I was just going to install piercing valve on my dehumidifier which uses R410. The Supco Piercing valve instructions state it is not for R410 use. Any thoughts??? Please! What is the best piercing valve for R410?
Fantastic video! I have the same Viking fridge and am having to exert a lot of effort in opening the bottom freezer drawer. Lots of squeaking happens too. Have you found those rollers failing over time and requiring replacement? As you said, replacement slides are a fortune through Viking. I’m trying to see if I can just change the rollers and clean the track. Oddly enough the rollers are not listed as a replacement part, Viking wants to sell the whole slide.
My BI-42S's pannel stopped working for a while but everything else works smoothly. After watching this video, I decided to replace the panel (7009857). I ordered the part from the distributor located in the Northeast. Luckily, the replacement solved the problem. Thanks so much for the educational video!
Hello sir, could you please help me, my friend has sub zero 501r, in side the refrigerator back wall and evaporator keep freeing, so far i vacuumed the system and add new Freon (r134 10oz) “because he added some Freon” n system has no leaks. So what could be the problem? Thank you
@@Hvacr-k1t is the compressor cycling on and off? Or does it run continuously? 501R is an off-cycle defrost, so if it doesn’t shut off then check the thermostat.
If you had to add Freon then you have a leak, also too much Freon can cause the evaporator coil to ice up. Did you pull a vacuum on the system before you recharged it?
I have a 700 TF freezer which is tripping intermittently. The unit will just stop with no error codes displayed on the panel. Pushing the ON/OFF button restarts it with no problem and it then seems to run for a few days before tripping out again. I have had a technician in to check the unit and there does not seem to be an issue with the compressor/refrigerant/relays etc. He does think the control board is the issue because there is no error code displayed when it trips, but there does not seem to be anything else that could be causing the issue. Do you have any suggestions? Replace control board?
@@petersmith374 is it a variable speed compressor. Do you have an inverter box next to the compressor? I would not suspect a control board but it could be. Are there any other appliances on the same circuit? It could also be the wall outlet. Try plugging the freezer into a different outlet.
@@SubZeroSpecialists The unit is about 15 years old - don't think it has a variable speed compressor. It is powered on a dedicated circuit from the electrical panel so no other appliances on the circuit. I did power down from the breaker and let it sit for few minutes and then powered it back on just in case a 'reboot' would help. The technician also suggested moisture in the keypad due to the lighting plate not in position correctly. I'll let it run now and see if it trips again... Thank you so much for your help!
Most of the time when the circuit trips it’s the compressor or the wall outlet. I’m not sure if I’ve ever seen a display panel or board trip the breaker.
Hello, I broke the exact same side supporter and am looking for the parts, just like the one you had in this video. Would you be kind enough to advise where I can possibly find one? I live in Canada and am willing to pay for the necessary shipping fees.
Too bad…I broke the exact same side that you replaced. Right side when I place the front panel towards the back. Or left side if I’m looking at the front panel.
Hi our 650 model freezer does not have these caps as shown so not sure if that was a new addition by Subzero to adjust the door tilt! I do have to adjust the track levels and will try the first part of the video to adjust.
Hello, I am working on a SubZero 700BFI 3. I replaced both the main board and user interface and I’m having trouble programming it. The new board came with programming instructions but it’s not acting as described. I recently corresponded with you with regard to this unit and I thank you for your reply. I couldn’t get you the info you requested because tenants wouldn’t allow me access. If you’re willing to help me with this issue I would gladly compensate you by any means you prefer. The unit is 700BFI 3 Serial #M245597. Thank you!
Hi again, another Q. So I had the control board replaced today and it’s working perfectly BUT the freezer drawer now is a bear to move. The right sided glide takes a lot of force. Is that common bc we let it completely defrost and freeze again? Do I have to now have the glide changed or is it possible to try lubricating w/ dry silicone lubricant or other? Thx!!!
