@@Patman03sprcrw my truck has random stumbles and rough idle intermittently, sometimes it will die but no check engine light. I’m tempted to replace vct solenoids
I have not had any issues. This particular LiPo battery has internal regulator/chip inside the battery. I have several videos on this jump box, feel free to check the other ones out too
I just got a quote from my Local ford dealer of $5000 to do this. $2200 in parts and $2300 in labor, plus some other bogus charges and tax. My truck is running like total crap now. Is this all there is to it? I can buy Fords parts for about $200 and do it in about a half day myself ????
They might have quoted the camshaft actuators too for that kind of price, you're almost in reman engine territory at 5k lol And yes this job is that easy if this is all you need to do.
@@Patman03sprcrw ...so, my truck has 126k miles on it. I have always used full synthetic oil in it and always replaced it at 5K miles. I really find it hard to believe that the chain and tensioner etc is worn out. I am just gonna replace the VCT's and hope for the best. What do you think?
@@Patman03sprcrw was on occasional stumble or misfire, and or stall while idling. Now rough running, some loss of power at takeoff, bucking when you are at cruise speed down the road, still will stall when stopped occasionally.
I'm going to replace the lead frame in my 2015 F150 this weekend. How did you hold the thermostat valve in place? BTW this is a great update... just what I needed!
I am using factory donor harnesses out of the 2015 truck, not a control pack. Hopefully that helps answer your question. Planning to attend the FTC show coming up the following weekend if you are in North Texas and would prefer to talk in person and see the truck
Geez my check engine light came on and it was making a racheting sound in the engine and it would lose a bout 30% power whilst making that noise and also it would sometimes gulp for air between shifts I had two drive it like that for two weeks before I got it in the shop and they said I had low oil and something about a bad sensor. So anyway they put in oil and said they fixed some sensor and off I went. Then after another oil change about 4000 miles it's happening again and bam my check engine light pops on. This time I go get a quart of oil put it in and bang problem solved but why doesn't my oil light come on and even after putting a quart and a half in I see nothing on the dipstick however after putting in the quart of oil my engine never sounder so smooth even the tick that F150s have at idle is gone. But I'm wondering how much damage have I done to my engine and again where the heck is the oil warning light
Nice work on the OBS, I have a '93 bronco with a gen2 6r80 4x4, been trying to get it right for the last 3 years since the swap. Im in the dfw area and would like to get in touch if possible for help in accurately diagnosing the root cause of some of my problems, if your available.
@@Patman03sprcrwjust got it back from tuning and I got harsh shifting on 3rd and 4th. Tuner also advised my wiring quality in my mars harness from the pedal and throttle position sensor has a short and that's causing my the truck to into limp mode. I intend to start with going through the wiring myself but the harsh shifts I'm not certain If it's due to the lead frame or bad solenoids, is there a way to diagnose the transmission. I live in the coppell area, don't know where your located and if you might be game for taking it for a test drive.
So not just a screwdriver and pop in a new switch as another video. Plus it said maybe need dealer reprogram a key. I don't think so as copies always worked.
Will need to reprogram if you have a new chip key. But if you have 97 or 98 you don't have PATS, so it would be a standard key. The ignition lock portion in the video should still apply tho
I did new TC and full drain on it, so it took over 12qts to get up onto the dipstick. maybe a little more, I'll have to get back to you on the total count
I have a 2004 f150 lariat. I unplugged the fuse the for the radio because the radio drains the battery and I also recently unplugged the fuse for the factory subwoofer because someone snipped the wires off it and stole it a long time ago, but if I replace the radio and put the fuse back in for the radio will it still drain the battery? If you read please reach out to me thank you!
I had to go the other way. I went from the threaded posts in the original units battery, to a new battery with the spade terminals. The problem is theres limited room to smoosh those cables around when going from one connector to another. You can probably force it but be careful bending the jumper cable terminal or it will break easily. And I had to purchase two small bolts when putting in the new one. Also I found its easier to prop the battery upright when connecting and disconnecting the terminals. Then gently set it back in once connected. Mine did not have double sided tape, just foam cushion pads.
My 2016 F150 5.0 is making a valve knock at slow acceleration on low RPMs, and then it goes away. Fast acceleration doesn't make any knocking or noise. Also, at idle, it has the typical piston slack. These issues don't always duplicate. Do you believe replacing the solenoids will fix it? PS: No fail codes found.
You could technically run the engine and use the transmission to pump the fluid out, but you risk running the transmission dry because refilling it at the rate its pumping out
Thanks for your awesome video however, after replacing my sparkplugs three error messages came on, "check engine reduced engine power", "traction control turned off", and AWD system malfunction 2WD mode engaged", what would be the cause of this? I rechecked all the connectors, took everything off again and reconnected it....
You are distracting looking to the right and not directly in the camera. So how did the change over work? You never showed us anything after you converted to LIPO... bummer!
Thanks for your added tips! How you showed the difference in head size between the valve body mounting bolts and the ones holding the valve body together was really helpful.
Thank you for posting this video. There's something I don't understand about the newer Lexus spark plugs. In my 2013 Rx350 the Iridium plugs last for 120k miles. Now I have a 2022 RX 450hand there only good for around 60k or so. how come they don't last as long as the older ones? I'm asummikng that you're a Master Tech.
My guess would be pushing the cam timing much further, and running the engine even leaner. Just speculations tho, don't know that 100% tho. Yes I was Master Lexus certified
Pleasure/weekend truck. The brakes are a tiny bit softer than the OEM ones, especially when cold. But not dangerous. Ride quality is excellent with the weight reduction of unsprung mass
Do you happen to have a PDF you could share that has the torque ratings and sealant that should be used. Steps to be followed. I’m about to tackle this job.
Hey nice tutorial These JNC660 jump packs new are already defective. I’ve rebuilt all the shops with updated HD batteries along with the chargers. Old chargers are very low voltage and seem to breakdown. Original battery and chargers are garbage.
I have the 2012 f150, mileage 220,000km, never changed spark plugs, the garage guy took one out and said the spark plug is still good to use, unbelievable.
