Hey Mason, not sure how this showed up in my feed today, some 5 years after release! You’re definitely right about Wade though. Of course there’s countless solid folk in this community including Pete, Dale and certainly yourself. Busy, hard working people who still manage to find the time to put others first. Bless’ns, Tedd
Your a better man than me. My anxiety just watching this has went up big time! I love working on cars and wrenching, it's therapeutic. But one broken / stripped bolt can cost so much time and money it's unreal. Great work!
Bought a 250 socket set at Lowe’s from Kobalt and didn’t realize 90% of them were 12 point sockets, looks like I’m getting this tekton kit In 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2. Thank you for the review
Afternoon. Was wondering if I could pick your brain about a transmission problem in a 1991 a35bm Volvo haul truck. You came recommended from Mike, dirt perfect
A CASE 1537 uniloader weights 5,000 pounds or two and a half tons! The measurement is 3" at the control stick/handles, 3inches movement forward and reverse once adjusted as this man tells everyone. The machine MUST have all wheels off the ground or the machine could kill you, easily. No short cuts should be attempted. That's straight from the repair manual folks.
I really love ours. We've a 8" stainless chimney with 8" black single wall in the house. Keeps a fire overnight and easily heats our home through the worst of winter.
I gotta CALL out BULLSHIT ON THAT. Your not putting a magnetic charge into the part you’re testing. The magnetic tester your using to check for cracks is the only thing that stays magnetized NOT THE PART YOUR TESTING. I WAS A NDT TECHNICIAN AND WENT TO SCHOOL FOR THAT FOR 3-yrs so I know
You have better go back to school. Magnaflux is magnetic particle inspection. At which the part is placed in a solution and magnetized by either clamp or coils. At which after inspection the process must be reversed to remove magnetized properties. If you call bullshit, know your shit.
I have that same pump in my truck and it has an e7 engine. I put the pump in time the same as you do. But the signal on my board does not disappear. It keeps giving the flashing code 3-3, it will be that I have to change the sensor that is it in the bomb? how to know if the sensor is damaged?
Check wiring at main control module, fuel injection control module, and Bulkhead. Check pins at 3 and 4 on pump for + and-. Check resistance between 3 and 4, should be between 800 and 1400 ohms
Everyone looking for the part number. Please contact Cummins with your engine serial number and ask for fuel damper resealing kits for both dampers on the fuel control module. Due to differences in serial numbers I do not give out the part number. Possibility of Cummins using different numbers happens all the time.
Is there a water pump strainer in the isx or x15. Like there is in the Paccar motor??? My temperature is always running 200° now. Never did that before. I've aired out and rinsed out my radiator, condenser etc. I've replaced it with new coolant and replaced the thermostat. No leaks, I'm scratching me head trying to figure this out
@@mlhrepairsllc6942 I managed to get the pump pulley bolt off with a 90 degree, stubby air impact and was struggling to get the pulley off when I decided to check the manual. It appears the motor has to be pulled as the cast belt housing connecting the motor to the pump has to be removed to get to the seal. As an engineer this this such a bad design to have to remove the engine/pump just to replace a seal. I guess my next issue will hope the pump seal leak is only due to a bad seal only and not something more expensive. The seal just starting leaking with no other noticeable pump issue other then the power seemed to drop due to lose of fluid. To pull the motor it looks like you left the tracks on? Manual states to remove tracks? Was getting to the front 2 pump mount bolts a big issue? Is it worth buying plugs/caps to stop fluid leaking everywhere? No idea what size the motor hoses would be? Did you make a special lift bracket attached to the top of the motor?
@@jason-things_to_do yes I left the tracks in place. The inside engine mounts were not fun. If I remember correctly, they are actually angled with nuts on the bottom of the mount bracket. Plugs and caps are going to be needed due to the constant drip of fluids. I didn't make any special mount for removing the engine. I believe I attached a chain on the fuel pump side, high on the engine. Slid engine back and attached a 3rd lifting chain to the pump to suspend it level
Been looking for a decent 3/4 gun for a while now, our shop gun is a composite Aircat, totally wore out. I too like the heavier aluminum impacts, and I think I'll give the 1777 a shot. Thank you for the review sir
If the end bushing are held in with the slugs. It takes half a day to air hammer them out to even pull the beam out from the truck. We have a 1936 150 ton press and we make that thing grown. We she gives it up everyone in the shop hears the boom.