Same motor is used in many home refrigerators. I just replaced one in a GE. In my case, I don't think the motor was bad (still spinning, no excessive shaft movement), but owner had ordered the evap fan and wanted me to replace it. I also found ice buildup in the air channel between freezer and fridge. I believe the ice buildup was the result of a faulty thermostat, which I replaced days prior.
Hi and thank you for your excellent videos! I have a SZ 501F that is not as cold as would be desired (it is around 8 to 9 F) I put gauges up and am showing a little high on both sides... 15 psi on the suction and 250 psi on the high side (??) I am not suspecting a leak, nor a restriction. Maybe there is TOO much refrigerant in the system? The auto defrost timer has been determined to be working correctly and is not suspect. If you have any pointers I would be most appreciative! On a related question, I am curious... is it possible to repair, by soldering, an expansion coil such as is found on these types of models?
@@SubZeroSpecialists Thank you for your response, and please forgive me… stupid typo - I was referring to the evaporator coil! If there is a leak in the evaporator is that something that typically can be repaired with solder or is it always a replacement? Regarding the initial problem, my suspicion is that the unit may have been overcharged. The compressor is fairly new and any dust has been completely removed from the condenser. The fan motor is also new. What should those low and hi pressures read ideally? …Bearing in mind it is using R 12 Thanks again :-)
@@PhilSoussanOfficial is it an aluminum or copper evaporator? If you know where the leak is yes you can solder it, if it’s an aluminum evaporator and it’s leaking at the blast joint I have a video on how to repair it. Soldering aluminum is tricky due to its low melting point, but it can be done.
Great video, thank you. My BI-42UFD display went out and both fridge and freezer stopped cooling yesterday, tossed a ton of food😢… believe I need to change the control board (I believe 7021750) then reprogram and, most importantly, add a surge protector!!! Am I on the right track? Any specific surge protector u would suggest for the small space next to the condenser? Thx again!
@@SubZeroSpecialistsThx for your reply! That was the number listed for the main control board on the wiring diagram. I’ll obviously double check with the parts distributor but I think I’m likely going to have a certified tech do the repair anyways so I don’t have to mess with the programming. Your video makes it look easy so that was tempting!
Hi I have a 690 model subzero the ice maker is working fine but the ice in the ice container is melting and freezing over as a block preventing the use of the ice dispenser would you by any chance know what could be the problem? Thanks
@@soniafortin4924 sounds like your ice maker or water valve need attention. I would check the water valve first to make sure it is stopping the flow of water at the end of a cycle or it could be a faulty ice maker.
Hi! I have the same Viking refrigerator that is about 17 years old. The previous owner had to replace the evaporator fan motor about 7-8 years ago and I had to change the thermistor and defrost thermostat about 2 years ago as the ice kept building up in the freezer. It has been working fine until now, I noticed that the freezer is not cold enough to make ice (10-20 F)but fridge seems to be fine. I noticed that the evaporator fan isn’t spinning when the freezer door is closed but I see the evaporator coils are icing/melting. Do you think this is the evaporator fan motor issue? Or can a bad thermistor cause evaporator fan not to spin? I hear the refrigerator is running all the time, it used to stop and run until now. Hoping it’s not any freon leakage issue… I learned from your video how to access the coils up top and noticed the coils are all covered with dusts. I am planning to clean the coils and replace the thermistor for now and see if that helps… Do you service the units in CT? (Fairfield county).
@@juyoungsong4997 we don’t service CT. Is it a variable speed compressor? The evaporator fan runs with the compressor but only when the defrost terminator switch is closed. Check to see if you have power going to the fan motor .
@@juyoungsong4997 if the condenser is dirty try cleaning that first. If you can check the pressure in the sealed system on the low side that will help in diagnostics. Try the simple things first.
@@SubZeroSpecialists Yes It has a variable speed compressor. How can i check if defrost terminator is off? I tried to spin the fan manually and it spun without any resistance. Time to time I hear the fan runs for a few minutes and brings down the temperature to 0F or below but it stops little after and let the freezer temp to go back up to 15-20F. Do you think it’s the circuit issue?
