1967 Wolseley 6/110 this is the blog of my recommission of this wolseley classic from 1967 Austin A35 A series engine rebuild, this is a hobby. blog is for amateur builders and a guide to how I build up these engines. I am based in scunthorpe, oryxdriver@gmail.com I have also started to convert a micro camper a Fiat Doblo 2010 1.9jtd.
Definitely take your time with that section. There’s quite a lot going on in such a small area. I found this part to be quite tricky when I did mine. Good work 👍🏻
I will be doing something around the rear lights but not sure what yet, there is a kit of sorts to fix that issue, however I may try and fabricate something. Later.
Great analysis David. Just an aside...as it's a sports car I'm guessing one of the former owners was a boy racer and enjoyed dropping it back to first gear rounding corners thinking he was Juan Fangio. Unfortunately, straight cut non synchro gears don't like that treatment. Similarly throwing the car into reverse while it's still moving forward does wonders for both reverse gear and it's idler. It's a pity about havng to throw the whole cluster gear out due to one element (the damaged straight cut first gear) being integral to the part. You're definitely the go to guy for rebuilding these transmissions. 😎👍
From someone with you're vast knowledge base I am delighted you find my videos informative. I have followed your forum posts on the various cars you work on, especially the rover P5 especially the engineering solutions. David
Thanks David, great to see what was wrong with the old gearbox. That’s a proper hole in the casing. Your expertise and high quality workmanship are invaluable. Not many people around who understand these like you do!
Thanks you David, shocked to see how bad the front main bearing was. So pleased to find out what the noise was. I’m looking forward to getting the new gear box you supplied into the MG, thanks for everything 👍
Hello, I would like to ask for your opinion: I tried this test on 452 clutch actuator and when i connect 12V to the pins, it extend, when i replace the battery polarity, it will retract but when i disconnect the battery, it will extend again itself (without voltage). Is this wrong? And also only after few tests, its very very hot (you cant hold your hand on the motor housing). Thanks for your help,
The unit should not get hot, unless repeated extensions, you could try and grease inside the unit, they are prone to failure. The test only confirms if the unit is working IE extending and retracting. The unit will heat up if the mechanism is starting to seize.
@@davidbosworth.3395 @evilutionltd Thanks, i bought new Sasch actuator and tried to relearn drag point and clutch pulsing and it works, however im still not able to finish Clutch disengage/engage point calibration, i have still error in my diagnostic APP. I would like to ask - its normal that actuator make small movement (maybe 3mm) every 3 seconds on the Neutral with Engine started? When ignition ON, engine OFF, actuator is not moving but with engine ON, actuator moves few milimeters (3mm to the clutch, and back from clutch). It looks like its some control signal for transmission system? Or its issue because im not able to finish clutch engage/disengage calibration via diagnostic? I ordered new clutch actuator connector with cable harness so i will try to resolder it, maybe it will help. Thanks!
Thank you Mr Bosworth for your very informative video. We've got a 2011 Autotrail Scout, had it since 2016 and covered over 40,000 miles. Had the engine oil and filter changed every year but then it occurred to me that I hadn't changed the gearbox oil. Thanks for your help, it's much appreciated. 👍👏☺️
This used to be common knowledge but half the young lads now don't know what a distributor is. I have a wooden file handle with a bolt in it for this job.
I got myself a 77 Midget 1500 back in december and am on a similar voyage of discovery. Finding the videos quite helpful. Yours looks in a better condition so far
Really cannot wait to watch your progress week by week and month by month. Hopefully you should have all these items done before winter, Lets look at more as there is certainly more to come, cheers from a real car nut.
Maybe leave the bumper raised pressings in place just in case you decide to refit the bumper. You could always fabricate two stainless steel trim pieces that utilise the original holes.
Good idea TK , both rubber bumpers were in bad condition so very unlikely I would refit them in future, still trying to find some info regarding hammering the raised parts down.
David, I am very much enjoying your videos! I wish I had seen them and known about you 20 years ago when I had to sort out my gearbox for a Triumph Vitesse mk2. I don't have a classic car at the moment but I am expanding my knowledge. You are a great teacher. Many thanks for posting these videos. ❤👍🙂
Thanks Dabiv, great video! pls can you help me sending the part number for the kit. I would like to buy it by ebay for my Riley 1,5l 1947. Regards from Argentina
Hi luis, the part is not listed just now but I have looked in their eBay shop and they still do the seals here is the link to the seller, hope it helps, David www.ebay.co.uk/str/danburyhydraulics?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=9HoR-2nsQ9m&sssrc=3418065&ssuid=35hFYtkWRj2&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Thank you so much for this video! I tried two types of cork, switched to felt and eventually found the teflon you mentioned (Moss had it the whole time) and FINALLY my H4 jets are not seeping fuel. Seems the cork seals even in the Burlen kits - with new jets/bearings - is no guarantee.
Hey David, I’ve been rebuilding my gearbox and your videos have been a life saver! I’ve currently got mine assembled but am running into a problem. Gears 1-4 shift flawlessly, but when I engage reverse, the whole shaft locks up. I’m using a 17 tooth reverse idler because that’s what my gearbox originally used, but my lay shaft gear is from a gearbox that was using a 21 tooth idler, could this be my problem?? Thanks for all your videos, cheers
Hi Henry, that is absolutely the cause if you're problem. The 17 tooth and 21 tooth idlers are not interchangeable, to resolve you're problem you will need to match the idler to a 13 tooth laygear if using the 17 tooth idler, or a 15 tooth laygear for the 21 tooth idler. Unfortunately you will have to dismantle the gearbox again to correct this issue, you will also have to check the first/second synchronization ring as that also is not interchangeable with the idlers or laygear. E mail me if you require any other information, oryxdriver@gmail.com David
Thanks for that detailed vid. I have a 2006 2.8JTD van which I've just converted and I presume the route to the location of the breather cap will be the same as yours? I hope 👍👍
Hi David, Your a hero!!! I have been looking for a Vid to explain the timing on a 450 for over a year now. I built one engine and got the timing right by luck rather than judgment with probing the No 1 cylinder and guessing really. Your second Vid was a great help too with the sprockets and very well explained. Got one engine apart and ready for assembly and will walk into the workshop tomorrow a lot more confident thanks for to your help. Big Thanks Matty
i was getting sporadic times when it wouldn't go into gear. i took it off, mine has also the rivets, so put grease inside. put it back in. now i saw where the marks were when it came out, and and i used a reverse clamp to push it so it would line up... did you have to do that also or just put it in, and put the screws back in? also the plastic was really brittle and the tabs snapped of... and like a dummy i didn't mark which way it went in - i may have put it in backwards. also saw a video where a guy had software so the car would 'relearn' the clutch?? if 1 and 6 are the power, what are the colour of the wires going IN to those please?
You don't need to worry about pulling the rod in or out,using a 12v battery put 1 pos wire on number 1 and one neg wire on number six will operate the lever, just change around so so swap Ng to positive and visa versa One will push lever out the other will pull it back in don't force the lever using clamps, David
Great video which I watched 3 times I enjoyed it so much, each time noticing something new. Fantastic job on the rebuild, everything so clean and tidy with an attention to detail, even the dipstick has a lick of paint, oh yes, and sounding sweet as a nut to me.
Hello David- Thanks for you videos they are very helpful. I know this video is over a year old but I thought I would ask anyway. Starting at about 2:45, you are taking apart the gear/synchro and then putting it back together. How did you know the syncho did not get flipped when you put it back together? The synchro is not symmetric, and you can install it backwards if you are not paying attention. - Phil
