Hey everyone! My name is Marina Sharp. I've been crafting since 2012, and while I've learned a lot, there's always more to learn. I work primarily with resin and I've learned a lot of the basics of it and my other preferred craft mediums from RU-vid videos. It's safe to say that I wouldn't have advanced as quickly as I did without them. With that said, I decided to create a channel for the crafty folks out there. I'll be teaching the basics, as well as giving advice about the best way to go about some things. While creating my project, I'll be sharing tips and tricks with you, things I wish I would have learned early on. If you have any questions about technique or something i did in the vid, please feel free to email me at marinasharp13@gmail.com.
Yay you are back!! I tried art resin, years ago and was very disappointed with it. Especially since there was so much hype behind it. That being said, maybe it just wasn’t for me. I am looking forward to watching your upcoming videos. Happy 2024 PS, nice new pic.
Personally, I prefer the short videos of just the yellowing comparisons. Lately I am way behind on the video watching and starting to get frustrated with the holidays right here almost. Even though I started Christmas presents in February, I bam behind. So the quick comparison is appreciated! Have you done a comparison for Jdiction? I am fairly new to your channel and don't have time to go back through your videos to check. If you haven't done one, I would really appreciate one!
Thanks for the update Marina. I've been a huge fan of entropy since you mentioned it in your videos way back. Stays pretty clear, dries hard, easy to work with. All of your resin videos have been incredibly helpful. 🙂
Hey!! thanks so much, I think of you quite often, since I took your suggestion and switched to plastic stir sticks! yeah... these results shocked me. I didn't expect that at all. I know i carry on about Super Sap A LOT, but it really is just a fantastic product. Even years later, it hardly yellows.
Hello! At what point did it get cloudy? Sometimes when the liquid resin gets very cold, it can be cloudy, but tends to clear up when mixed with the hardener. If your hardened pieces are cloudy, but cured properly, I'm not sure what could have happened. If you'd like, you can email me photos of what you're talking about, marinasharp13@gmail.com
You can weigh it if you know the proper measurements. Some companies will give you the "by weight" measurements as well as the "by volume" ones. But just because something is a 1 to 1 ratio by volume doesn't mean it will be a 1:1 by weight. Some products will be the same measurements by volume and weight (like liquid diamonds) but not all of them will. The liquids have different densities and some formulas are just meant to be measured by volume. I was going to measure by weight in my "Counter culture DIY" review, but when I messaged the company asking the by volume measurement was also the by weight measurement, they told me that the product is only meant to be measured by volume. I'd suggest reaching out to the company of the product you'd like to use and asking them about measuring by weight :) And yes, eyeballing it isn't a good idea!! I'll get comments in which people tell me that they just "eyeball the product and it's fine" and it makes me cringe. Why not just a take a few extra minutes to do it right, ugh. I appreciate that you want to be as accurate as possible :)
Do you know where is the best place to buy bigger bottles of the mixing liquid? Like maybe gallon sizes? To make bigger and more projects instead of having to use those really small bottles? And any of the other items I may need to make and sell stuff?
there's this one too, it's more UV resistant (yellows less.) I ordered some and I'm doing to do a demo and review soon www.alumilite.com/resins/amazing-clear-cast-plus/
Super informative video! I've been searching all over RU-vid for a video that includes all of this. Thank you so much! Can't wait to start experimenting :D
Excellent! I'm so glad it helped :) I have a shorter version of this video, but there was just so much info that was left out, and i wanted to make a longer version to explain things better. I appreciate you watching
Do you have to use a respirator? They are all out of stock, and or extremely expensive, where I live and I would like to get started on my projects asap, all I have are masks.
Hello! You can be in a well ventilated area and it will be okay. It would be a good call to look for resins that say "no VOC's" and "low odor." If you find you have sensitivities to the products, you'll need a respirator, but if you don't, you should be fine. By sensitivities, I mean if you get a headache, feel dizzy, get a rash, etc. None of those things have ever happened to me, but people are different, ya know?
Am I able to use this type of resins to do the “ICE resin paper jewelry” pieces? I wanted to try these jewelry pcs. Thank you so much! Your videos are very thorough also!
Yes you can! You can use any resin you want, really. Different formulas will act differently, but they have the same end result, they harden into a plastic .
