Having grown up in an age of make and mend do, I find myself still no richer and maintaining a long list of older cars that actually, being a petrol head, give me great pleasure. The only difference nowadays, is that I also have my boys cars to maintain as well. Hence - Garage of Dad
Thanks for looking and look forward to your questions and comments
If it was the diff all the gears would be affected The rear gearbox mounts looking like there’s a lot of movement in it I’d be draining the gearbox and checking the oil for signs of doom
Oh NO!! You're definitely having some bad luck with this one, but then it's often the way when a car has been off the road for a while. I had similar issues with my B2 Coupe - spent 2 years getting it done up then finally MOTd, then a horrible rattling started- turned out the clutch friction plate was breaking up, so I did a clutch kit and flywheel re-skim. The blower motor went as well!! As others have said, drain the gearbox oil and see if there's any metal glitter in there first. Would be worth doing this and possibly removing the gearbox now to inspect the clutch also, so you can build up the right stock of parts over the winter ready for spring. Completely feel your pain, so much patience is required with these old motors but it's a superb car and will be worth it in the end!!
Yes my thought entirely. I've ordered the correct size of sump plug key and will have a look at the oil when it arrives. TBH I always had an inkling the box wasn't right just never had the opportunity to drive it any further than the drive to find out - Keep watching and thanks for the comment.
Spoke to the original owner and the box has never been apart from the engine. I'm going to jack it right up in the air and check them then. They are the originals and will replace them if I remove the box.
You have to remove the rubber scuttle/bonnet trim then prise up the plastic trim and there are 2 Torx screws underneath it holding the top of the cowel on plus 3 10mm nuts holding it onto the bulkhead. Hope that's the part you are on about? (air intake for the heater unit)
@@garageofdadI had that piece completely removed and the tower still isn't bouncing up nice and freely. I'm thinking I may have to remove the tower and fit a new bearing.
Do you think that your refurb of the inlet manifold was a success,I'm gessing that if the actuator and arm are in tact it's mostly carbon deposits are the issue?
The main issue was a faulty injector but the decoke certainly helps with the intake airflow and the management of the intake flaps which are crucial for the smooth running of the engine and low down power. So, if you're able to undertake the job, it's definitely worth doing on a high mileage engine. The bonus being, you can replace the 'water pipe, thermostat and maybe water pump at the same time to future proof it all.
@@garageofdad Great video by the way,real life!!!Hi Garage,thank you for your prompt attention,no faulty running just an engine management light,a mate of mine checked over the diagnostics and it says inlet manifold fault,I really am reaching the end of my tether with this car,and I am mega helpful for your input.Are you suggesting checking over the injectors first the miles on this car are 113,000?What about one of these decoke aerosols and some decent petrol for a start?
@@Dipstickdanny Depends on whether it's misfiring, down on power (below 2500 revs) or high emissions. Have a look down at the flap plastic actuator rod and see if it moves when you rev. It's at the left hand side rear of the engine and can be seen visibly moving. I've watched many videos on the aerosol method and they all seem to be inconclusive. But they're a much easier and cheaper method to try first so maybe worth giving one a go. The Liqui Moly or STP versions seem to be the best.
Excellent detective work there. I think you may be right about the trigger wheel slipping round and causing the issue. So probably worth keeping the old hall sender as a spare. With the tappet noise, mine (B2 coupe) improved a lot after putting in 20w-50 Comma classic oil which is recommended for 60s-80s cars. Not sure if it is appropriate for yours being a later car, but worth looking into maybe.
Thanks. I kept the old one just in case but they are still readily available from abroad (like many parts) Still not sure about the oil as I've not run it enough yet. But may be a good call as it will sit for long periods.
@@garageofdad K-Jetronic doesn't like sitting around unused for long periods, especially the fuel distributor and warm up regulator as the tiny orifices and screens in them get gummed up easily. If you can, try to run the car up to temperature at least once every couple of weeks. If that's not possible, the place you got it fixed at might have some advice - possibly running it with fuel injection cleaner in the tank before storing it. Good luck!
I remember when my dad used to have a Discovery 3 when I was a kid, and I thought it was a very nice car indeed. It was September 2010, and I remember eagerly awaiting the moment when my dad would pull up onto our driveway in his new-to-him Discovery, and when I saw PN55TZH pulling onto our driveway for the first time, I immediately went outside to have a look around it, and I remember being very impressed by what I saw. Our Discovery was a 2005 (55-reg) HSE model with the 2.7-litre TDV6 diesel paired with the 6-speed automatic, and it was finished in a dark metallic blue (called Buckingham Blue) with the 'Alpaca' cream leather interior, which not only looked really nice, but it also made the interior a rather pleasant place to be as well. Because ours was an HSE model, it was fully loaded with all the bells and whistles, some of which we’d never had on any car we’d ever owned before, including rear air conditioning, heated rear seats, rear audio controls, etc, which 10-year-old me thought was very impressive indeed. Plus, its air suspension made it a very comfortable and relaxing car to travel in - as Jeremy Clarkson said in his Discovery 3 review back in Series 5 of Top Gear to describe the ride quality, "it doesn't go over bumps, it just flattens them." It also proved to be very useful during the massive amounts of snowfall we had in the UK during the winter of 2010/11 that we experienced around that time, because being four-wheel-drive it had no trouble driving on the snow-covered roads that would have left my mum's Vauxhall Zafira struggling for grip. Even to this day, I consider the Discovery to be one of my favourite cars we've had out of all the cars my family has ever owned so far, along with a second-generation Jeep Grand Cherokee my dad also used to have.
