Hello, my name is Paul Danner (aka ScannerDanner). LET ME HELP YOU FIX YOUR CAR AND MAKE SOME EXTRA MONEY! With the free videos I am providing here, combined with my book and on-line classes on ScannerDanner Premium, I'm providing life changing material. I have working mechanics telling me they've quadrupled their income! I have DIYer's fixing their own cars and now even fixing other people's cars for additional income. ScannerDanner Premium is a paid subscription channel which offers you the opportunity to be part of my Engine Performance class at Rosedale Technical College. SD Premium videos consist of page-by-page class lectures from my book, as well as exclusive case studies. There is a 14 day free trial period so you’ll have plenty of time to check out the material and decide if it is right for you. This is also a good place to start if you are interested in purchasing my book, as I will be teaching through it page for page. Visit my website www.scannerdanner.com to learn more.
Can you still use the scanner if the free subscription expires? Or fo you have to continue paying 100 dollars every year? Oh, and is it possible SD to view things like fuel trim? Eagerly awaiting an answer, thanks so much for your videos.
I considering you my teacher already .. Respect your knowledge Sir.. and this is for your Son.. please tell him ... im really love that Z.. barely find a good one now.. its had alot memories on me with that Z..❤️
Agree 💯 with the video! About the title, I would argue that the test lights help with speed, if I put a test light in place of the load Then in one shot I tested the power and ground. Not that you can't test it accurately with a meter, just helps with speed. As with most things, there is more than one way to do so correctly.
Look at the horns with the snail facing up. Rather than hi and low note, one of them scrolls left one scrolls right. I call them left turn and right turn horns. That way u don't install then find out they are wrong. If u go oem get horns for 15 and up. U get both horns and a bracket for less than the cost of one horn
as you suggested, there is always a possibility, for if it can go wrong it will go wrong. but i do not see the neccessity of a high horse rant for checking thew ground side even if there is an open in a coil or whatever. what if the circuit is grounded inside the computer, checking the integrity of the ground side eliminates that from having to diagnose any further. it never hurts to satisfy ones instincts or curiosity when diagnosing, because this is what drives good diagnosticians. even if it appears moot in this situation it is an important step in the algorithm for diagnosing problems. thanks Dan
Fantastic tutorial ! You have shown us a golden key 🔑 to fast reliable diagnostic work . Additionally (as any great teacher) you bring us along the journey by challenging us to lay hold of that DISTINCTION in data gathering phase . The final analysis/answer about the load circuitry being open can be done with absolute proof by your method. I’m very appreciative of how dedicated you are to give us the straight talk about the process / industry. 👊🏼 🔥 🔑 💡
Every system is different. On this particular one I believe it was no more than a 5 psi drop in an hour? I could be wrong on that. It won't hold indefinitely. If you left a gauge on it overnight, it would be 0 in the morning
It isn’t that ohmmeters suck. It is that cheap ohmmeters suck as they simply can’t measure resistance with sufficient resolution. With an accurate and high resolution ohmmeter, a resistance measurement is just as good as measuring voltage drop under load, unless you are loading the circuit so heavily that it gets hot which then changes the resistance. Ohm’s law is ohms law and if you have voltage drop under load then you have resistance in the circuit … period. The question is whether you have an instrument that can measure it. Most cheap meters measure voltage with much higher resolution than resistance and that is what you are seeing.
the type of ohmmeter you are talking about is not used in the 12v DC field as you're talking about very high voltage and amperage that that type of ohmmeter will put on a circuit to be able to measure that resistance
This is an open output solenoid, electric motor, light bulb, or even an input sensor circuit conversation. Your question is what again? Can you rephrase it?
I wouldn't argue that. You'd also want to load the power side too. But a 200 ma test light is enough in most circumstances. The main point was in making the call on the load itself. The additional wiring tests aren't needed to make that call
Sometimes the average Joe Schmoe will indeed pay for diag on an empty fuel tank. “Customer states, crank no start” Added fuel to empty tank. Engine starts 1.5 hour x $150/hr shop rate
Two or more problems on same circuit can happen. Because someone try to repair before you. It is my experience with maintenance in industry.. But it is easy fix when i use metode like yours, test light..