@@SubZeroSpecialistswill do, i will clean the condenser coils first. I am just a house owner who’s trying to teach himself to fix the problematic refrigerator, won’t be able to check the pressure…
Looking for some help. 700tci3 running and powering off. Sometimes push buttons work. Sometimes not. Same with door and freezer lights. Verified it is not the door light switch. Ordered board as it seemed like power supply issue swapped board and still have same issue. Getting 120 v to lights when it works but only seeing 1 or 2 v when it is not working. What other sensor would interrupt power from the control board? Also sometimes Refigriator evap fan losses power. Sometime in sync with lights and other times they work independently.
Are you referring to the shroud the lights attack to? I have check that and seems ok. Unit is built in and can’t get to wires on top or back of cabinet. When it gets power I can hear the relay on the control board click. What other sensor would prevent control board from supplying power?
@@davidcooper3875 the sensors don’t control the board. It sounds to me that you have an electrical issue. Did you program the board per the instructions?
Did you take the back panel off and drop the the fan shroud down? I’m pretty sure there’s a harness behind there. Go to our website and look up the wiring diagram for your model and serial, I’m sure there’s a harness back there.
I own a uc15, if it wasn’t for your videos on it, it wouldn’t be running right now. The cost to get a certified Sub zero tech to look at it let alone diagnose or fix it isn’t worth the price of the ice maker. My thanks to you.
@@assidaartem Changing the heat exchanger requires pulling the unit from the wall, it’s a lot of work for one man. I can do it but I didn’t have the heat exchanger with me so I evacuated the system and weighed in the right amount of Freon. This will allow the customer to use the refrigerator while she decides what to do.
Keith, do you ever add a dye dryer and use a UV light to help locate leaks? I've had several 650s and 601 Sub-Zero units that were almost impossible to find their leaks. I recover the refrigerant and braze in a whirlpool dye dryer. The last 601 I did took almost a year to leak enough to be noticeable. Shine the UV flashlight in and it lit-up like a Christmas tree. the leak was at the steel line right where it enters the water in the condensation pan.
@@qluna3821 I don’t promote putting anything in a sealed system other than refrigerant. I don’t use leak sealer or dyes. I’ve seen too many sealed systems ruined with clogged cap tubes. Dyes work better in A/Cs and commercial systems with expansion valves.
Hey. Thank you for your videos. In my case - I disassembled it up to the bolts, the issue is- water, that sprayers spray goes through the blinds and dumps to the drain(model without the drain pump). and there is not enough of water to make thick ice cubes. do you have video how those blinds should work , cause 10 years old icemaker works totally fine when I hold the blinds so the water doesn`t spill..or any ideas
Having issue with 700tci3 Lights not working was first symptom. Reset breaker and would come back on. Seems to run normal and cool most of time. Becoming more frequent in occurance. Yesterday open door and lights started coming on and off every couple of seconds. Could hear relay clicking each time. Suspect control board issue. Any other simple things to check before replacing it?
I also have a Sub Zero BI36U/S that I am trying to add this drain heater to but I cannot find the same 110/120V line to connect the heater to. The wiring of my refrigerator does not look like the one you were working on. I took pictures of the wiring layout that I can send to you and maybe you can show me which line goes to the fan with 110/120V AC. I spent 2 hours this morning taking the refrigerator apart and putting everything back together. Looking for some help.
Which drain heater are you using? I use the Supco SH-250 which is a 3 watt heater and connects to the black and white wires that power the air filter. Make sure the air filter is on otherwise the drain heater won’t work.
I am using the SH-250. Since I don't have a wiring diagram, point me to the air filter to see if I can find it. Is it in the upper compartment when the condensor and water filter are? I have pictures of the wiring that I have available that I can send you via email.
