My RC channel features repairs and upgrades w/o a ton of talking and filler. My videos will be quick to the point repairs of my RC fleet. Hopefully you enjoy and or learn something by watching me fumble through the mechanical portion of this amazing hobby. Thank you for watching!
My videos are for entertainment only. I am not responsible for any damages or warranty issues on your RC. I am not responsible for any injuries you or anyone else may incur enjoying the RC hobby. Work on your RC at your own risk.
Sorry for the delay! The truck is stock. I don't know the original oil weights, but I'm using 35 weight (425 CST) in all the shocks. I believe I'm using 50K in the front diff (may be 30K from factory) and 30K in the rear (was grease from the factory). I'm happy with the runnability. I feel like I have a bit more control over the truck in a power slide situation, I assume due to the tighter differential oil. Hopefully that helps! Thank you for watching!
Awesome vid man I love how you show everything because I want to build a x maxx because I can't afford one right now. Do you have any old used parts that you would want to sell?
I'm glad you like it! The cost of ownership for an X-Maxx actually isn't that bad. However, buying one can be expensive. I get all my trucks used because, in my opinion, they'll only look new for the first run. It's a great truck and super durable. Good luck getting one!
Thanks for watching and commenting! I don't have a lot of experience with 2wd trucks but I do know a lot about batteries. First make sure your ESC has a low voltage cut off and it's activated! Super important! I would go with a Lipo battery for best performance. In a nutshell the largest number advertised on the battery represents how long the battery will last. A 5.0 AH battery is a 5000 MAH battery. The larger the rating the longer the battery will last. C rating is going to be the punch that the battery provides when you spike the throttle. Generally the higher the better however in a two-wheel drive application that may not be the case. The "S" is a cell count. So 2s is a 2 cell battery and a 3s is a 3 cell battery. The more cells the more power. In my opinion even on the four-wheel drive trucks 2s is plenty of power. 3s starts to be uncontrollable and breaks a lot of parts. That's obviously an outline of what the numbers mean. I would encourage you to check out some RU-vid videos on the subject if you'd like to learn in depth information. Maybe I'll make a video! Personally I like to run 2s LiPO batteries, 5000 to 5500 ish MAH, 35c or better batteries. A lot of the off market brands misrepresent their C rating. That's a likely reason that Traxxas batteries have a lower C rating and some of the other competitors yet they perform better. Hopefully that's helpful!
Do you know that because of the noise? I was thinking the noise was due to having metal gears. I will definitely research gear mesh. Thanks again for the comments and for watching!
If you watch around 1:01:30 I powered it up with the servo horn connected. It tried to turn hard to one side and destroyed it. The gear that's on the output shaft of the motor ended up spinning on the shaft. I don't know if that gear is pressed on or how it's fastened to the motor shaft. To my knowledge it's dead. I'll probably take a look at it eventually.
I just brough a traxxis spartan which has the same high current connectors...problem is,the batteries i bought ,2x ovonic 3s 11.1v 8000 mAh 50C dont have the right connections to fit my boat 😂 so i need an adapter...but im not entirely sure which one.
Most adapters I've seen on the Internet are for charging only. Make sure if you buy an adapter it's rated for the intended purpose. You may be better off installing the correct connector. Your local hobby store may be able to help you if you can't install it yourself.
If anyone does hard bashing I’d try to swap that stock esc fan with something metal framed! You’ll move much more air and it is much less likely to bend and break on hard landings…. Mine gave out and took my esc with it shortly after
If you've never had the chance to try a properly fast on-road RC car, you'll absolutely love it . Maintenance costs stay low as long as you keep all four tires on the ground. I've had a few clutch issues, but nothing too serious. However, aggressive driving really takes a toll on tires. Typically, I only get about 10 packs out of a set before they fail. By the eighth pack, the tires are effectively worn out. I plan to conduct a few tire tests later this year. Hopefully that helps.
@@RebuildRC-1843 just got my first rc car a couple weeks ago it’s the hyper go h14bm goes like 50 it’s a 1/14 scale. Messed around with my brother infraction 6s and loved it. But the price range a little to high for me so I was checking out the 3s
I buy all my RCs used. It's a bit of a gamble but I like to tinker as much as I like to run them. Sometimes you can find a good deal on a used tested vehicle at RC shops as well.
Thank you for watching! Just a heads up! It's not a fun project and it will add weight. I feel like in the end it was worth it on the X-Maxx but your mileage may vary. I'm not saying don't do it! Just being transparent with you. Thanks again for watching!
I would encourage you to reformulate your comment unless you can provide definitive proof from your own testing or a manual that the way I have the limiting straps installed is wrong. You can check out videos from MSM and Outsourcedrc on the topic. You can also check out my other running videos to see how my configuration is working. If you disagree that my configuration is best I'll have that conversation with you but to say it's wrong is not the way this works.
That truck is unreal. It bent the drive shaft and popped the upper rear arm out but it was still driving fine. I have a video showing the repair if you're interested.
I ordered the silver dboots 2.4 for my vendetta. All I want to do is speedruns. I hope these are decent enough just for that? I was so torn between white gold and silver. I just bought silver based on the chart they have. It seemed more all around the better choice for me.
