Does seem tacky doesn’t it, keep in mind it’s just to clean and pick up those micro specs of debris, a much much better option is Seadoo’s XPS anticorrosion lube. Wd40 is all I had on hand, then go back and actually lube with engine oil
@@Titan_MX_Customs word of advice since you aren't trolling, WD-40 leaves a film that you can't wipe off and it's not a lubricant, the film or WD-40 for that matter. What happens is the film attracts moisture, because for whatever reason, at least I'm my opinion, WD-40 thought that they had so much grab in the market that they could do essentially what drug companies do, cause a condition them sell you the remedy, but I'm this case the condition and remedy are the same can of BS. Do an experiment. Spray it on some really clean metal, wipe it down, let it sit for a day. I bet when you come back the next morning that there's beads of moisture on it but not the surrounding, non treated areas. Now ask yourself? Is it a good idea to introduce that into the engine? If it's a four stroke, now it's all through the oil and everything, two stroke, it's in the crank forever eating the main bearings. First thing I do when I get a can of wd40 is throw that shit in the trash. It won't even work for a door hinge. We all do things that later we look back and cringe at, part of the learning experience we call life
Thank you for the insightful comment I agree with you that wd40 is not cream of the crop. I do hesitate to say that the residue left over from me wiping it clean with a clean rag will contaminate the engine oil In this 4stroke enough to warrant engine failure. But that’s what a break in service is for so I will inspect the oil and if there is clear signs of contamination in the oil I will post and eat my words gladly, I’m definitely curious about this experiment I’ll let you know what I find!
@@Titan_MX_Customs awesome. I've done it before, not the exact experiment but left it on sometime, came back to moisture puddled on it. And I agree about screw the factory recommended stuff as it's a scam but my best solution would be mineral spirits as it completely evaporates.i mean, if you paint immediately after you wiped a car down in it, it has to be residual free. And it's way cheaper than wd40. It brake cleaner for that matter as it's designed to give a good initial cut for bedding rotors, at least I would think it would do the same for work at setting rings. But if I had the pick for the last wipe before lube on piston install, it would be mineral spirits
You are correct but this specific bolt is paired with a lock nut to keep it at a specific length along with being pressed against the axle blocks so as long as everything is properly torqued to spec there should be no issue with the chain tensioner bolt
Good catch! The clutch basket should be replaced or filed down. At the time of disassembly the clutch felt great and I currently can not afford a new clutch basket so in the time being I’m sticking with old reliable. Don’t worry it will be replaced soon!
Yes exactly, the best way is to bake the engine cases to around 250 degrees Fahrenheit that allows the aluminum to expand, combining that with a frozen bearing they should fall in. While installing bearings your main concern is making sure the bearings entry is level with the bearing housing, even if slightly off it can cause the bearing to seize thus damaging the housing. Very good question!
