Hi, I have a Nissan rogue 2012 and I have the same problem a lot of water on the spare tire, I replace the two like clips with originals but still have a small leak with rain hard 🤔
@@danesen you may check this part too, is the next hole under the turn light bolts, 88796-6P000 this hold the back bumper and looks like was the reason of my leak
Thanks for the video, I have the same issue on my 2013, I'm guessing my grommets failed because I didn't remove the panel and it started doing it (right as im getting ready to sell it) going to try finding better washers. Managed to crack a small piece of the light off trying to remove it 😢
Sorry you cracked the bezel. I did the same thing. Need a small plastic shim and wedge it between the two retaining clips. Search yt for a how to, only way I was able to figure it out. It started leaking again this winter and I had to do this whole job again with better rubber grommets. I made them with a rubber sheet and cut them to size to match the existing.
Looks nice - thanks for the video. Another way to support a cracked bumper is with galvanized hanger straps from big box home supply store and JB Weld - straps give a little more strength. You can put small through holes in the bumper with a nut and bolt on either side until it cures, then take the bolts out.
I have a slightly different set up on my 2019 leaf, but it is basically the same spot that is leaky.In fact, the bracket you show is a little rusty, like it has been leaking there for longer than you think. I have tried: the bolt grommets, first by caulking the grommets, then capping them. I then thought that it was flowing into the cavity where 1) the lenses and the trapezoidal body panel, 2) the side and corner body panels, 3) the back lower body panel and 4) the black plastic panel where the lens is bolted onto come together. What a nightmare. So you have several hidden components coming together where a massive amount of water comes through! So I tried to use the self adhesive tape to seal off the whole cavity still leaked on the same leak test you do. Other leak remediations where attempted to isolate source, like caulking around all lens covers, which is absurd, but I was desperate. Also I caulked around the hatch after removing the one piece weatherstripping bead, which I thought would take care of it because I sprayed water where it seemingly should be ok for water to go, which is where the gunnel dumps on the bottom. Sure enough I got it to leak through the metal body panel that is directly below the door loop hasp. Two components there are assembled the idiot way, which is where if water goes on that seam it allows water to go in because the pieces fit top outside over bottom inside (please water come in)! Bad design. I thought I had it because I caulked everything, but a deluge storm level three proved otherwise and it leaked. I am set to get a new weatherstrip. But again, the way they designed it, water should be able to go where I am trying to keep it out! But the way they made it you I would have to seal at the body seam under the lower plastic body piece which means I have to completely remove the rear body panel to even see it. I am hesitant to bring it in to the dealer ($) because it is out of warranty. There is also the fact that the spot welds on the metal bend hems around hatch created an uneven weatherstrip surface which I am building up with adhesive weather tape for the new weatherstrip to set on. Nightmare
I had some thin foam tape laying around that I cut to the shape of the missing gasket. I would recommend using the actual Nissan product if you can find it. I also added a little petroleum jelly to help the watertight seal.
Use real rubber gaskets or make your own from a rubber sheet to make a gasket. The foam tape failed this winter and I had to do the job all over again.
I seem to have the same issue. So a new foam washer for the bottom one would fix it? Is there a click on the tail light. I took the 3 nuts out but dont wanna pull it to hard i dont wanna break it
Yeah a new foam washer seemed to fix it, mine was missing. If you see all the washers still there I would keep them there and apply some petroleum jelly to help it seal. To remove tail light you do need to give it a pull to pop it out. There may be some more videos online that show that process in more detail.
Nice Job i got hit in the same spot in mine nearly three weeks ago, but the body panel and crash bar is damaged so its in for insurance repairs. 2012 Leaf
I had those exact same forks for like 20 yrs : ) Thx f/posting [low rise moto bars might be a nice option-I used them on a similar build & gave it a nice vibe]
In my previous car, a 2011 VW Polo, I spliced an aux-in unit to the back so I could run a signal to a sub/amp combo in the back. It worked beautifully, but recently ditched that to buy an older Leaf. Do you think that method would work or would it mostly depend on the sub/amp combo's draw on the 12V? It's a 10" sub but I don't have the amp specs on the top of my head.
I’ve read that you don’t want to do a high power system on a leaf since it might draw too much power from the 12V battery. I haven’t had any issues with the small amp I put in. Be aware that if your 12v battery is low you can’t start or charge your leaf, you can jump it though like a normal car. If you want a sub woofer I would recommend you splurge for the SL that comes with a Bose woofer in the rear. I’ve never heard a SL system, curious if an upgraded SV speakers and amp are similar or better than a SL.
@@nickborrrego the SL is the “Luxury” leaf model, better interior and a comes with a little solar panel on the spoiler to charge the 12V battery. I’d also recommend investing in a good AGM 12V battery when it comes time to replace. Good luck!
@@danesen I'm still humming and hawing over the amp installation, mostly out of not wanting to undertake the project with a three year old lol but seeing as I can hear your child in the background then it's doable. The fuse installed on my amp is 15A, does that indicate it's a pretty low draw system? I'm new to car audio.
@@nickborrrego yeah I got 2 little ones at home, thanks to the ms I am able to get some projects done. Talking with Crutchfield they recommended this amp. It’s small enough that it shouldn’t deplete the 12V system. I personally have not had any issues with the 12V battery getting low with the amp installed. My 12V battery had died prior to this amp project. I installed a AGM deep cycle as an insurance policy.
Hi Dane, can you share the speaker out pin out or colours of the HU? I intend fitting a small external amp and small active subwoofer (Kenwood ksc-sw11). Thanks.
I just installed a sub Lc2i and hyfonics a500.2 I just used a multimeter and traced the wires to the rear speakers . After tracing I notice they are not the same colors , and they don’t match any of the ones out on the internet. Taking the door panel is super easy
Sounds like a cool project! The alpine unit is only intended for amplifying the 4 car speakers. I would recommend calling crutchfeild and getting the system that’s right for your build. I found this video that was able splice in a sub with this alpine: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-GEx8kv_t9KQ.html
Congratulations on your work! Question, did disconnecting the 12v battery give problems / anomalies? I would also like to do a similar job on my Zoe but I'm afraid to disconnect the 12v
Andrea Ferrandes I have disconnected the battery twice now. Once to replace the battery and again to upgrade the stereo. Everything is functional after reconnecting, when doing so make sure you connect ground first. The only anomaly I experience is the car chimes are set back to factory setting. So that startup song comes back but easily turned back off. I could do a whole video on leaf mods that make the driving experience less noisy but there are plenty of others online that explain in great detail.
If your hooked up to high level speaker inputs, your gain shouldn't exceed the 9 o'clock position, or nothing over 1/4 gain................anything more you will get a background hiss noise. Ideally you want to hook up an oscilloscope and find out the distortion point on the head unit, and then dial the gain on the amp up just under it's distortion level, watching the sign wave change shape.
Cameron thanks for the tip! I will need to try this. I have a JL audio FIX that I need to connect in the future, if the noise is still a problem I will definitely go this route.