Loved your video. I live out of the country so most products I have to order. This detailed information really helped. To Expensive to return items from Colombia. Is it useful at all to use a heat lamp? Such as UV LED nail dryer Mini Gel nail lamp Portable Curing light for Gel Nail Polish,6w(white) as an example. Or not really necessary? Thank you in advance
I'm so glad this video was helpful :) Sooo, you only need a UV lamp for UV resin, the UV light is how UV resin cures. You don't need that for 2 part resins though, they cure by a heat/chemical reaction. You mix them, leave them for about 24 hours (sometimes more, sometimes less, depending on the formula) and they harden on their own. I wouldn't use a heat lamp on the 2 part resins though. UV resin is a 1 part resin, there's no mixing or measuring involved, you just put the liquid under the light and it cures it. The kits with 2 bottles are a different type. Heat will cause the resin to cure faster, but I've read that too much heat can also speed up yellowing of the resin (all resin yellows to some degree, eventually.) I don't know how true that is, but yeah, I'd just let the product take it's natural course, time-wise. Sometimes in the summer, I'll put my pieces in the garage where it's hotter than in the house to speed up the process, but it get's like 95 degrees in there, max. A heat lamp would be much hotter, possibly too hot.
When you take out the final product out of the mold , I’m going to try and explain myself as best as I can lol but is there anything you recommend on how to smooth out one of the sides ? Just because when I take it out the top is smooth and the bottom has like the crease of the mold I’m not sure how to explain it or if you might understand me lol but maybe I can try filing it down so both sides are even and smooth it out , I guess not that the edges crease , but maybe just smooth out the edges
Hello! So I think I know what you're saying, but can you email me with photos of your project? If i can see it, I can be more help :) my email is marinasharp13@gmail.com
The trick is to not get too close to the mold. Some molds are very high quality silicone and are not affected by the heat, but for lower quality ones, you just keep the torch around 6 inches away from the resin/mold. You can also just use a lighter. If you get super close to the mold and just blast it with the torch, yes you can ruin things. If you swipe the flame over the project from a distance it won't be a problem. Plenty of resin companies suggest using a torch to remove bubbles, but yeah, common sense needs to be used . If you hold a flame in one place, too close for too long, things can get messy.
I've heard of that method! It has something to do with getting rid of the bubbles that have risen to the surface (one of my viewers told me that). I've never tired it though. I'm curious about what happens to the resin, I'll try it out to see. I'm also reading that it can create cells in resin pour art, but I've never tired anything like that
That's a great question! I haven't really thought about it, but I think it's probably liquid diamonds. I have a review of that one as well. It's not super cheap (about 35.00 for 24 ounces) but you can buy less of it at a time. In third place would probably be art n glow, which is cheaper. I didn't like the thickness of art n glow because it gets more bubbles, but it's great for suspending glitter and stuff like that, sometimes you just want a thicker resin for some projects. Its 25 bucks for 16 ounces www.amazon.com/Clear-Casting-Coating-Epoxy-Resin/dp/B07BM9LHRB?ref_=ast_sto_dp I have review of that one too :)
I bought a kit of the amazing clear cast and I’m excited! However, I bought some amazon resin dyes a couple weeks prior and now I’m not sure if I can use them with this brand of resin, does it matter? The kit recommends a certain brand for coloring the resin but I’m unsure if that’s just for advertising
I'm excited for you! Hmm, I'm not sure about that, you're honestly going to have to experiment, but i feel like it should be ok. Can you give me the link to the dye? I'd love to look into it
Maricruz Ceniceros I also bought the same clear cast resin and some dyes from amazon and I have experimented making some earrings and the color dye works really well. Nothing to worry about (:
Wouldn't it be better to measure the resin and hardener in separate containers and then mix them, because what if you poured too much hardener and had to take some out? Wouldn't it already be tainted with resin?
Do what works for you, always. But to elaborate more, I pour into the same cup all the time (and have for years now) and if I end up putting too much hardener, I'll even suck some of it back out with the squeeze bottle top and it's never tainted the product. When it's just one layer sitting on another like that, the only place the resin and hardener are interacting yet are right at the line where the layers meet. The hardener at the top is nowhere touching the resin. If the product was mixed, it would be a different story. but where one layer has just been sitting on another layer for 5 seconds, there hasn't been any chemical interaction yet up at the top where I'm removing the extra hardener.. But yeah, do what works for you, if you're worried, do what you feel comfortable with
Some companies will suggest to pour the hardener first, but I've always poured the resin first and since that's what I'm used to, I don't change that .
