You know that didn’t even occur to me. 🤦🏻‍♂️…but it’s all good. The only repair necessary was on the inside of the house & I’m using plaster for that.

It’s a rebar reinforce solid chunk of cement.

I have no idea what the model of the windows is. I just placed the order with the fellow from the hardware store for the most cost effective windows they could get me.

I am the owner. I have no regrets. If I’d had the time & money to restore the existing windows, I might have. I’d have wanted to replace each individual pane of glass with insulated ones & finding the hardware & replacement sections for windows that had been butchered to install window units would have been difficult, taken time I didn’t have, & ended up being far more expensive. For 17 of these window, including a triple hung it was only about $7500 (in 2020) & the install of all of them, by ourselves, only took a couple of weeks.

I want to say the brand was Atrium but I’m not positive. I just got the cheapest ones the local hardware store could get.

Glad it helped! Our local glass repair guy is the one that recommended replacement. He said the time and money to reglaze and repair the other damage would end up costing far more than the new windows.

New windows are temporary. I have 100yrs old steel windows and would never get rid of them to replace them with windows that will break apart a few yrs later.

That’s not me. Would you mind send a link, I’d love to hear what you’re talking about.

IMO, it depends. If your house is of standard wood construction you need to extensively waterproof. If is of stucco covered cement block, like our home in the video, I believe what we did was more than sufficient. What we did: 1. Use windows and doors "Great Stuff" to close fill large gaps and wait a day. 2. Trimmed, or tucked in any of the foam that had expanded out of the the seams. 3. Caulked over over all of the seams. 4. Thoroughly cleaned the windows and rest of the home exterior. 5. Masked the windows in such a way that there would be paint on the edge window frame covering the caulked seams. 6. Painted ALL of the exterior with at least two coats of premium exterior paint. (Some areas got extra coats.) 7. Carefully de-masked the windows.

Negative, given the 100% cement block construction, I simply used windows and doors Great Stuff and some premium windows and Doors caulk and then applied a couple of coats of Sherwin Williams exterior paint. I am confident in the results.

It’s 100% cement block & stucco, inside & out. There was nothing else there to rot. After the video I sealed them up with windows & doors expanding foam and caulk.

I’m getting ready to take a load bearing wall out. Hopefully have a video before too long.

@@letsbuildsomethingNOW whoa. I looked into replacing a load bearing beam on my porch awning years ago. The building code requirements were so onerous (and contra-indicated!) I decided to let it go. Respect from here.

@@biersquirrel We're in rural Mississippi. Building codes aren't really a thing out here. Home inspections are only done to get a mortgage. I do research codes to find best practises but if I can't be convinced of a reason why it's necessary I'll go with my own opinion. The wall in question is only load bearing on one side, the ceiling joist go the other way on the other side. I've already placed a makeshift beam in the ceiling that is more than enough to get the job done.

Nice. ♥Mississippi. Took a vacation up Hwy 61 in mid-90s. Interested in the beam video. Best regards from Tucson!

@@biersquirrel Ahh, the blues trail. Been meaning to do that myself, one day.

I’d use a 3 1/2” angle grinder with wire wheels. Others might use paint stripper. The latter would be better if you don’t have any to make a huge mess.

^^^This. If you are living in it the house stripper would make less mess but put off strong fumes.

It is window glazing putty. There are quite a few videos showing how to reglaze windows.

No, it hasn’t been a problem. These windows are the cheapest ones I could get & the tolerances aren’t super tight. It might be a problem with higher quality window which would likely have tighter tolerances.

@@letsbuildsomethingNOW Thanks I just picked up a couple at Lowes and will get started soon !

I get it. I really do. Unfortunately I didn’t. The only reason I recorded what I did was because I didn’t find any videos of someone doing what I needed to do. I didn’t video the rest because there are tons of videos of that part of the process.

I didn’t need many shims, I measured them on the tight side.

Just shoot it down a little tighter being careful not to break the window frame.

Yes, but first I added “Windows & Doors Great Stuff” (Expanding Foam) in the gaps large enough to take it & then caulked it. The “windows & doors” is a version that doesn’t expand as much so as not to put too much pressure causing function issues.