£1500 for a crew cab with double sliding door. 145k on the engine though but they fetching more today for sure. Great video. I learned a lot. Considering buying either a Crew cab for both sliding doors then remove the rear seats and put a bulkhead in for work. Unsure whether to go for a 2014 old shape 2L or a 2015 new shape Trafic 1.6 sportive or a Vivaro bi Turbo. Probably be too expensive for me to find any with the double sliding doors but what would you suggest is the best one to go for? I do courier work but I still like the odd weekend away etc.
I suppose buying the newer van is always the best option. But the old Vivaros are solid and generally reliable and easy to work on (this one was an exception) The beauty is, you can convert them exactly as you want and, as I use mine for my work, I have the bed raised at the rear so I can use it as a van during the week. Good luck with your search & conversion.
@@garageofdad Hi there. Thank you for your reply. As of today, I am a new owner of a 2014 traffic sport SWB in black ofc. I am no mechanic and really needed the van for work so purchased it after a good test run. Everything works as it should, however, with me never driving the older shape the steering feels a bit stiff or tight only when in the central position? Perfectly fine once I get past a few degrees. No wining from steering fluid & no leaks, just wondered if it's how they are or I need to look into it more? Cheers.
@@PCG2022 If all is well when you buy them, you can keep them serviced and should incur no faults. As usual, it's neglect that causes problems. I'd check all the steering joints and alignment. (jack it up - both wheels - and lever about and pull the wheel to and fro)They are all relatively easy to do on the Traffic - Great vans!!
Great video. And a cautionary tale to pay someone else to do this 🙃 This is like the complete song sheet of my FSI. Namely a dodgy misfire on 1 cylinder but none of the so-called specialists around here have the wherewithal to confirm if it needs a clean and possibly a replacement injector (which are pretty much only available used or recond) OR something else entirely is the cause. That said she still starts first time every time and keeps on going, misfires reagardless. Well done Garage of Dad you have the patience of Jobe - were you bit closer I'd go up and compare notes
Thanks - Mine is running great now like a little Mini Cooper S and I don't hold back with it!! :D The engine light still pops on but I'll just switch it off for the MOT Ideally, I need 4 new injectors but it's such a job so will just keep driving it for the mean time.
I had problem whith missfire cyl 1 on my A2 1.6 2004. When I look at the plastic pipe from the intake too the backvelve under the oilcap it was leaking. I chance it too a copperpipe and the motor now turns verry well. The pipe is for the ventilation of the motor.
All my seals were ok, it's the drain channels that you have to make sure are clear. The worst part of the whole job is the roof trim/fabric. Really take your time with it and try to avoid damage. You'll also need a friend to help lift the OSS on and off as it weighs a tone!!
@@diydetail8916 From what I remember, it was a dry rubber seal that was in good condition on my replacement roof. It bolted down well without using sealant although a touch of windscreen sealant won't go wrong.
After three hours pushing and pulling and banging and braying I managed to get the old one out, but no matter how much greese I put on that hexagon shaped bar - I can't get the new one in. It's worse than trying to align a drive shaft in a bell housing lol😅😅
@@terryjones9987 Yes I had to ratchet mine in. There's probably a special tool for the job but if I bought every special tool I've needed over the years, I'd be down a few thousand pounds!
Добрый день Дад.Приятно смотреть как вы делаете все своими руками это очень хорошо и практично я тоже делаю все сам это мне доставляет большое удовольствие и приносит большой доход .Класс.
Cudos to u man,,,all u videos ,,is at good help,,,I`m struggling with my -92 Audi 80 cab with Ng 2,3L and similar injection ,,,,KE- jetronic,,,keep up the good work👏👏👏
I’ve just bought myself a 1989 coupe and I’m having some trouble getting the exhaust manifold off, have you ever had the manifold off? If so how did you do it?
Found on another channel(Cannot remember what) if like me you had "Injection Fault" and "Check emmisions" signs simply start the engine and unplug the MAF sensor. If it is OK the engine will stop. If it is bad then the engine will continue to run. Changed mine (thanks to Dads Garage) and used ODB hand rig (cheap off ebay)to clear faults. No issues so far! Still get about 20 secs of beeping on start up but no lights or messages! But I do not think it is connected.
@@garageofdad i mean i put it all back together and took it to a garage, my mechanic did not love me for that 😃 now i have a garage and 2no. A2's so will Definitely will do it myself 👌
Been there like you, With my 83 Quattro UR.. Had problem with rust and water, in fuel tank. Replaced my tank with Alloy unit. Return fuel pressure valve sticking.closed. Remove and clean out. Only small amount ot water rust specks there. Pressures checked for and return. Low vacuum at warm up valve. Found pipe had been disconnected. Running ok. Having start up problem's now I have changed engine . Poor tick over. Plugs, sencers, injector 's , pump and filters replaced. After eight yrs of no problems, it's starting to test my resolve, now. Best regards. Great to watch your video. Darryl Tucker.
Oh dear! Have to admit, I was so tempted by the Emerald stand alone ECU kit as per Wheeler Dealers Audi Coupe but they didn't answer my enquiry. However, Rob at Nentsport sorted it all out for me and at the end of the day, it was a combination of everything! However, my brake servo was rusted through causing a massive vacuum leak resulting in the non-start. Keep at it!!
