Hi. You either have to have a replacement element which uses the existing air filter box or do similar to what I’ve done, biggest issue is the air flow sensor which needs positioning. The pipe supplied never worked for me so I purchased a separate pipe and adapted the throttle body pipe to accept the sensor. Seems to work ok. Also depends on if you have a 1.0 or 1.2
Thank you. First video like this. I sat there with a cup of coffee on this frosty morning and just took in the calmness of the moment. Thought it could help others? Thanks again.
Hi. Search it on eBay and you’ll find it there. Had no issues with it coming from abroad and it turned up really quickly! If no joy let us know and I’ll look back through my purchase history and tell you the company I got it from.
Got the same symptoms on my Corsa D so will follow your guide to clean all the parts. I might also try to make a rubber seal to sit between the outside of the handle and the bodywork to try to prevent water ingress. Thanks for posting this.
Hi there i have the 2006 Vauxhall corsa and need to change the reverse light switch, is this doable from the bonnet and does oil drain out when i remove the old switch or does it drain from elsewhere on the gearbox, thanks.
Hi. You should be able to carry out the task from the top, depending on vehicle engine size you may have to get to it from underneath especially if it’s a diesel. No oil should be lost, might have a tiny bit on the internal part of the switch but nothing major. Look out for the small O ring seal as this may get stuck in hole and renew. The only way I know how to renew all the oil is to remove the pan on the transmission like my video or suck it out but this is a bit hit or miss personally, Hope this helps?
Nice fix Rich, just a couple of note worthy things to keep in mind the locking/unlocking in a short space of time can cause the central locking to lockout for a time period, even my Cavalier does this and I have seen other car manufacturers do the same thing, I think it’s so it doesn’t flatten the battery if a micro switch or other component malfunctions. Like you said the inner boot skin will get condensation on it in cold weather. Nice video though mate well done.
Nice video Rich, you’ve made a mistake that I made on an upcoming video of mine, where I run the engine with the tripod in the engine bay of the car 🤦♂️ we live and learn! ❤
Actually from the car? The cables push fit on, they can be a bit fiddly to remove but after a bit of twist and pull they do come off. Then remove bolt which attaches to the clutch housing. Remember if you remove this linkage you have to lock/fix the gearstick. Remove gaiter , gearstick in neutral and you should see a plastic fixings with a hole in it , slide a drill or thin screw driver into to it and it will lock the gearstick to stop it moving while you remove the linkage. Hope this makes sense?
@@trickyg9130 Thanks for your reply, although I don't understand. There are 'no' cables to remove, the linkage mechanism doesn't have 'cables.' I just want to renew the bushes and link arm. Thanks again for your time, appreciated.
@@isobar5857 Sorry I’m thinking of a different engine. Where the linkage joins the transmission there is a joint with a pin which joins the linkage to the transmission rod. It’s a bit fiddly again but spray it up and there is a spring the other side of it which you should be able to push in which then pushes the pin out. The pin is about 2 inches long but once you get it out the linkage mechanism can be removed.
@@trickyg9130 Thanks again for the reply. This has turned out to be a nightmare of a job! Spent five hours on it today and had no luck. Got the linkage off and renewed the plastic bushings...now it wont go into gear. Had the locking pin[ the one with the spring behind it for gearbox location] but when this pin goes in, the white plastic plastic part of the gear stick is out off position and is not in line with the locator peg on it. Tried all positions of with 50mm tork clamp on the gear selector shaft coming from the gear change in the car and nothing works. At my wits end. Any further advice would be much appreciated, and thank you.
@@isobar5857 hmmm. Sounds like you have put it back together slightly wrong. I have done this. Hopefully you took some pictures before you took it off, but if you haven’t look for one on the internet/eBay to look at the picture for the positioning and orientation. It does sound like something is the wrong way round. Very easy to do as I’ve done it.
If it the one I'm thinking it is, fairly sure I managed to get a small ring spanner on it. Rear mount is in the way and exhaust is annoying. Is the car your working on a 1.2 ?
there is magic throughout this entire video, didn't see nothing work related happening here, everytime is just "boom" off is the bolts and sump without a spot of oil on it, then again "boom" there's the gasket then "boom" there is the sump back on with one difficult bolt still to be torqued, then "boom" it's torqued.... boom in is the pipes and funnel to fill up the oil, but yes, "boom" thanks for the video
Thanks for feedback, first ever video all done on my phone so no hands free to get my hands working. Tried to do my best for a step by step as alot of videos miss alot of buts out especially the pain in the bum bits which look simple. All the best.
Probably pushing it, to do in 60minutes. If you haven't got to do anything with the driveshafts then the whole job is easier. I would probably say 2 hours .
