickey 4 blade eskimo. also i use a 50 # 64 inch take down bear. what would be the correct spine arrow for this? ty richard
The speed may be affected by the brace height. The brace height looks a little high. The Browning catalog recommends a 7 to 8 inch brace height for this bow.
