Thank you so much. I now understand the difference between a base map and the tuning and refining that goes into making that base map better. And also appreciate you doing this in English which I’m guessing isn’t your first language! Just a random, funny question - does the speeduino ecu have an obd2 style port for your laptop to connect to?
Thank you for producing this series. It’s a big help and lots of important info in it. I hope that you get a lot of sponsorship and support for your work. Also love that you have an AE90. I love all Corollas but I have two Toyotas the generations after - SW20 MR2 and AE101 Corolla with the 4AFE and C52. I’m doing a lot of work with the 4AFE n/an and will see what results I can get with PerfExpert street dyno app, and how far I can push the stock ECU/rev limiter. :)
Thank you for producing this series. It’s a big help and lots of important info in it. I hope that you get a lot of sponsorship and support for your work. Also love that you have an AE90. I love all Corollas but I have two Toyotas the generations after - SW20 MR2 and AE101 Corolla with the 4AFE and C52. I’m doing a lot of work with the 4AFE n/an and will see what results I can get with PerfExpert street dyno app, and how far I can push the stock ECU/rev limiter. :)
I'm just doing some checking on my trigger wheel+cam wheel (subaru 6/7) setup. I'm cranking with injectors disconnected. Some indicators light up, the "No Sync" shows green. Does that mean it's good (green) or there is no sync (Bad) ? Btw, First time using a programmable ECU
if you are seeing rpm its already a good sign. usually when no sync lights up its not too good, though ifthere is only a crank trigger there is no synchronisation.
Correct me if I’m wrong. But this only applies to coil/coil on plug ignition. If you have old school distributor you cannot control ignition advance using this software; only by manual adjustment with a timing light. Can you still input the degrees of advance into the software? Would it help?
depends if you have an electronically controlled distributor you actually can as there is a timing reference to the ecu. If there is a REALLY old system, yes you are not able to control it with the ecu, but thats only on non-efi cars bacifally so only carburated. if you wouldnt have any reference to the ecu then it would not work no.
No problem its all good. There are multiple types. if every injector is wired to a different output its semi or sequential if two injectors each are wired to one output (so that they inject at the same time) then thats paired injection. and then there is batch injecttion where all injectors are wired to one output.
You can do a legit t51r mod if your compressor housing has some meat around the compressor wheel. Used a hole saw and cut down a few inches to reach the wheel then used a dremel wheel on the inside to cut slits and connect the two chambers.
Would this theory still work if the gap between the bolt hole and the bolt itself was well over 10 - 20 mm? lets say more along the lines of 50mm? The end is still plugged but just with a much larger gap.
ah might be true, though i doubt its like 20 percent as that would result in VERY rich mixtures probably washing the oil film off of the cylinders. the better way to do it would be, tuning the ignition timing to the correct values and reducing combustion temperatures through that.
@@throttlebuddies6356 20% normally under high load especially in aviation, in air-cooled engines it is nice to have CHT sensors (cylinder head temperature), 142c in the cylinder head is not uncommon they are hot
Ignition usually increases as u rev it. BUT I've seen tunes where from 500 rpms to 2500 it's say 20° like a quadrant. Then 2600-5000 is say 33°. Is that ok? To do quadrants?
@@enhancedphysique6452 no it should be very smooth and get progressively more advanced as the engine turns faster and the flamefront burns at the same speed therefore reaches the peak energy later the higher the engine revs thats why ignition advance has to be increased with more rpm
what do you mean exactly? i have a video online that shows how to do ignition tuning and how to properly time your engine with a timing light and a standalone
Ist es nicht eher andersrum, dass Absorptionsschalldämpfer durch die Wolle eher kaputt gehen kann? Im Reflektionsdämpfer ist doch eigentlich nichts drinne, außer reflektierende Kammern
ja und nein, bei billigen dämpfern und alten dämpern ists sicherlich so dass die über die zeit und vor allem mit so einer abstimmung "leer" werden aber das dauert auch seine zeit. bei einem kammerndämpfer "explodiert" der dämpfer wenns blöd läuft einach, und dazu kommt sowieso relativ wenig flammen effekt hinten an haha :D
@@byronboost actually no, on a journal bearing turbo, there is more load on the thrust washer and the compressor wheel can rotate on the shaft causing an imbalance
Great informative video, im debating on getting the maxpeedingrods 73 trim turbo but I messaged a selling and they said it can only handle 14.5 psi, im hoping for closer to 19 psi maybe 20, do you have any experience with their 73 trim?
