from what i've heard that ceramic doesn't like low grits, anything below 1k. But it does love resin bonded diamond stones. Pretty sure outdoors55 got some lesser ceramic knives to hair whittling.
@@attila5221 I used the 800 side of the spyderco CNN stone when I did my testing trials. I kept the session to only 5 minutes or so. I think getting the edge to hair whittling would take time and patience. Plus I think getting the apex that thin would make the knife more prone to chip out.
@yoannmolard-auclair592 I like both designs. I find myself carrying the LJ more often than my stretch 2s these days. Both feel fantastic in hand for me atleast. Id probably pick the blade shape that appeals more to you. I have cut tested k390 on the stretch 2 and the LJ and it was identical.
@GerstBladeworks kinda depends on what you use your knives for. The HIC has low toughness and the hic doesn't take a keen edge either. Id probably look elsewhere if you plan on beating it up a bit.
@@steeltoez8345 I mostly need it for high edge retention . I strip wires at work all the time and my k390 and K294 does really well but I am looking for something with even higher edge retention. I may just wait and get the Rex-121 sage when it releases
Of all the spydies I own the 15V series has been my ultimate and favorites I'm an edge snob and the edge that came up with these is insane and it just holds it forever with minor strop maintenance on occasion but the one downside if the blade can permanently etch with your thumbprint just from opening it one time with sweaty hands they're extremely sensitive to tarnishing
I have a video about it too, it’s very slept on, the blade shape on those are so versatile . You get the benefits of something like a Warrencliffe with a lower tip but also have belly.. in a world full of fidgeters and guys who buy Knives for pocket jewelry, you are a welcomed sight. I am about to put this steel up against my mule and K294 that’s going to be a fun test
Since you like the Leafjumper I think you might like the Lil Temperance 3 it has a similar handle & blade shape as the Leafjumper except it has a compression lock like the PM2 & super amazing ergos. I have the K390 version though a bit more expensive but worth it IMO.
I liked everything about mine except the compression lock. Had blade play no matter what and there's no relief in the handle for the lockbar to move far enough such that the detent ball falls away from its track. Put simply, it will never fall shut. Mushy detent as well. Beautiful design and concept, executed poorly. Very thick blade stock too.
I'm using 1.5 inch adjustable straps bought from Amazon to secure the shealth to my calf The shealth from Steve Callari fits other fixed blades I own already. So far I'm liking this carry method alot.
Been using and testing mine. Just got some brand new fresh diamond plates, I’ll see if I can sharpen at all. So far I can just shape it to where it cuts but idk if I’ll ever get that skin sinking edge. I think for what it is, it’s cool. I’d be curious what knives they’d use this on. Haven’t carved wood. If I can know I’m not going to snap the blade I’d use it pretty hard
I’m wondering how a 45 degree, 60 degree… 90 degree edge would do… it’s already not gonna slice how think. I was very very excited they released this mule. They release them for the love of it. I REALLY hope they use that rex 76 in something. Which mules do you have? I’m spy 27, T15, rex 76, and ceramic.
@@lindboknifeandtool triple b still has my rex76 mules. I have M398 that im giving to my younger brother for barbecue season. I have cts b70p which is in my mind inferior to spy27 on every level. I have Aeb-l which triple b designed the heat treat for. I picked up k294 and T15 when i bought the HIC mule.
I sharpened mine on low grit, wouldn't recommend it. It just chips the edge and doesn't add any kind of sharpness to it. After that I spent about and hour on a 1000 grit resin bonded diamond stone working all the chips out and them moved on to a 3000 grit diamond stone. Normally on steel knives I would use water but it seems to cut the ceramic faster without water. Haven't really tested since then I've only given it about 2 sharpening so far.
Im paraphrasing a bit, but i think i remember Sal posting a "the factory edges arent great, lets see you do better" type comment on the forum. I sat this one out. I have a couple of the original kitchen knife patterns and couldn't be less interested in them. Still excited to see how it fares in your testing, though!
@@steeltoez8345 I was going to ask also because mine came dull and my K329 came with a nasty burr on thee entire edge now I own a dozen mules and these two are the only ones I've ever gotten with a bad edge on them...
I picked up a CBN webfoot from BHQ when they had them for $30. Prior to that, i had been using the corner of an old diamond plate on my SE k390 endura. I was getting pretty good results with the plate, but its still been a night and day difference.
I use my king neo for my police. Seems to work well. I plan on testing my leafjumper or my stretch in both an 800 grit cbn edge as well as the neo to see how much performance I'm losing.
What on earth is happening there. That seems unbelievable. Its not like having 5g of accuracy on a set of scales is difficult to achieve so something must be wrong here. I'll test my scales when i get home tonight. Im wondering if it's caused by peak value hold sometimes spiking depending on how fast the water flows.