The main point was in making the call on the load itself. The additional wiring tests aren't needed to make that call. But I agree, there are circumstance where you can have multiple issues
Not on a coil but let's say we have a electric motor technically you could have a badly designed circuit that was drawing to many amps and melted a lead inside the motor and melted the ground wire at the same time. BUT you would more than likely see the damage.
Yes! And... a video in real time on a difficult to access ECU ( e.g.Dodge Promaster/ Ford Transit 350)...for a problem under the intake...(cams, coils)
Look for rust dust around compressor clutch as an early sign of failure. Also, grab the AC clutch center WITH ENGINE OFF and try to rotate. Center should rotate smoothly with slight drag. In some cases, clutch can be disassembled and some shims removed if clutch has wear causing it to not engage properly.
I made a bunch of Testing Lights when I was a Bench Tech, to test Functionality in Real-time After Engineering/Designing and Building all the Electrical Controls they were Tested in Full Operation On the Output Terminal Blocks I used Test Lights to Light Up when the Circuit gets Energized "It is a Visual check of Power Flow and Timing" We used relays & Cam Timers, each output is timed for so long off & so long on "I Got Paid to have this much Fun" lol
Good points, as usual, Paul. Most of us watch both you and Eric O, and I have a lot to learn from both. One of the compelling things about Eric's workflow is how quick and simple it is. For a fuel pump, he'll use a 4A test light at the fuel pump connector, with one side attached to the ground of the connector and the other attached to power at the connector. If a 4A test light glows bright, he has instantly load tested both the ground and the power side of the circuit, and he's done within a minute. It's hard to be faster and more comprehensive than that. He doesn't need to make excuses for why he doesn't need to load test the wiring, because it's already done. He doesn't even need to do voltage checks at the pump so it's no extra effort or time. You're right, if you measure a static 12V on one side and 0 volts on the other while loading the circuit, the pump has to be open. That takes just as long, and maybe you'll add a test light at some point of that algorithm, too. Not faster, especially if the tests point to a wiring problem. What if you get 10 volts? The attractive thing about loading the circuit with the current it normally takes is not only speedy work flow but also the reduction in false negatives and false positives. Some corroded connections may conduct well with low current flow but do badly when current heats up a tenuous corroded connection. That's the thing I didn't like about the LoadPro. We assumed a voltage drop of less than a volt was probably OK, but we were testing with much lower current than the device may normally use.
I kinda disagree with this: I would take the old pump and show them that it doesn't work and that it's open... And then I would let them know that there's a SECOND issue with the wire, and charge another fee for that diag.. I might do a little preliminary check or two and see if it's obvious-- but if it wasn't, I'd have to charge for another diag; Especially if it's on a modern car that could have a long trail of connectors and modules just to get to through that pump circuit... (Granted, I very likely would have told them all this up front, before they paid for the pump.. because I'm one of the guys that would have also checked the ground anyway. ;) .. If I'm calling a module or pump, etc.. I like to check EVERYTHING -- twice even. Leave no stone unturned. So I would have found this (fairy tale) 2nd open on the ground and set those expectations early-- that way they could choose to go forward and buy a new pump + more diag -- or just scarp the whole thing, since it's going to take more diag money.
No one will believe you in a shop environment that you now have a wiring problem after changing the pump. That was my point. But I understand your argument too
@@ScannerDanner Right. I understood what you meant-- especially if you had to break the news about the wire issue AFTER the pump was ordered and installed.. That would be a hard sell for sure at that point. :)... But again, just throw 12v onto the old pump and show that it doesn't work ............. - Maybe the bad wire was the initial problem, and then the car sat for 5 years and the bad fuel destroyed the pump: Just saying, it's not impossible...... I wouldn't want to fix the wire for free: that was my point. it could be a rabbit hole that turns into an hour of work. Cheers.
I would really like to see some demos and explanations on using your TopDon scan tools. I have one and would like to learn more on its use. I have the ArtiDiag600S and love it!
