hi could you help me configure klipper, I'm switching from an anet a8 plus board to mks skipr and I don't know how to configure klipper so that everything fits without problems
I really enjoy watching your videos I just downloaded the watch winder this video shows, I tried the link for the code but keeps showing an error directory not working, do you somehow have the clean code I could download and try again?
I have the Pro which I thought was just an S with a laser attachment but apparently it also includes a filament sensor, X and y tmc2208 drivers (I don’t know why they didn’t just do all 5), and my extruder is clear instead of black. I think it’s the same type though… it’s a dual gear extruder. I’m definitely going to upgrade the other 3 stepper drivers and replace whatever fan sounds like it’s dying inside the machine (probably the stepper driver fan). The machine itself is super sturdy. I hate that Anycubic doesn’t easily upgrade but I plan to put Marlin on it later once I get the hardware working right.
Gravity and the build plate weight already takes care of backlash, its only usefull on horizontal axis. Its completely unnecessary on Z if it moves nice and freely.
Its a 32 bit board with an STM32F103RET6. it usesTCM2208 for bed and extruder, it uses TCM2160's for the X and Y Bought it Amazon last month for 250,- works flawless if you know how they WORK...
That tape is called glass tape or glass reenforced tape depending on the marketing of the company that made it. It's layers of thicker plastic than normal sandwiching twisted threads of fiberglass and generally has a stringer adhesive than typical scotch tape. It's pretty uncommon to see it used in packaging these days. When I was a kid and you said "packing tape" what you were talking about was that stuff they had holding the end of the filament but 3" wide. Product being shipped to you never came to you with the tape having let go or having broken during handling.
Playing devil's advocate here, I think SunLu are just so proud of their filament and was a bit too eager to get people to review it. "Knowing" we would love it.
Great review I just sent an Egloo Pro 3 back after having nothing but problems with it I am looking for a workhorse printer this one looks like it can do the job.
Hey, i have the same machine and id like to try out the tower, i wonder what settings you used, did you change something up in wiibuilder besides temps?
Raising the layer height doesn't squish more. It raises the nozzle further from the bed. At .2 height a 150% first layer height will set the nozzle .3mm from the bed and increase flow proportionately. If you want more squish you need to lower the nozzle closer to the bed. That can't be done by changing the first layer height because if you lower the value here the amount of material decreases also.
I don't think I like their slicer, but I've only had it for a few days. I updated to 1.1.1, and I don't know if I should download the previous versions. I'm so used to using Cura because it's easy.
I am guessing that ASA prints very similar to ABS. This last Christmas I got me and my boys a Bambu P1S - our first printer. My first ASA print failed because a corner lifted. No failures since as I cranked the bed temp to 100°C and pre-heat the printer for maybe 30min. My first ASA print was an RC boat hull for Sripol's 30" long tug boat. Big, thick sections. I've also done well with LW-PLA and a little soft TPU for plane tires. Anyway, Bambu made printing ASA easy. That said, I bought a Qidi X-Smart for my boy for $285, direct from Qidi. That's nice cause they don't charge sales tax. I'll have to set up the X-Smart this weekend and I expect it to perform well.
Came across yr awesome video. Still a Good job since u done it 3yrs ago . I m still using the classic Acrylic Anet A8 with SKR1.4 & TFT35 touch screen 👍and TMC2209 on xy. Works n prints very well silently . Did think of enlarging the bed maybe print some parts before I start or install klipper first .Thanks for sharing ❤
guy we been struggling with the calibration of the Z axis for more than a year and you just gave us the solution (for those interested, it was the unscrewing of the little black rings above the Z axis screws) you're the best bro thank you
Buenas noches, estás haciendo un trabajo fenomenal y estoy montando mi legacy gracias a toda la información y tus videos de youtube, pero tengo un problema con la cama y es que no tengo los archivos para adaptar mi cama de 223cm a la impresora, serías tan amable de pasarme la modificación del soporte de la cama para instalarla en mi máquina? gracias de ante mano y me repito, un trabajo exelente con tus videos
I've never owned or used a Nova3D printer so I have no opinion on its performance, however their water washable resin is bad. I purchased 4 bottles of Nova3D resin 500g bottles through Amazon and the resin they sent me was not only expired (all 4 bottles expired Sept 2023) I had used two bottles to print 1 single 13" model. The resin was no thicker than water in my opinion, and the model I was printing (slightly over 500ml in resin volume) cost me 2 complete 500g bottles to print and then some. Leaving water remain in the vat. I had no failures with this model. I normally use creality resin 1000g bottles and with that I can print 3x models of roughly the same size as the one I printed with extra resin left over. The only reason I used the expired bottles instead of sending all four back was to see if they would print at all and if so how much would print. I've sent the remaining two bottles back. Any company pushing expired resin on customers is bad business. And the expiration date is on the top side of the bottles label so it's not like they couldn't see it wasn't expired. End of life bottles (30 days before expiration date) bottles are usually what I buy because they are cheap and I print immediately on the various printers I have. The resin i purchased was water washable resin.
Call it HEVRON:) Hypercube Evolution Voron.. I wonder why your hypercube is so wobbly and with small 2020 profiles. Was the original not with bigger proifles? Something like 3030 or 4040? Funfact: Bambu Lab uses the Hypercube design under the hood for their big machines...
I've had the TINA2 basic for a week. It's great and it's my first introduction to 3D printing. Regarding octoprint, I installed octopi OS on a spare raspberry pi, and initially I couldn't get it to connect, until someone pointed out that the USB port uses a custom baud rate of 1000000. I had nearly given up, but you click "serial connection" in the octoprint UI and enter 1000000 in the "custom baud rate" field and save. Then select this as the printer baud rate and bingo it connected!
They have the Qidi camera for the x smart 3,.x plus 3, x max 3 on Amazon. They have it in stock at Amazon's warehouse at the moment of writing this comment. It's only $40 on Amazon and gets delivered next day
I got one as a Christmas present and there is filament stuck in the nozzle. I've tried most of the suggested methods to get the filament out but am a little leery to take it apart. Any chance for a video on how to take it apart to change the nozzle?