It’s all about cost. I’ve talked to people about new houses they’re building & the cost to build a single room like our house is built is ridiculous.

@@letsbuildsomethingNOW wow! I didn''t know that. I always thought that cement blocks weren't used because of building regulations.

It’s not in the videos but I did use windows & doors great stuff in a few places & caulk.

I used windows & doors great stuff in the window gaps & stucco repair mix for the exposed portions. I’m still working on it. I’ll try & get video of some of the stucco repair but I’m not expert & there are other videos on RU-vid of people that are far better at it than I will ever be.

@@letsbuildsomethingNOW Thanks, I figured that would be the best thing. My old windows look just like yours and I also have stucco covered block from the 50's. You are the only person on youtube that shows how to remove them quickly and easily. Very helpful. I am going to pick up a hammer drill at harbor freight this week. I've got 20 windows to replace here in sunny central Florida😂

In recent years I've come to look on RU-vid to see how to do things I haven't done before. When I couldn't find a video of this I figured I'd make one to help the next guy out. I hope it does.

A couple of the 17 windows were unique. For those I measured the opening at the outside & subtracted half an inch from each dimension. For the windows which I had several of the same size (true of the ones in these videos) I measured all of them & then went with the smallest measurement. The reason for the variability is that the stucco was done by hand (as all stucco is) & made the openings all slightly different. Of course, I could have made unique measurements for each window but I didn’t want to have to sort that out when the windows came in. That’s why you see me shaving some material off while installing them. There were others (not in video) that needed shims to hold them in place.

@@letsbuildsomethingNOW also how heavy were the big ones? cuz some of mine are wide like 90" and 70", do they deliver to ur house? or u pick up??

@@Eastbaypisces If you go to my channel page you'll see a triple hung that was 90" wide. It was the heaviest but my wife and i handled it just fine. It was the only one that I absolutely could not have done alone. The hardware store where we placed the order delivered the windows.

I really appreciate that. The whole reason I made the videos is that I didn’t find anything quite like what I was dealing with on RU-vid. I talk more about how I arrived at this method in the other videos. The bottom line is at first I tried using a portable band saw & then a grinder with cutoff disc but they just weren’t the right tools for the job.

@@letsbuildsomethingNOW another was saying i just gotta get the window out of the channel, but i thought i could do it like u did it, which way u suggest? he said its called retro fit...?

@@Eastbaypisces The method I used would only apply to a house built like this one. I jabber on about the technique I arrived at in the other two videos. The walls are cement block all of the way through. A lot of houses have the similar appearance but are wood framed on the inside. In that case I'd go with a more typical instal.

The brand is “Atrium”. All I did was take the measurements I made to the local hardware store (Alexander’s Hardware in Bay Springs, MS) & order the cheapest windows they could get me. The quality is not top notch but seems better than I might have expected given their price.

@@letsbuildsomethingNOW Thanks ! I also have to look at the price carefully since I have 20 windows to replace and I am on a budget !

What kind of screws did you use to secure the windows?

@@wanderingdrifter3163 he said he was using tapcon screws in the other video, but I was also curious about the size..

Does the head of the tapcon matter? I know tapcons come in different heads

Assisting? He’s the boss.

If the house isn’t obviously cement block, I’d say it’s almost surely standard wood frame construction. That being the case, while the windows may be the same, the construction matters more than the type of windows you are replacing when replacing the windows. I’d probably go to a window in the backside of the home and pry around it on the inside with a pry bar to confirm they are framed out with wood which is highly likely. Search for videos about replacing windows in a 1950’s home. A house that old may have some rotted wood that’ll need replacing. If it were me I’d replace it with treated stuff to avoid the same problem in the future. As for installing windows in a wood framed home my experience is limited to new construction, which is quite different from a replacement. Given the state of the supply chain I’d at least check & see if there are ready made windows close enough in size (the same size or slightly smaller than your openings). Our windows took over six months to come in when the old lead time was 8-10 weeks & we were quoted 10-12 weeks at the time of ordering.

Also, whatever you do: DO NOT REMOVE ANY WINDOWS UNTIL YOU HAVE REPLACEMENTS ON HAND.