You can, but I'd go with something higher quality, this stuff tends to yellow a good amount over time. Art Resin is specifically for pouring onto canvas, and I think counter culture DIY makes a product that's meant for thin pours (over canvas, tumblers, etc.) and they yellow way less. This may be a good product to practice with though if you're a beginner, it's much cheaper than the other brands I just mentioned. Just to get the feel for mixing and measuring and stuff.
Why do I always end up with leftover part b resin with amazing clear cast? I always mix it per instructions, 1:1 ratio, but seems like I always end up with a few ounces of part b, never part a
@@MarinaSharp yes. I do the nail trick after a day or two after curing and they are solid and hard. I do the marker trick on my measuring cups and swirl it over the fill line to get a true measure and no matter what, I seem to be left with at least 2 ounces of part b.
Gotcha. If the pieces are curing correctly, I wouldn't worry too much. I've had a similar thing happen to me with liquid 2 part silicones, I tend to have some side b leftover. The molds always cure properly, so I don't really worry about it. It is a bit odd though, for sure
Yes, especially when it's a 1:1 ratio and the bottles are the same size lol. I just feel it's a waste. They should sell small bottles of each separately so that you can get more of one or the other so you don't waste as much
Dang, that's a good question. I think I'd get cheap phone cases and try it both ways. Sorry if that didn't help lol, but with this stuff, it's all going to come down to experimenting to see what works. I feel like I'd try inside of the case first to see how I feel about it, and THEN I'd try another case and put everything on the outside
cool :) I have mine as well, I'll be working on a video with it this week. The product is a bit thicker than I thought it would be, so I'm interested in seeing what happens. I was reading the directions on the site and it suggests heating up the resin in a hot water bath, so that should help. What formula did you get? I went with the "liquid art epoxy" and i also got the "liquid art epoxy ultra UV."
@@MarinaSharp They shipped kinda fast. I ended up getting the liquid cast deep pour epoxy and the liquid stone ultra uv epoxy. I ordered the deep pour one by mistake, instead of cancelling the order I just ended up purchasing the liquid stone uv. When I warm up the bottles in a warm bath, is it only when mixed together that the work time gets shorter, or the entire bottles shelf life gets shorter? Not sure if my question makes sense jeje. The deep pour epoxy is gonna have to stay in the box for now, that seems to advanced for me!!
I've also wondered about if the entire bottle's shelf life gets shorter with warming. The pot life definitely does when warming the resin, but yeah, I don't know about overall shelf life. I think it should be okay if the company explicitly instructs you to heat the resin, but when in doubt, just warm the resin one little cup at a time, instead of warming the whole bottle(s). I demo the "one cup at a time" idea in this vid, right after I measure the resin.
You can do whatever you want, I'd just rather not overheat the product. When companies do suggest you heat the resin, the instructions usually say warm and not hot.
I am making some geode type lookin ones with some crushed flowers in rememberance of my boyfriend who passed away. I was wondering about glitter. Can you use any type of glitter or sequins to mix in it or does it specially have to be for residents
It can be any glitter. I'm really sorry for your loss. I'm sure you've already heard that a million times, and the word may even sound a bit "hollow" or meaningless. I think the truth is that there is no good thing to say in these situations, ya know?
Thank you for your informative video! After you popped the casting out of the mold, you mentioned that you sometimes have to use a Dremel tool to smooth the edges. My question is after you've smoothed the edges, do you then have to use more resin or lacquer to make it shiny again? What do exactly you do in this instance? Thanks so much!
Thanks for watching😀 sometimes I'll dip a toothpick in more resin and run it along the sanded sides and let it cure, but I honestly tend to use clear spray paint more. I spray a little puddle of clear spray paint, dip a tooth pick in it, and run along the sides. Or I'll put on a glove and dip my finger into a bit of clear spray paint and dab it on the edges. I use spray paint on resin a lot though, and I don't think that's really a normal thing most people do, I was working with spray paint a lot before I got into working with resin, so I kind of just merged some concepts. I think the best course of action for others would be to just dip a tooth pick in more resin and run along the sanded sides, and let it harden.