Well what they are saying on their website and if they actually last are two different things. Ik running a 3582r at 20 psi but that already also has some shaft play after a few hundred kilometers but it also gets a lot of surge so not surprising. Id say you could try it but dont expect too too much at anything above wastegate pressure
@@sorinsop the injector size is correct. Its often the case that you have values over 100 especially when you dont have accurate data for dead times. And in forced induction applications you are pretty much always gonna have ve values above 100 since you are obviously forcing more air into the engine
Nice work. I need some help/ guidance setting up a v4.3 board on an RB25DET engine, I'm stuck. I don't have any instagram or Facebook accounts but I do have email and WhatsApp.
Ha ha .. the clip for the video .. I actually have a rod I kept that is s shaped in both directions (left to right and front to back) and it was from a 28psi spike 😅 , but I will say , it still drove another 8 miles to get me home with the bent rod 😅.. now ya know I am doing 2 bar , but I have been trying what we talked about and seams to be getting more spicy , but Deff needs to make det can b4 go too far .. but yeah, man , I love how ya always share the knowledge with the community .. and that ya still do 1.6 on speeduino 😅 cuz that what I run ... anyways peace and love brotha , keep it rad , stay safe , and build on .. l8r
as long as itsjust bent and didnt put a hole in the block its fine lol, yeah 2 bar on stock rods at lower rpm not that great of an idea lol. though it is posible to run that with a large turbo at high rpms. ive seen stock bottom end BP4Ws make 450 whp
@@throttlebuddies6356 I got lucky and did not hurt block ,but yeah now fully forged bottom end and port and polish head .. next Is heavy dbl springs so I have a dead line of 9k so I can safely set a 8500 limiter , and I got a custom intake and oversized tb, but my turbo manifold is not best at all , so that should be my next priority tbh .. but I did take your advice and dropped to 28psi (not quite the 25 u recommended but lol) and played with timing a degree or two , and you are deff right .. my timing is super conservative.. every degree I add I can almost say I feel the increase in torque lol... but yeah bro this series your doing is awesome for the community.. and hopefully it helps connect more of us miata/mx5 brethren .. maybe .. anyways .. I want to see a update on your builds brotha .. once you are fully settled into the new shop ..I think that would be a good vid for you to showcase some of your own work aswell as connect to maybe a wider community, cuz I feel your channel deff deserves to reach out and grow brotha .. peace and love bro or I will keep rambling lol (I'm ADHA my bad 🤭)
If the actuator preload was set wrong, this can happen. Also if you run the vacuum lines wrong to a controller. It’s exactly double which leads me to believe you weren’t getting a proper boost reference to the actuator. A 5 psi spring will be able to double to 10 psi. 10 psi can make about 20 psi. Ect. Last issue would be install error by clocking the turbo wrong and binding the gate actuator.