@@letsbuildsomethingNOW thank you so much! Noted! We are looking at like-for-like steel (some beautiful new stuff out there if you can justify the $$) but like you say the lead times are coming in at 16-20 weeks. Nuts!

We looked at metal famed and loved some of the available options but the price was far more than we could afford. We weren’t even going to replace the windows but found that the vinyl windows were surprisingly affordable. Good luck to you! The remodeling/renovating game can be quite the headache.

@@letsbuildsomethingNOW thank you and yes, I agree, it's an expensive headache that we are tepidly excited to begin out of necessity due to the cost of labor in our area! Take care.

Thank you for the kind words. I’m actually pretty self conscious about my own voice, but I have thought about doing a podcast. The trouble I have with podcast, or RU-vid videos, for me is having something new to contribute or add. I don’t feel I have much unique to add. Dave Smith and Tom Woods cover my thinking on politics. Jack Spirko covers my thinking on prepping. There are tons of great videos on most home improvement or remodeling that I’m working on. I videoed the windows because I couldn’t find anything quite like it. I have some videos to process that are fairly unique because of our house’s unusual construction. The other reason not to do more videos, or a podcast for that matter, is there already aren’t enough hours in a day to get all done I’m trying to do.

I hope the videos help. I tried several methods on the early windows but settled on this method by the time I got around to these. I made a video of it because I didn’t find anything quite like it when searching RU-vid. Much of the other work I’ve been doing I’ve found good videos & didn’t want to replicate them. I will be videoing how I am cutting grooves into the walls to run my wiring when I get to that point. If you’re looking into that search “wall chaser” it’s an amazing machine that seems to be largely unknown in the US. Mine is a Tableau: Wall Line Cutter Wire Slotting Marble Concrete Cutting Machine - Dustproof And Infrared Sighting - AC 110V www.amazon.com/dp/B07WWSM25N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZZCAX9VJERVZHYWQ0QWC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

@@letsbuildsomethingNOW yeah this method seems pretty efficient.

@@letsbuildsomethingNOW what Dewalt tool was that and what was the name of that chipper bit for the concrete?

@@Eastbaypisces The SDS-Plus (small) rotary hammer drill: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YDZI9BA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 The SDS-Max (large) rotary hammer drill: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NB018XZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The chisels were just SDS-Plus or SDS-Max from Harbor Freight.

@@letsbuildsomethingNOW thx

The windows in these videos are the best of the lot because they have been under a carport that was added 40+ years ago. The others were in much worse shape. Only a very small number of them had functioning opening mechanisms. I spent a great deal of time trying to identify a source for replacements mechanisms for them. Also, several (one in almost every room) of the windows had large sections cut out of them to accommodate window unit ACs that have been there since the 70s or 80s. Those would have had to have been replaced regardless of my resources and matching the old windows would have been next to impossible. Because we are trying to do this on a modest budget, I did originally intend to replace the individual panes and re-glaze the old windows. I talked to my local glass guy about it. He gave me a ballpark estimate on what he'd charge and suggested the vinyl windows, that he does NOT sell. Replacing the windows, including the one replaced with a door, came in under $8000 and we were able to do them ourselves in just a couple of weeks. As for structural integrity this house is more solid than most safe rooms. All of the walls, interior and exterior, are stucco covered cement (not cinder) blocks that extends far into the ground. The cement floors are poured within these walls. Above and below the windows is 12-18 inches of solid rebar reinforced cement. So, replacing these windows has not affected the structural integrity of the house. Besides, even if I could have afforded to rehab them into like new condition they'd never have been as energy efficient as the new windows.

100% agree! check out the work they are doing at Seekircher. Everything you need to know about why restore instead of replace is there.

Also the old windows don’t have screens and bugs get in the house and they are single pained with metal frames and you get ice all over the windows in the winter and drafts and heat in the summer.

You pay someone to go and properly restore those windows then outfit them with insulated glass units per lite it will cost you more to do one window than to replace with modern vinyl windows if done properly. It’s not even close. If you’re talking about historical buildings in the downtown area of a major city then they might opt for restoration but outside of that it is always more cot effective and energy efficient to go the replacement route.