This scale is not the premium version and moves in 5 gram increments. Since water is the same volume and weight both tests should have displayed the same weight. Id even accept a 5 gram difference. If this scale can't read the same volume of water being poured in a glass how accurate can test results actually be?This scale is intended for this type of usage but it fails to repeat the same value.
@@steeltoez8345 the water has momentum due to gravity, this force is adding to the static weight of the water and the scale is has peak hold. It's possible if you poured the water very slowly this would negate the force from the water falling into the glass. I'll test when I'm home from work this evening
"10 thou behind the edge, not exactly a laser beam" is one of the best sentences ever said by a knife RU-vidr. A rare glimmer of hope that the stupid people haven't completely taken over, yet. If I wanna watch a guy shill knife shovelware, chop through a car door, or call a 25 thou bte TRM a laser beam, then YT is a great resource for that. Finding people genuinely knowledgeable about what makes a knife good or bad has become pretty much impossible, though.
Thanks for the compliment. I normally steer away from the knife content here on RU-vid. I feel like I'm watching pez dispenser reviews when I do sit thru 1.
So the index card video was after this? I'm always impressed by how much abuse even the low toughness (S90V, m390) steels can take when I'm testing them, but this is still pretty surprising.
Yes it was. I' don't have any video editing software to put the videos in sequential order. I've posted my index card testing on my IG multiple times but never here.
When testing knife edges i use the index card method. Its my attempt to rule out blade geometry and focus on the apex itself. And its ability to maintain its integrity throughout testing. When dull the apex pushes the card instead of creating a starting cut. Real world use the apex blunts in higher used locations not entirely at once. Goal is to avoid downward pressure and have the starting cut begin closest to the handle. Obviously not perfect but its my attempt to rule out some variables. Hold both card and knife around 45 degrees and just slide it down. Passing the redline means the apex still has enough to continue testing. Not passing the redline means the apex is either done testing or has become a safety concern to its operator. This particular knife is the spyderco M398 mule i was testing today for toughness.
I'm not trying to break the knife just blunt the apex. I was asked to demonstrate how I was testing on ice. I had more videos planned but my wife has been in critical condition since she was hit by a drunk driver. The ice was my substitute for modern obstacles users come across in day to day life. Drywall, woods, plastics, etc. Getting a number based on how many reps the apex survives before failing my index card method gives me my toughness ratings. Now in combination with my other cut testing, scheduled chops on the ice, scheduled touchups after what I believe is an average workload. Cut testing stays within the most ideal situations most users don't have. So my goal is to have 3 tests to evaluate steel. First is to establish overall toughness. To have a controlled cut test to have overall wear resistance. And to run longevity testing to replicate more accurately what happens in more realistic environments. Ice is around 2.0 on the mohs scale so it's not really going to cause any damage. It's ultra affordable and it also gives me variability in score numbers. Highest so far has been 135 and lowest has been 65.
Ive done some intentionally dumb things with my 15v Shaman and been nothing but impressed with the results. I cut through about 75 feet that woven nylon landscaping mat (not the felt stuff, more akin to a tarp) that had been buried under sand for two years and it still sliced printer paper with only a few hangups. That was done with the factory edge that i had been using for almost 8 weeks.
Sometimes when I sharpen near the ricasso, the edge of the stone gets dinged. Does the burr test stlll work with an imperfect stone edge? You use India stone for edge burr detection with diamond plate. Why not use diamond plate edge? The vitrified stone has a radiused edge. My Norton India has a very sharp 90 degree edge, my stone edge work or should I grind the edge smoother first?
The DMT stones don't have the corner I'm looking for. I'm using only the weight of the blade with as little as pressure as possible. I prefer this style of sharpening for folders and moderate fixed blades bcuz the knife never leaves my hand. I own a super vit stones so I can do my style on that However most folks don't have that luxury, so I displayed my style with both. If your going to give my style a try, I would exaggerate a few steps to get an overall feel at first. Create a burr on one side. Use a corner of a stone in the opposite direction to feel for burr across the edge. The wire edge will have some resistance to it. You can pin point with accuracy all down the edge where there is burr and where there is not. If you run the opposite way, or the direction you formed the burr the knife has no resistance to it. Under the lightest pressure it should slide across. You can use sandpaper over a block of wood if necessary. The next step is to flip the burr, but you should have an idea of what it should feel like. If I wanted another stone in my progression I wouldn't remove the burr. I would just go to the next stone and repeat that same process. Now when it comes to burr removal I usually go 3 passes to 1. When I make that single pass it should feel like there's no resistance. However the burr may flip to that side and now I need to adjust passes to remove it. When I double check on the corner I'm looking for no resistance either direction. I'm using as little force as possible. It's only there to identify problem areas not correct them. By this point you should have a very clean apex if both sides feel the same. Go extremely slow bcuz your trying to identify any hang ups. And you can hone on finer stones, strops, or just leave it if your satisfied. I hope that explains it better and clears up some confusion.