In this case reference was directly to compressor housing without any ebc etc. inbetween confirmed that this happened with two turbos. I would understand that this could happen if line was too long, leaky, plumbed incorrectly with a 4 port solenoid etc. but in this case was a new silicone line of about 20cm in length sooo yeah. Preload was as set by garrett and then reduced by myself to 2-3mm
Ha, amdisbest, Nick, has a video of an Audi 20 v EFR7163 with a speed sensor hole without the sensor installed thats precisely this, thanks for sharing the how to
4h ago is devious, nice video!!! I’m actually thinking of getting a bigger turbo for my 2002 20V 1.8t audi A3. I gotta give some love to some other stuff first but I can’t deny I wanna give it a bit more power
Have had a lot of experience with 1.8ts mamba does make some great hybrid turbos for the 1.8t plattform at a reasonable price if you dont wanna go for the g25 route
Ich finde deine Idee cool... Weißt du wie die Logik im close loop boost control ist im speeduino? Ich habe es probiert allerdings verstehe ich es nicht ganz. Wenn ich bevor der Turbo zu spoolen beginnt ein zu hohes Target boost habe dann beginnt er das PWM hoch zu schieben bis er auf 100% ist wenn dann der lader kommt habe ich natürlich zu viel Druck... Ich habe den Start duty auf 30% beispielsweise bis 3000 da ist er dann schon auf 100% weil er den Druck nicht erreicht. Bei 3500 habe ich start duty auf 20% da macht er ein überschwinger.
@@throttlebuddies6356 normalerweise tune ich Autos mit original Steuergerät... Dort legst du kein start duty an sondern max duty. Somit kannst du den Bereich so gut eingrenzen und sagen wenn der lader kommt max 30% danach kannst ihm ein bisschen Spielraum geben....
jo genau, das funktioniert bei besseren steuergeräten auch da kannst du dem steuergerät auch vorgeben bei welchem duty cycle welcher ladedruck anliegen soll wie bei einer ME 7.5 zum beispiel aber das geht beim speeduino nicht. meine empfehlung da ist eignetlich immer optn loop das funktioniert in der regel am besten ich hab mal in nürnberg gewohnt, wohne aber jetzt in griechenland und mache abstimmungen meistens remote, dafür aber weltweit :)
Месяц назад
I'm looking forward to this series! I'm definitely a beginner tuner and this info is super helpful
Hatte den so 5000km drin ungefàhr dann hab ich das auto verkauft lader war da noch gut kein öl verbrannt etc. hatte aber auch schon andere von denen die nich wirklich lang gehalten haben
@@throttlebuddies6356 I'm building a k20a3 with VTech locked it has vtc and I'm having a hard time trying to wire it to the speeduino and how to control it I've had some tell me you can only control it on closed loop Im very new to this it's my first ecu project been a V8 carb guy ally life (52) and trying to gain as much knowledge as I can but no info on k series just missing tooth crank sensor and one tooth cam please help maybe get me In the right direction if you can
@@charlestorruella8591 vtec in closed loop doesnt make much sense. Usually you have a table where you control it on open loop with set values depending on rpm and load (tps or map that is) if you want to send me a dm on insta, maybe ill be able to help you
id say there is not necesserely a "best" be all and end all, because most ecus offer different feautures at different price levels. while you could run this engine on a speeduino ECU at a lower budget, an ECUmaster EMU Black or a Maxxecu sport may have more features that you want such as electronic throttle bodies, EGT monitoring and tuning. and for modern cars (so not really in this case) you might want something with more canbus functionality and GDI capabilities. all in all its also kind of a balance of features, price, and what you need. If you for example build a driftcar a fueltech ecu might also be worth looking into, as it is basically an ECU integrated into a digital dash.
Heck yeah bro .. I'm down to be critiqued as I have built my car ground up myself and added a standalone and tuned it myself and have it dropped down to only 30psi atm , but I think this could be cool and I am always down with knowledge bombs ... peace and love bro ,keep it rad ,stay safe, and build on l8z famz and keep having fun brotha
Thx man. its not about critique only, i also would love to show really good tunes as an example, on how to do it right, many people can learn from that also! and it is interesting to see for other people aswell on how different cars need to be tuned.