If you're familiar with the Elevens you'll find that the silvers have way more grip. I think you're going to be happy with them for speed runs that said I just mess around so I'm not entirely sure what a good tire would feel like trait-wise. I am going to be doing some comparison videos between the Elevens and the silvers. I'm also going to try to maybe put golds on the front and silver's on the back to see if it helps with the understeer that my Infraction developed from the tire swap. Definitely let me know how it goes!
Can you be more specific? Are you talking about the output shafts from the differentials or the drive cups? Do you have movement of the entire diff in the bulkhead housing?
Very little movement but yes, very very small movement but yes, they do swivel side to side a very very small space in between pots so pots don’t warp or strip or wear the against the plastic small, but limited spacing
This stuff I'm using is Lucas white lithium grease. Any kind of tacky multi-purpose grease would be fine for the pinion and ring. You don't want something too light because it'll fling off, if you go to heavy you'll have some unneeded resistance. I like marine greases the best. Special lube 101, 2-4-C or Quicksilver extreme is really good stuff. That said I don't think you need to spend big money on grease for differentials.
For sure I would do small parts at a time if I did it again. I did not enjoy the project but I will say in the end I'm happy I did it. Hopefully you will feel the same way.
Thats exactly what I think, just get a new shell for £30 to £40 quid Ain't worth the hassle Shoogoo and dry wall tape costs over £25 ain't worth the grief
Had an old erevo 2.0 that ran but needed a rebuild badly was lowkey scared to take it apart but now that I have this it’s about to get rebuilt screw by screw appreciate the video I really do🔥🔥
Does the Gorilla glue you used have a strong toxic smell when applying? Shoe Goo needs well ventilated space and would be nice to find something else that’s not so toxic.
For liability purposes I would say use as the manufacturer suggests on the container. My personal experience is, you can smell the product but it isn't overwhelming. I did my project in my basement. The tube actually says low odor right on it and it is made for interior home repairs.
It's good. I haven't tried the shoe goo so I can't speak to what's best. I will say I learned a lot on this project and would do it differently if I had to do it again. I would cut much smaller strips of the tape so it would lay down better. I would also maybe spray a light high tack or something to hold the tape before the goo is applied. I've seen some use hot glue. I would also use a lot less goo and or go thinner with it. Pros- definitely a lot more durable. Cons-time-consuming, not a fun job, very heavy. I'm not sure if this is the product I used or just the nature of the application.
I'll make a RU-vid short of how the body looks now after a lot of bashing. I'm sure you've seen some of my shorts of how I treat the truck so you can get an idea of how well it's working.
Perfect full breakdown and rebuild for us erevo owners,as i watched video i was saying to myself i remember replacing each parts seperate times about 13 times, i bought my erevo 3 days before sledge dropped first rc ,i owned and upgraded
Very nice, with the diffs buried deep in the chassis and that dual servo setup, the e-revo can be a bit of a beast to work on. How long did it take you to do all that?
Thank you! I probably had 12 hours or so in it. I bought that truck in the condition you see it at the beginning of the video. It took me a bit longer to finish because I had no maintenance history on it. Do me a favor, if you can, watch some of my videos with the AI voiceovers. Let me know if you like that format better or w/o voiceovers. Thank you for your comment!
@@RebuildRC-1843 The voiceover is great for those short instructional videos. I watched the full rebuild just for entertainment. I don’t think those type of videos need voiceovers
Thanks for the input I really appreciate it. I got some better lighting and an ND filter so I'm excited to put out my next video. I also learned how to adjust the aspect ratio in the edit. My next full rebuild on the Infraction should be out soon. Thanks again for watching and sharing your thoughts!
My Revo is almost stock. I'm running on 4s at the skate park because i font feel I need a ton of power to hit large jumps. I have HR limit straps, upgraded Traxxas push rods, HR 10mm hub extensions and Duratrax tires. You can see under the hood in this video. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-OZxtqIJ74Q0.htmlsi=CHjghOO2JGbEMjZq
I use normal dish soap for plastic and WD-40 to clean metal parts. Warm water and a brush helps. I think Kevin Talbot has a video about soaking plastic parts with WD-40 to improve plasticity. I don't know if it actually works or not. I'll see if I can find the video and link it.
No. I was doing some maintenance to familiarize myself with the truck. I bought it used with a bad slipper clutch. As far as the diffs go I haven't had any problems. Do you have binding issues?
Just do some driving around, nothing too serious. The 5 spokes look way better than the stock ones. I wanted to match my 1/7 scale Infraction too.@@RebuildRC-1843
The truck is expensive up front. I would argue the cost of ownership is low. It just doesn't die. I had to heavily modify my Revo to get the durability up. My Infraction destroys the set of tires that cost 65 plus dollars in 7 runs. My stampede destroys drive shafts almost every run. If you upgrade the drive shafts it destroys differentials. The XMax Just takes absolutely everything I give it and keeps going. That said I'm not the skatepark type basher. I have taken it to a skatepark but I don't jump at 30 ft into walls and stuff.