@@johncunningham265 if you have a BI-36 it’s it’s in the refrigerator compartment behind the back panel a few inches above the evaporator coil. It’s in the video.
Love the idea of rebuilding it to get it running. After watching your video on rebuilding condenser fan motors, I've started to offer onsite rebuild options to clients who dont want to pay the price of new motors.
Please need help I replaced a new control board for subzero bi-42s and seem everything works but I didn't reprogram it does that effect the refrigerator in the future?
First check the cable from the display to the back wall. It could be the board and the display, it’s hard to say, also check to see if the parts are still available. I would start with the display
I have a Subzero 690 and have some ice build up on the ice chute door. Is the replacement similar? I know you mention the part number is different. The Subzero website mentions changing the door gasket. How can I determine if it's the ice chute door heater or the door gasket that's causing the issue?
@@alann3805 is the ice chute flap free to move, is there any ice around it? A leaky door seal would also cause more moisture to be sucked in. Check the flap first.
@@SubZeroSpecialists there is some ice build up around the chute door. When I remove the ice, it will work for approximately a week before the ice builds up again. The door gets stuck with the ice around the edges.
@@alann3805 change the chute heater, it comes in a kit and is a different procedure from the BI Series. You can peruse our website aaronsrefrigeration.com under Tech-Help and find the part number. Read the instructions first so you understand the procedure. The next one I do one I will make a video.
This is really helpful to see, but for the BI36U display panel (part 7009861), could you clarify if a homeowner would still need to know how to program (or digitally link) the panel after it’s installed? And, if so, can that be done just with the keypad itself, or would it require a service visit from a tech? Thanks, in advance, for any clarification you can provide!
I have a subZero 700BC that has had a problem. It would occasionally freeze up the past few years and no air would pass the evaporator. I would have to power it off and thaw it out. This would take several months to happen. I made sure the condenser coils were cleaned each time. In the past three weeks, it has failed twice now. The evaporator coils look frosty but not frozen and plugged like before. If I shut it down for a day it works again for a few days then freezer temps climb up to the mid to upper 20s while still set at -5. I cleaned the condenser coils each time this happened originally thinking this was the cause but they were never totally plugged and only showed slight signs of dirt. Now I can't load food back into it just to have it get warm again in a few days so I have to address this problem. I monitor my refrigeration at my home with Govee sensors and I can see a temperature spike in this freezer every 6 hours which I assume is a defrost cycle. When it gets too hot my phone alerts me and the freezer climbs from -5 to 39F but still cycles cooler and warmer and hangs out in this zone. Does this look like a gas leak over time?
@@RandallKC I want to say that is seems like the compressor is running all the time thereby creating all that frost which blocks the circulation of air up to the refrigerator compartment. You may have a Freon leak since you know that the defrost cycle is working. Remember there is a drain hole at the bottom of the tub where the evaps is and sucks in hot air from the compressor area. Check the pressure on the low side of the system and see if you’re running in a vacuum. If so that’s a leak. We should have videos on doing that.
Thanks for posting this - is the wiring essentially same for BI-36U? And when everything seems to be working fine (including the digital display) other than the the keypads becoming completely nonresponsive to touch, would the necessary first step be to go ahead replace the keypad panel assembly before wondering if there’s anything wrong with the control board? I don’t know how to enter diagnostic mode without using the keypads and wonder if the only step needed to address this entire issue is just to replace the keypad panel. I’d be appreciative of any advice you can offer!
@@justfornow2753 if the keypad is unresponsive then change that first. Do a hard reset first first by disconnecting the power cord or shutoff the circuit breaker.
@@SubZeroSpecialists Thank you for that quick reply! Turning the circuit breaker off didn’t seem to make a difference so I’ll definitely try replacing the keypad next. Do you think there’s a really good chance this will be the only step needed, given that the digital display itself fine? Or can other components (like the control board) interfere with the keypad somehow, even when everything else seems fine?