@@throttlebuddies6356 definitely agree bro , and I am always down to learn .. knowledge is power .. and I am deff curious to see what others in different altitudes and climates have tuned as im at sea level on the coast in N.C. .. as have yet to have to alter my Baro or fueling due to any alt or changes , but I know it does affect the tune .. much respect brotha .. peace and love man .. ps if I get a praise I want to be roasted aswell 😂
Hi. Just a hunch but take your TPS plastic cover off and there should be a cylidrical rod with a flat side (like a normal potentiometer one) going into the TPS which has a flat side then two ears which are supposed to tension it. They snap off leaving lots of play = you can't set the TPS as per the manual. Pack the flat with something suitable for zero play. 2nd common thing is adjusting the idle / throttle stop and not the TPS. I would ignore the manual and do these steps: Drive car so it is properly warmed up then turn it off, remove TPS connector and bridge the idle circuit on the connector. Restart car (don't use any throttle while the car thinks it's idling), set the idle with the stop adjuster, turn car off. Connect test light or multimeter, whatever, across the TPS idle pins and adjust so it is activated for as short as possible while coming on 100% of the time at zero throttle. Sorry long comment :)
Nah the tps on mine is reading wierd values depending on how its mounted it only reads in liek 6.5 percent steps. I think im just gonna use a different one and be done with it lol
MaXpeedingRods just came out with ball bearing turbos! They are essentially just a Garrett GT series design, but with some nice added features. They have the forged billet compressor wheel, a lighter and allegedly higher quality compressor housing, a stainless turbine housing with V-band connections, an upgraded alloy turbine wheel, and allegedly upgraded piston rings. I did a tear down and I was fairly impressed. They are a bit over $600, so pricey for a budget option, but you can also get a 10% off discount anytime which makes them slightly more attractive. I agree with you that it is worth buying MXR over exactly comparable products for the support from the company, which at least does exist! I also think their billet wheels in general actually do have different geometry from the cast Wheels. While the blades have generally the same profile, the nose and overall profile of the center section is much thinner, allowing for a lot more airflow. I do think Pulsar is a generally attractive option, and this brings MXR up closer to their level. I will say as soon as you start getting closer to $1,000 a Borg Warner starts making a lot more sense, even if it's journal bearing. If you get closer to $2,000-3,000 the Borg Warner EFR series are the best period, though limited in max size. Still, with a coupon, hard to argue with a $100 turbo from MXR! Great video. :)
i mean for 600-800 bucks depending where you are located you can also buy a pulsar turbo wich are known to work really well but well se maybe i will get one at some point.
@@throttlebuddies6356 Yeah that's the dilemma! So far they have a GT2871, GT3071, and GT3076. I'm sure they'll do a GT3582 eventually. They end up coming in just under the typical Pulsar price with arguably comparable features, but it would be impossible for me to say one is better since so far I have experience with neither. About to test my GT3071, but not exactly torture test it. Wish I had a dyno I'd love to compare them back to back.
Issue is also no options for echausg housings. Kind of a dealbreaker in my opinion and the gt28 is just a journal bearing not even with a 360 degree thrust bearing and still is 600 bucks
@@throttlebuddies6356 Agreed that the lack of turbine housing options limits the applications. Unless you meant something else. The new GT28 is a ball bearing turbo. You have to go to the Sport Turbo category and not the "For Sport Universal Turbo" section. It's there for $591 before coupon and lists all the same benefits as the two new GT30 ball bearing turbos, just without the V-band exhaust inlet and outlet. I'd have to have one in hand to verify all the claims, but no reason to doubt. Is it worth it for a GT28? Probably not. It's a very strange compressor trim they chose as well. Even smaller than Garrett's smallest 48 trim. Really meant for a smaller engine pushing a lot of boost. I'll def be trying to test one out down the road.
Is the first time that I see someone build a "home made" stethoscope just to hear the pinging that occurs in a combustion chamber..!! Is a good way to optimice the spark table and not just guessing... regards from Mexico city
absolutely! works great as you can hear. but plenty of people have done it and shown on youtube. though many people use it wrong. it is VERY important to get the placement right, otherwise you will only hear very heavy knock
